Edward Hall
Member
Great images and insight.
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The problem is that there's an ugly film look and a beautiful film look, and lots of stuff inbetween. Merely shooting on 35mm doesn't automatically improve the lighting, composition, camerawork, lenses, focus, art direction, and all the other things that make an image great.The truth of the matter is that everything ever shot on any flavor of film, be it 8mm or IMAX has the "film look". What I think the original poster wants to achieve is a professional "Hollywood" look, which of course varies from something like 28-Days Later (on one end of the spectrum) to Interstellar (on the other).
The problem is that there's an ugly film look and a beautiful film look, and lots of stuff inbetween.
They also had Dariusz Wolski as their cinematographer, Stefan Sonnenfeld and Steve Nakamura as their colorists, and Charles Gibson as their lead VFX supervisor. I would point out that once technical tools get to a certain level, it's the human talent that makes things what they are.
I asked this same question 20+ years ago in a suite at the American Film Market to the President of DeLuxe Labs, Bud Stone. He said it was lighting.
The FILM LOOK such a marverlous one, especially if we look at IMAX pictures " interstellar" but what does it really all come down to. I see most you put the way its composed and frame rate
the unfortunate thing is film is a coffee table book we have it, but not a lot of it and its nice to look at once in awhile. So when we examine this under the microscope our audience really doesn't care. It all full circles to the Story... Our backbone what we have been doing before we could speak.:lurk5:
Exactly. "Film look" is a set of parameters that the right tools can easily achieve (24p, mostly, but also wide dynamic range, some grain, 180 degree shutter). "Hollywood look" is where talent comes in, and requires expert lighting, production design, shot composition, camera movement, etc.I disagree.
I just watched Die Hard, a very "filmic" movie (shot on film with great lighting), on a TV with the 'fames added feature' switched on and it looked exactly like video.
It's probably mentioned here all ready (I just skimmed through the thred) you need to start with red log film. It's quite important. If you leave the r3d world with redgamma3 redgamma3. you got a very good color accurate image if you dialed in your white balance etc. but filmlook you are trying to achieve is probably not looking anything like it. I see redgamma3 as kind of looking out trough a clean window... it's very accurate and shows everything outside in perfect color... But if you instead use redlog film and then do all your grading in log and as a final step of your grading you flipp over to lin then you got closer to how the guys in hollywood are doing it. Hench the name I suppose, "redlogfilm"
If you do not want to grade anything more than within redcine I sugest that you set the dial to redlogfilm and then you use the curves to get where you want in term of contrast etc. I would not push to much of a S curve instead try to be more linear with your grading and in the end you apply some of the "alchemy" slider and add film grain, slide your bottom saturation slider (the one next to alchemy) and also apply unsarp mask to tase.. doing it that route usually works quite splendid, atleast for me.
So a normal error I see people do is to use red gamma 3 redgamma 3 and then complain about the stuff looking like video.. well it does as video looks very much like looking out the window...
The above is how I look at these things people here probably have other opions but to me, grading in anything than log is just plain ugly. There is ways of using luts to flip redgamma3 material back to log before you grade but thats involving risks of getting things wrong and ending up with flat blacks, mids, or highlights or all of those. It's actually quite amazing to see how even experienced colorist can run of in the craziest workflows when dealing with r3d's and then complain about the source...
If you do not want to grade anything more than within redcine I sugest that you set the dial to redlogfilm and then you use the curves to get where you want in term of contrast etc.
The HD master I did of Die Hard for Blu-ray looks just like the film, and Jan De Bont was totally satisfied with the look.I just watched Die Hard, a very "filmic" movie (shot on film with great lighting), on a TV with the 'fames added feature' switched on and it looked exactly like video.
I think when people say "the film look," what they really mean is "a very polished, skillful, Hollywood-style look."Exactly. "Film look" is a set of parameters that the right tools can easily achieve (24p, mostly, but also wide dynamic range, some grain, 180 degree shutter). "Hollywood look" is where talent comes in, and requires expert lighting, production design, shot composition, camera movement, etc.
I think he meant the "smooth motion" setting on the TV which generates additional artificial frames to make 24fps look like 60fps. Everything shown with that setting turned on will look like a soap opera, regardless of how well it was shot.The HD master I did of Die Hard for Blu-ray looks just like the film, and Jan De Bont was totally satisfied with the look.
Exactly. The "very polished, skillful, Hollywood-style look" is a direct result of talent and years of experience. The "film look" is pretty much anything shot in 24fps with a 180 degree shutter. Give a 4-year-old kid a film camera and the footage will look like film, regardless of lighting or composition or lack of talent.I think when people say "the film look," what they really mean is "a very polished, skillful, Hollywood-style look."
Technology writer Mark Schubin has written about the difference between the look of digital and the look of film longer than anybody I know, and he makes some good points in this article:
http://www.schubincafe.com/2002/02/04/the-other-tech/
"The biggest differences between film and video or movies and television may have nothing to do with technology — and everything to do with technique."
Jake, is there a particular LUT in the Resolve set that you'd recommend to use as Cineon-Rec709?.Please do not do this. RLF has a Cineon gamma curve and as such, by arbitrarily increasing contrast you will never get a proper image. The only way to correctly work with RLF is to use a proper Cineon to Rec-709 LUT. Because RCX doesn't allow use of LUTs, then the only proper way left is to grade in RCX with RG4.
All that can be done totally manually and looks fine. All you need is a modicum of skill and experience. There's no need to use a LUT just to get from Cineon, Log space, or RedLogFilm to Rec709. Just turn the knobs until you like the picture.Jake, is there a particular LUT in the Resolve set that you'd recommend to use as Cineon-Rec709?.
All that can be done totally manually and looks fine. All you need is a modicum of skill and experience. There's no need to use a LUT just to get from Cineon, Log space, or RedLogFilm to Rec709. Just turn the knobs until you like the picture.
That's normally what I do, but I have a lot of respect for Jake's work so I thought I would ask.All that can be done totally manually and looks fine. All you need is a modicum of skill and experience. There's no need to use a LUT just to get from Cineon, Log space, or RedLogFilm to Rec709. Just turn the knobs until you like the picture.