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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Quickplate V-Lock Battery module ready to ship

Jarred - I am more than happy to hate d-taps. LOL I am just wanting to find the cable that connects my Quickplate V-Lock , which I just ordered, to my Redrock Remote FF. :smiley:
 
Hmmm... I have been experimenting with the FF unit with the d-tap cable running from my current RED v-mount plate (the belt clip style which isn't convenient for this usage). But, while that is going on, the camera itself is being powered by a separate Redvolt.

Does your experience suggest that a Brick doesn't have enough juice to run the camera and the RRM FF? Does the FF Base Station draw that much?

A RedBrick simultaneously powers my Epic, RR MicroRemote, and Paralinx Arrow+ with no problems so far.
 
I have never had any V-Lock batteries, but I see it come up all the time with lights and other accessories. For this module, is the Red Brick the best purchase? Are there any other recommended batteries? I apologize for the newbie question. I have been using RedVolts only since I bought my Epic at the end of 2011, but I understand now why some folks prefer the longer life of the bricks.
 
I have never had any V-Lock batteries, but I see it come up all the time with lights and other accessories. For this module, is the Red Brick the best purchase? Are there any other recommended batteries? I apologize for the newbie question. I have been using RedVolts only since I bought my Epic at the end of 2011, but I understand now why some folks prefer the longer life of the bricks.


V-Mounts are pretty much the "industry standard" powering brick battery on productions. Anton Baur Gold Mounts are also out there a bunch.

The allure of V-Mounts is that you can get them in a variety of sizes and capacities. The Red Bricks for instance are 140 watt hour batteries, which is about 2 hours and 15 minutes of camera up time. Great if you need the camera up and running a lot, but the trade off comes in weight.

The allure of the REDVOLTS is obviously their small size and weight, however, they won't keep your camera on more than around 25 minutes. They do pop right into the DSMC Side Handle, which keeps the camera really small.

There's another option that gives you about an hour and 20-ish minutes of runtime and that's the REDVOLT XL at 90 watt hours.

With the Dual REDVOLT Module two REDVOLTs will provide around an hour of runtime. With the Quad REDVOLT Module you get about 2 hours of uptime with 4x REDVOLTs or about 3 hours with 2x REDVOLT XLs.

Lots of powering options within the Red system.
 
Terry, no, it's just that the +1 Module doesn't like something about how much voltage the FF draws. So... I connect the Teradek to the +1 module Aux out, the RRM FF to the D-Tap on the battery. Then camera, Teradek & FF are all running off of 1 Switronix 95wh Brick. Runs solid.

I'm hoping that the new V plate will power both the Teradek and the FF via Lemos.
 
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Sounds reassuring. Thanks. What cable are you using to connect v-mount to the RR MicroRemote?

Let me preface with the disclaimer that I mean no disrespect to Red's stance on DTAP, but I'm currently using a v-mount from another manufacturer which offers DTAP out since all of my accessories came with DTAP cables, including the MicroRemote.

Switching to the Red solution would predicate building custom cables. I'm sure Terry West would be happy to oblige. Or perhaps Red would consider offering cables for the MicroRemote, the ParaLinx, the DP7... I suspect these are common accessories for many owner/operators.
 
Ordered. Thanks RED. Looking forward to having this on my Pro I/O module with AC available to pop in for a quick backup.

the page for this unit says +1 module and rear module, but does not say it will work with pro IO, is this a mistake or does it not work with prIO?
 
Let me preface with the disclaimer that I mean no disrespect to Red's stance on DTAP, but I'm currently using a v-mount from another manufacturer which offers DTAP out since all of my accessories came with DTAP cables, including the MicroRemote.

Switching to the Red solution would predicate building custom cables. I'm sure Terry West would be happy to oblige. Or perhaps Red would consider offering cables for the MicroRemote, the ParaLinx, the DP7... I suspect these are common accessories for many owner/operators.

I honestly don't have any feeling whatsoever about what kind of power outlet to use, in general. (I don't know why d-tap is so despised at RED but I really don't care to debate it, either.) However, this particular module meets my needs perfectly and so I want to find the cable that will connect it to my RR MicroRemote FF. It's that simple. :-)
 
I don't work for Red, so take this with a grain of salt, but I think I have some insight why D-Tap isn't the most desirable solution.

D-Tap connectors have been around for a while and their popularity likely stems from being extremely inexpensive to manufacture.

However, as Brett mentioned you can smush them in backwards and they can break easily. Also, in a loose socket, they can slide out real easy. Not ideal on set really.

Based on the other equipment Red makes, they don't like stuff that breaks easily. They went with military grade LEMO connectors because well..... They are very strong and lock in place.

It's as simple as that really.
 
Sooooo... :smiley: ... the lemo to lemo cable I'll need to go from this module to RR RemoteFF? Anyone?? LOL
 
As I said earlier, ordered because it is an awesome piece of gear, and I'll also do anything to eliminate as many cables as possible to have a slick looking camera, yet I still wish for a design that could allow for the mount to hung really low, at bottom of camera, so that when the V-Lock battery is in place would be at the same hight of the actual body and not stand so tall over it... ;)
 
everyone should hate d-taps :)

This is the piece of gear I have really needed for a long time... BUT... what on earth are we supposed to do with all our accessories that functions via d-tap?

To be able to use this I now I have a feeling that I will need to make a whole bunch of custom cables... I have a 2 month feature coming up in Thailand over oct and nov, but have no idea if this is gonna function with all the gear from the rental house in thailand...
 
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