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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

RED FOCUS ships tomorrow....

WoW! Sweeties baby!
Jim! Thanks so much for update, may I know when can I order it on store?

Cheers & have wonderful day
 
sorry bad news i screwed up the date... it wont be online tomorrow....

the RED FOCUS is in the store now :)

heh heh heh.

I guess this is what Jim had in mind when he spoke of not mentioning new products (ok ok, the Focus *was* talked about, long ago) until they're in stock and ready to ship in bulk :-)

I approve!

Now I'm looking forward to the day when you start a new thread... 'Scarlet ships tomorrow...'

Thanks

Mike
 
Here is the draft Manual in case anyone is interested and should answer some of the straggling questions still looming.

Release manual go in the support section on RED.COM later today.

http://red.cachefly.net/REDFocus_draft.pdf
 
Hi Red Team! I Ordered 4 already, may I know this is the stock or shall I need to wait for long time?
Please advice, billion thanks...
 
Hi - Nice to see this precision tool available..

How often is back focus adjustment intended to be done,? What gives away to maybe an untrained eye that backfocus is necessary?

Just when the markings on the lens do not match the real focusing distance?

Thanks
 
A good indication that your back focus is off is that your lens can't reach infinity focus. And/or your focus marks don't coincide with the distance that they're actually focusing on. There are other things, but those are the two big ones. Sometimes if it's off, it can feel like you just can't hit focus at all, no matter what you do.

If you have a diascope or similar device, it's best to check your back focus when prepping for any shoot. I also prefer to check it routinely if the camera is undergoing a lot of environmental shifts or if environmental conditions have changed a lot since the last time you checked. In other words, it may be just fine at indoor room temps, but if you take it out into sub freezing cold, there could be a problem. Same with taking it out into scorching desert heat.
 
I do agree with Jeff. All the digital cameras are the same, you just can't control the environment temp. I have been using Null Target for long time, I think Red Focus and Null Target are pretty useful ,but you really can't tell if the back focus is ACCUATED or not on Red One. The matter of LCD resolution, your eyes, your experiences...could be a lot of issue. I always adjust the backfocus a few time before the focus pullers are satisfied. If there are numbers on it, that maybe more helpful on set. I think each Red camera should come with a Red Focus.
 
Thanks guys - super helpful - !
 
How is Red Focus calibrated?

Hi Greg,

Since it's a projection device I assume that it's a light source, reticle and lens. So I would think that you would use an autocollimator to bounce an image off the reticle at infinity focus and adjust the lens untill that image is sharp in the eyepiece of the autocollimator. An autocollimator like a Richter or whatever kind allows you to view thru the reticle at a sorce infinity focus for a calibration check of the collimator itself. We use to use the teriminator of a half moon as it was bright and sharp.
Or mayby the reticle and lens are mounted in the housing and a magnifyig telescope is monted on the rear of the housing and focused on the reticle amd the lens is adjusted while viewing something far enough away to simulate infinity. After which the light source and diffusion (if any) would be imstalled and the rear cap put on.
 
Looks like I'm going to be buying a RED Focus after all.. The IB/E NULL Lens is not compatible with EPIC. It physically will not fit as the well into the sensor narrows too drastically. Bummer.. The NULL system works quite well, if only it would fit. I'm now curious to know if the Optimator would have any issues like the NULL system? Optimator is a great product too. It's cross reticle with numbered markings can be handy and the Pro model with the micrometer is a must if you're setting FFD on a camera that would require shims.
 
I love to have Red Focus but I have just blown my budget on lenses :) My method is lowtech but is pretty good. I just make sure lens makrings and my tape measure line up on the distance we currently are shooting. If I have cm precition on 4-5m I'm pretty happy :)
 
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