OFFHOLLYWOOD HOTLINK + HOT TAP + HOTBOX R/S WIFI for RED DSMC cameras

[Ryan Sauve]

Once you see what you can do with electronic stills glass and FOOLCONTROL iOS - you will go out and buy more stills glass. I'm still trying to calm down after Mikael showed me some new stuff today that exploded my little head.

This is why I'm ditching my Rokinons cine lenses, Zeiss ZE still lenses and loading up on Sigma ART glass. I'm losing the ability to pull Iris but with my type of shooting and clients, it's not required. I'll rent when those cases come up.

 

[Mike P.]

Once you see what you can do with electronic stills glass and FOOLCONTROL iOS - you will go out and buy more stills glass. I'm still trying to calm down after Mikael showed me some new stuff today that exploded my little head.

YESSssssssssss... Now if only there was a handle attachable finger-wheel somehow...

Another thing Mark, is there a reason the lemo power-input isn't on the *side* of the Hot-Tap? Seems to me, with the back of the hot-tap against the camera, it'd make more sense (leave less catchable cables that can be tighter to the camera) if the lemo came out the side... or am I missing something?

100% - we are doing it in the RED booth all day, everyday during IBC. The HOTLINK uses an insanely little amount of power. We ran it on a bench in the early days with two double A batteries.

Excellent. Yeah, I know the ProIO's output is like 1.5amp sustained, and the HotLink is 1.2amp, so I just wanted to make sure it was solid as 20% delta is kinda close...

 

[Mark L. Pederson]

This is why I'm ditching my Rokinons cine lenses, Zeiss ZE still lenses and loading up on Sigma ART glass. I'm losing the ability to pull Iris but with my type of shooting and clients, it's not required. I'll rent when those cases come up.

Seriously ... I saw the future today. The future of lens control is going to be much more leveraged by software. Period. Doesn't eliminate the 1st AC - what it does - in fact - is EMPOWER the SMART, FORWARD-THINKING 1st AC.

 

[Mark L. Pederson]

Another thing Mark, is there a reason the lemo power-input isn't on the *side* of the Hot-Tap? Seems to me, with the back of the hot-tap against the camera, it'd make more sense (leave less catchable cables that can be tighter to the camera) if the lemo came out the side... or am I missing something?

yeah ... I know ... but that would have made it THICKER and I said no. The HOTTAP is something that you need to hold in your hand and attach to a camera to appreciate.

Pics do not do it justice. Come to RED booth and touch it.

 

[Eryc Tramonn]

Once you see what you can do with electronic stills glass and FOOLCONTROL iOS - you will go out and buy more stills glass. I'm still trying to calm down after Mikael showed me some new stuff today that exploded my little head.

Ordered.

I was sold on FOOLCONTROL from the moment I saw it, and had a strong premonition it would ultimately offer extensive lens support capability. Like others I'm sure, I have been watching and plotting how the functionality will be incorporated into, and further my workflow. Provided we can avoid interference, HOTLINK will prove quite useful for UAV ops.

 

[Mike P.]

I want to... I really do... but I'm nowhere close to IBC... Really makes it difficult to decide between HotLink + HotTap separately or HotBox w/Wifi.... Gugh...

I think the only thing missing from fool control is monitoring... Even a delayed image for framing (like the GoPro) would be better than reading the histogram like the matrix -- 'I don't even see the histogram any more; all I see is blonde, brunette, redhead...'

This is why I'm ditching my Rokinons cine lenses, Zeiss ZE still lenses and loading up on Sigma ART glass. I'm losing the ability to pull Iris but with my type of shooting and clients, it's not required. I'll rent when those cases come up.

Oddly enough, I bought an Sigma 18-35 ART yesterday after sitting on the fence about the rehoused versions for months.

 

[Mikael Lubtchansky]

Once you see what you can do with electronic stills glass and FOOLCONTROL iOS - you will go out and buy more stills glass. I'm still trying to calm down after Mikael showed me some new stuff today that exploded my little head.

