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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Scarlet and Epic BUILD 4 BETA

My ISO changes do not update through the LCD or bomb EVF. I think it has something to do with pixel zoom switching. A factory reset solved the problem then it popped back up after a couple of pixel zooms (no it is not set to raw preview). I thought it might have something to do with the power save low power and sleep settings but have since switched them all off. Playback displays ISO correctly and changes give feedback. I thought i may have been missing something but this seems to be a problem that happened on earlier firmwares. Also the monitor keeps switching back to 30 hertz. I'd send a log but wont have access to a redmag reader for a few days while i'm out of the studio.
The brain really heats up during timelapse- it hit 75 very quickly. It would be nice to have a separate overriding setting for timelapse fan speed as I set my record speed quite low.

I'm pretty happy with the new update apart from not seeing an anamorphic mode on this little scarlet- is this something I can look forward to in the future?
cheers,
 
Finally updated, first thing I noticed was the nice look on the 9" monitor. Great work guys! Very appreciative of this build and all the work that went into it. Thanks a heap!

Oh, and the Redmote now automatically connects all by itself when removed from the camera. Thanks!
 
On 1:1 zoom : I've been dragging the box from the red '1:1 mode icon' on the left to where I want it on the screen, but that only lets me position it within the confines of the 1:1 viewport.
How do you guys get the 1:1 viewport to the top right of a 4K frame , for example ?

Something else I've been experimenting with: I think that the auto focus is more accurate while in the zoomed in mode. In other words, if the box is left in the same position on some scene detail, doing a 'single' focus gets better results while zoomed in.
Can someone confirm this ?

Focus accuracy can be limited by the lens motor backlash. I don't know if the Red focus method takes backlash into account, but I would think that it does. Brings up a feature request I think everybody would also agree on, a new focus mode called 'fine' that you use if your focus is already very close. In this focus mode, the lens would only move very small amounts to try to get better. This focus mode could be used while the camera is rolling and not ruin the shot with wild focus racking.
What do you think ?

6K cameras will need ultra critical focus, just saying!
 
...a new focus mode called 'fine' that you use if your focus is already very close. In this focus mode, the lens would only move very small amounts to try to get better. This focus mode could be used while the camera is rolling and not ruin the shot with wild focus racking.

+ 1
 
On 1:1 zoom : I've been dragging the box from the red '1:1 mode icon' on the left to where I want it on the screen, but that only lets me position it within the confines of the 1:1 viewport.
How do you guys get the 1:1 viewport to the top right of a 4K frame , for example ?

Something else I've been experimenting with: I think that the auto focus is more accurate while in the zoomed in mode. In other words, if the box is left in the same position on some scene detail, doing a 'single' focus gets better results while zoomed in.
Can someone confirm this ?

Focus accuracy can be limited by the lens motor backlash. I don't know if the Red focus method takes backlash into account, but I would think that it does. Brings up a feature request I think everybody would also agree on, a new focus mode called 'fine' that you use if your focus is already very close. In this focus mode, the lens would only move very small amounts to try to get better. This focus mode could be used while the camera is rolling and not ruin the shot with wild focus racking.
What do you think ?

6K cameras will need ultra critical focus, just saying!

You can't change the 1:1 window location after entering 1:1. When you enter 1:1 mode it will use the current AF window and try to center on it. That is, you set up your region of interest first and then enter 1:1.
 
Small bug I'm experiencing.

I've assigned the playback action to one of the user keys on the side of 5 inch touch screen. When enabled it flips to playback mode but the screen is broken up with distinct vertical banding & picture "break up". Anyone else getting this ?
 
Small bug I'm experiencing.

I've assigned the playback action to one of the user keys on the side of 5 inch touch screen. When enabled it flips to playback mode but the screen is broken up with distinct vertical banding & picture "break up". Anyone else getting this ?
Try unplugging and replugging the touchLCD, it usually fixes this. I've seen this issue a few times when switching back to live view after playback.
 
@ Trent. re: (quote: You can't change the 1:1 window location after entering 1:1. When you enter 1:1 mode it will use the current AF window and try to center on it. That is, you set up your region of interest first and then enter 1:1.).

