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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Scarlet and Epic BUILD 4 BETA

Sorry Its been mentioned in previous posts but is anyone finding issues with attaching anything HDMI to new build camera?

My Scarlet works intermittently after the update.

Only tested on a Panny 42 and Samsung 22.

Worked fine prior to update.
 
Antony M said:
Trent, I don't think a screen shot would show what I mean. I will take a quick video and put the link here.

The link is: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9ir5Y7x-wE&feature=youtu.be
Click to expand...

Thanks for the video. That helped explain your problem.

This is a current limitation. We cannot always show the 1:1 zoom area on the edge of the format for all monitors.

What you are seeing here is that we put the 1:1 area as close to the right edge as we can on the LCD. You can see on the 1:1 magnify indicator (at the top left of the monitor) that the current view is close to where you want it, but it does not reach the edge. You can also see that we have an "AF" flag pointing that the AF window is off screen to the right.

Note: if you have an HDMI or HDSI monitor setup to 1080p you will be able to see the region of interest.

Without going into too much detail the problem is that we are showing the center crop of the same base image on all the monitors (where each monitor is showing the pixels 1:1 and each monitor has a different resolution). The resolution of the base image we use for the 1:1 magnify zoom is close to 1080p (to accommodate the HDMI and HDSDI monitors).
 
Bug: When I activate the color bars test signal I loose control of the camera. Touch Screen nor Side Handle work. Upon reboot monitor shows white frame -- replugging the monitor bring back the image. Anyone from Red want the Log File for this?

Anyone else have this issue?
 
Last edited:
Jack Shanahan said:
Bug: When I activate the color bars test signal I loose control of the camera. Touch Screen nor Side Handle work. Upon reboot monitor shows white frame -- replugging the monitor bring back the image. Anyone from Red want the Log File for this?

Anyone else have this issue?
Click to expand...

Please open a support ticket and send in your log.
 
I have found that it is not a good idea to initiate a Black Shade Calibration when there are battery saving settings enabled. When my calibration is finished, my screen is white lines and doesn't respond to touch. Everything returns to normal when I restart.

BTW - a really good feature in future builds would be to allow different energy settings based on whether you are running on battery vs. AC power (much like a laptop allows).
 
Eric Santiago said:
Sorry Its been mentioned in previous posts but is anyone finding issues with attaching anything HDMI to new build camera?

My Scarlet works intermittently after the update.

Only tested on a Panny 42 and Samsung 22.

Worked fine prior to update.
Click to expand...

I have noticed that the HDMI output takes a long time to show up. (This only tested so far with one 6' HDMI cable to a TV Logic 5" monitor, however, what is repeatable is this:

Upon bootup, EVF/LCD shows up at normal 8-10 seconds, however, HDMI takes another 15-25 seconds to finally kick in. This also occurs when changing anything where the camera needs to update the HDMI output (such as resolution or Magnify mode).

If I was unaware, I might not wait long enough and reboot the camera thinking there was some other problem, but everything functions fine, I just have to wait extra long now for the HDMI out to appear. I'm sure there is an easy fix, but curious if anyone else is seeing this?
 
I played with it for quite a bit but just went back to the release build. Things I found:

- Going to 1:1 zoom takes really long and goes with a lot of flickering, sometimes a fading mesh on the screen, sometimes previous zoom images, etc. I recently looked at the zoom feature on a Red One and it was so quick! Would be really nice if the Epic was like the Red One in that regard because going to 1:1 and back is something I use a lot for.

- It did lock up a couple of times with a completely black screen

- When in high speed recording and the power save mode kicks in, the monitor becomes completely overexposed making it impossible to use for setup.

- Sleep mode should be a menu item or button. When you're waiting for something to happen you want to put the camera into sleep mode now, not in a few minutes.
 
Jack Shanahan said:
Matthew,

Where is the best place to send logs?
Click to expand...

Right now, the best way to do it is to open a ticket here: http://www.red.com/contact_us and send a quick description of the issue. Once you are contacted you can send in a log. This way the issues and logs are tracked together throughout our system.

We'll hopefully make the log submittal a one-step operation soon for bug reports like this.
 
sander kamp said:
- Sleep mode should be a menu item or button. When you're waiting for something to happen you want to put the camera into sleep mode now, not in a few minutes.
Click to expand...

There are key assignable key actions to put the camera into its sleep modes.

'Power Save: Enter Low Power Preview'
'Power Save: Enter Sleep'
 
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sander kamp said:
- When in high speed recording and the power save mode kicks in, the monitor becomes completely overexposed making it impossible to use for setup.
Click to expand...

New in 4.0.3, the camera will attempt to maintain the 'user' shutter speed set whenever the frame-rate has changed.

Check your shutter speed setting. If it is shown in yellow, it indicates that the setting being used is different than the 'user' setting.

When the camera enters low power preview, the frame-rate is reduced and the 'user' shutter speed is likely being restored.
 
Problem with Speed Ramping

Problem with Speed Ramping

I tried a test with speed ramping. I ramped from 25 fps to 120 fps in 4K. After I triggered the ramp and stopped the camera there was an orange circle under Ramp and the camera sort-of locked up. You could move around the menus but I could not toggle out of ramping mode or change other settings. I tried to shut the camera down and it was locked as well until I removed the batteries. Then I realized the SSD card is not showing up and I can not format it. It is not showing up on my mac with card reader either. HELP!
 
Thanks for the update. It does look that it will be a major improvement on Epic and Scarlet.
I wanted to mention (don't know whether someone has posted this already), on our Epic-X ISO settings don't work after magnify has been used. I can change the rating to which ever number I want from the list but it doesn't affect the image displayed on LCD. Only after the reboot when changing ISO setting the image also changes.
 
Trent Lillehaugen said:
Thanks for the video. That helped explain your problem.

This is a current limitation. We cannot always show the 1:1 zoom area on the edge of the format for all monitors.

What you are seeing here is that we put the 1:1 area as close to the right edge as we can on the LCD. You can see on the 1:1 magnify indicator (at the top left of the monitor) that the current view is close to where you want it, but it does not reach the edge. You can also see that we have an "AF" flag pointing that the AF window is off screen to the right.

Note: if you have an HDMI or HDSI monitor setup to 1080p you will be able to see the region of interest.

Without going into too much detail the problem is that we are showing the center crop of the same base image on all the monitors (where each monitor is showing the pixels 1:1 and each monitor has a different resolution). The resolution of the base image we use for the 1:1 magnify zoom is close to 1080p (to accommodate the HDMI and HDSDI monitors).
Click to expand...

Hi Trent, thank you for your ongoing help.

One step further, one step back though :-)

I have now tested this with an HDMI monitor connected.

Sure enough, as you say, I can now see the region of interest.

However I now have a fault whereby approx 25-30% of the time that I use the button to switch in/out of 1:1 mode, the HDMI output goes blank.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Antony
 
Sounds nice.
Recently I did some slomo stuff (250-300fps) with the EPIC and had a lot of flickering - altough I have used tungsten halogen light.

The Red ONE has a Phase-Setting for this issue, right? Would be great for EPIC, too.
 
Where might I find the force preset 1080p HD-SDI for this? I need to be able to use menu's on my DP6 monitor.
 
Trent,

Is it possible RED will publish a RED 101 on frame summing? Personally I'd like to know more about it and what's actually happening and see some scenarios.

What exactly is going on in summing mode? Is it adding up to 16 frames (exposures) to fake leaving the shutter open for 16 full seconds?

Thanks in advance.
 
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