Don't worry mark the same focus knob will also work with PL glass and all the lens markerd discs for RPP, RPZ, Angenieux, Cooke, Zeiss, and Leica will come pre-installed with it

I will also work with my friend Samuel from RVZ Paris, the best rental place for RED, and with all the foolcolor iOS users to build a strong lens library for Canon and Nikon discs... as you can create your own customs disc marks and export them by email to share with other devices and people.

 

[Eryc Tramonn]

Don't worry mark the same focus knob will also work with PL glass and all the lens markerd discs for RPP, RPZ, Angenieux, Cooke, Zeiss, and Leica will come pre-installed with it

I will also work with my friend Samuel from RVZ Paris, the best rental place for RED, and with all the foolcolor iOS users to build a strong lens library for Canon and Nikon discs... as you can create your own customs disc marks and export them by email to share with other devices and people.

Holy crap. :-D

Good job, dude. It was only a matter of time. Glad you made that time sooner than later.

 

[Isaac Marchionna]

Mark, walk me through this purchase since I couldn't get anyone on the phone.

So as much as I want the HotTap, I think it'd be too much cabling vs the anton bauer splitter I'm currently using on top of wanting to power the HotLink.

For the Hotlink it comes with the cabling necessary to communicate with the Epic brain, correct? So I'd need a P-Tap to 2-pin Lemo to power the Link off my battery plate/splitter, correct?

I'd love the hotbox but I never power more than 2-3 devices off the battery (minus the brain) at once. Though it looks fantastic. Let me know so I can place an order.

 

[Uros Zuraj]

cant decide between HotBox or HotLink!!!

 

[Elizabeth Lowrey]

Okay, so I'm trying to decide whether I need to buy an extra power cable to go with the HOTLINK, and you are forewarned I know nothing about electricity except that if supposedly involves flows of electrons and polarity. I already have a USB battery powering a Nyrius Pro wireless transmitter. The battery has only one 5V (1 amp) output. Is there such a thing as a splitter that would allow me to power BOTH the HOTLINK and the transmitter off the same USB 5V output of that battery? Or would that create some kind of "backflow" situation that would be dangerous? Or would it depend on whether the amperage draw of both components combined exceeds the 1 amp rating of the output?

 

[Curran Giddens]

Yep. I was thinking about the Rokinons now that the 50mm is out. But now I'm thinking Canon L's all the way. I just ordered the Hotlink.... Next up is that Canon EF 100mm macro with IS.

This is why I'm ditching my Rokinons cine lenses, Zeiss ZE still lenses and loading up on Sigma ART glass. I'm losing the ability to pull Iris but with my type of shooting and clients, it's not required. I'll rent when those cases come up.

 

[nick allsop]

If you power the hot tap via the quick plate module are you limited by the amount of assessories you can use? e.g cine tape, bolt, LCS, hot link etc.

 

[Antony Newman]

I guess the reason my back-ordered RED-LINK DEVE kit never made an appearance was RED really wanted really slick 3rd party solutions in our hands.

Now that the 5G Broadcom chip is out .. are we inching towards Micro-OLED plated semi-transparent goggles with HD content wirelessly streamed from the GIG-E port?

Love that Red + OH + FC are all working together.

AJ

 

[Jack Allred]

Ordered Hotlink! Been following topic for a while. Excited! Great design. Hoping I'm included on early Oct shipment...

 

[Elizabeth Lowrey]

I just ordered the HOTLINK to make sure I'm in by Friday. I didn't order a power cable, however, because I have some outstanding issues.

First, if anyone can answer my question at post #111, that would help. But the bigger issue for me is that I will be using the HOTLINK a lot when my camera is mounted to my Letus Helix gimbal, and the 2-pin power outputs on the Helix are "US standard" not "ARRI standard". See this link:

http://help.letusdirect.com/customer/portal/articles/1636798-what-is-the-power-standard-on-the-helix-

So Mark, my question is whether you can customize one of your 2-pin to 2-pin power cables (http://offhollywoodny.com/store/power-cables/4504-2/) so that the polarity is reversed at each end of the cable. If so, I would like to add one of those cables to my order to ship when the HOTLINK itself ships. Much thanks to you for bringing this great product to REDusers.