It would be a very great addition in the future, if this were to be possible. :-)
 
Hmmm ... when i do the 1:1 zoom, it zooms to the center and I see a little square in the top left with a small red square - but I can't figure out how to move that little square around so i can do a zoom off center? I have both a touch screen, a side handle and am on PL lenses. Anyone that can give more or less exact instructions for the slightly daft, on how to move around that little box, would be much appreciated ;)

Patrick,

It took me ages to work out what was wrong/how to use it too.

1. You can only move the square BEFORE you zoom to 1:1
2. You have to have AF Confirm turned on.
3. It takes me about 20 attempts to get the square to move because the screen is rubbish!!! (Or there is a firmware bug)

Hope this helps.

Maybe I should film a mini-tutorial?

Antony
 
Patrick,

It took me ages to work out what was wrong/how to use it too.

1. You can only move the square BEFORE you zoom to 1:1
2. You have to have AF Confirm turned on.
3. It takes me about 20 attempts to get the square to move because the screen is rubbish!!! (Or there is a firmware bug)

Hope this helps.

Maybe I should film a mini-tutorial?

Antony

It shouldn't be difficult to move the AF window. My guess is you are trying to drag the AF window. To move the AF window you simply press and hold on the screen where you want it to move to. You can drag after the hold, but it is the 2 second hold that triggers the move.

Alternately, you can use the keys on the side handle or REDmote. First press down to highlight the AF window. Then use the keys to move it to its new location. Press enter to finalize the new location.
 
It shouldn't be difficult to move the AF window. My guess is you are trying to drag the AF window. To move the AF window you simply press and hold on the screen where you want it to move to. You can drag after the hold, but it is the 2 second hold that triggers the move...

You are absolutely correct. I was trying to drag the AF window. Seemed the obvious thing to do. The 2 second hold works.

However, one bug I have just found (now that I can get the square to move) is that, when the square is near the centre of the frame, the 1:1 is of the correct object, but if the square is to the right side, the 1:1 is of a part of the scene way to the left.
 
You are absolutely correct. I was trying to drag the AF window. Seemed the obvious thing to do. The 2 second hold works.

However, one bug I have just found (now that I can get the square to move) is that, when the square is near the centre of the frame, the 1:1 is of the correct object, but if the square is to the right side, the 1:1 is of a part of the scene way to the left.

Can you take a screen shot of what you are seeing and post it?
 
You are absolutely correct. I was trying to drag the AF window. Seemed the obvious thing to do. The 2 second hold works.

However, one bug I have just found (now that I can get the square to move) is that, when the square is near the centre of the frame, the 1:1 is of the correct object, but if the square is to the right side, the 1:1 is of a part of the scene way to the left.

Any chance your screen is on flip mode???
 
Hey Trent, would it be possible to have a "video mode" that uses RAW instead of IRE? Realistically just the 18% Green and/or "Skin Tone" Pink is adequate. I know it fluctuates based on the ISO/grade, but if you light to expose for the sensor's RAW capture, wouldn't the resultant image be optimal? Sure you can switch between modes to get a reference point, but it'd be faster if you could toggle enable/disable for an 18%/SkinTone indicator in Exposure mode...

Either that, or is it possible to have a different mode on a different display (e.g. Exposure Mode on EVF, and Video/Zebra Mode on monitor)?
 
when i playback and then go back into live mode, it does some weird stuff to the monitor.. I need to unplug the monitor cable and replug it in order to make the weird vertical lines go away..


EDIT.. I see this bug is known and reported.. so NM
 
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You are absolutely correct. I was trying to drag the AF window. Seemed the obvious thing to do. The 2 second hold works.

However, one bug I have just found (now that I can get the square to move) is that, when the square is near the centre of the frame, the 1:1 is of the correct object, but if the square is to the right side, the 1:1 is of a part of the scene way to the left.

Same here, unaccurate when on the right or far right of the screen , it misses the box. Same on the far left. Works perfect around the middle of
the sensor.
 
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