 

[Mark L. Pederson]

Okay, so I'm trying to decide whether I need to buy an extra power cable to go with the HOTLINK, and you are forewarned I know nothing about electricity except that if supposedly involves flows of electrons and polarity. I already have a USB battery powering a Nyrius Pro wireless transmitter. The battery has only one 5V (1 amp) output. Is there such a thing as a splitter that would allow me to power BOTH the HOTLINK and the transmitter off the same USB 5V output of that battery? Or would that create some kind of "backflow" situation that would be dangerous? Or would it depend on whether the amperage draw of both components combined exceeds the 1 amp rating of the output?

I can easily make a solution for this - and it should be no problem - but I need to get someone to loan me a Nyrius Pro to test - are they at IBC? If so - can you reach out and tell them to come find me in the RED booth?

 

[Mark L. Pederson]

I just ordered the HOTLINK to make sure I'm in by Friday. I didn't order a power cable, however, because I have some outstanding issues.

First, if anyone can answer my question at post #111, that would help. But the bigger issue for me is that I will be using the HOTLINK a lot when my camera is mounted to my Letus Helix gimbal, and the 2-pin power outputs on the Helix are "US standard" not "ARRI standard". See this link:

http://help.letusdirect.com/customer/portal/articles/1636798-what-is-the-power-standard-on-the-helix-

So Mark, my question is whether you can customize one of your 2-pin to 2-pin power cables (http://offhollywoodny.com/store/power-cables/4504-2/) so that the polarity is reversed at each end of the cable. If so, I would like to add one of those cables to my order to ship when the HOTLINK itself ships. Much thanks to you for bringing this great product to REDusers.

I am going to add PIN OUTS for every single cable in the store - AND the exact connector name - after IBC.

The ONLY reason we are even selling cables is that as a rental house - we are CONSTANTLY fixing and rebuilding poorly made, cheap cables - and finally we had enough. We aren't making much money at all on our cables - we just felt that someone needed to sell high quality, zero compromise cables. They are all hand made and tested in NYC - not in our shop - but with our electronics partners who are way more skilled than anyone I have ever made cables with.

I will ADD BarTech/HELIX reversed polarity cables to the store it's not a problem - it just sucks because people are gonna blow stuff up if they confuse the cables.

I think I might make all the "US Standard" (aka the STUPID polarity) - (PIN 1 = POWER) cables another color.

It really pisses me off that a few companies are choosing "US Standard" - as it's NOT a real-world standard - and it's totally goofy to call PIN 1 = GND as "ARRI standard". It's not just Teradek and RED and ARRI that have GND on PIN 1 - it's the military and medical industries. PIN 1 = GND is the "real-world" standard - not just the "ARRI standard".

Until I have a chance to add the STUPID version of the 2-pin to 2-pin to the store - just order as-is - and I will email everyone with a 2-pin to 2-pin ordered and confirm polarity before shipping.

 

[Mark L. Pederson]

Mark, walk me through this purchase since I couldn't get anyone on the phone.

So as much as I want the HotTap, I think it'd be too much cabling vs the anton bauer splitter I'm currently using on top of wanting to power the HotLink.

For the Hotlink it comes with the cabling necessary to communicate with the Epic brain, correct? So I'd need a P-Tap to 2-pin Lemo to power the Link off my battery plate/splitter, correct?

I'd love the hotbox but I never power more than 2-3 devices off the battery (minus the brain) at once. Though it looks fantastic. Let me know so I can place an order.

Sorry - the OFFHOLLYWOOD staff is doing their best to field calls. I'm gonna publish a nice FAQ soon.

The HOTLINK comes with the DSMC Serial Cable - this is just a 4pin 00 LEMO to 4pin 0B LEMO cable. Wired pin to pin (1-1, 2-2, etc.) - this connects to the CTRL port on DSMC cameras.

You need to power the HOTLINK with another cable that you already own or ned to buy. If you are powering from P-Tap - you want a P-Tap ro 2-pin LEMO cable - buy ours - or buy one from Teradek or LAIRD. Ours are better

 

[Patrick Grossien]

Did anyone call out for a group buy?