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** EDIT ** - I've added a post summarizing my findings with all of the sample videos and images here:
http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?122074-First-Look-Interchangeable-OLPF-on-Dragon&p=1433752&viewfull=1#post1433752
Good evening everybody. I zipped down to Red today to take an early look at the new Interchangeable OLPF for Dragon.
For those who don't know exactly what an OLPF is, I'll write up a quick rundown here.
An OLPF (Optical Low Pass Filter) is an Anti-Aliasing filter that is positioned between the lens and sensor. Dragon is a very light sensitive, high resolution, and small pixel pitch CMOS Bayer Pattern Sensor. The inclusion of the OLPF is there to minimize or eliminate Aliasing, Color Moire, and False Color by removing the highest frequency detail and ever so slightly "softening" the image. Additionally, often OLPF design typically includes several other layers that provide an Anti-Reflective Coating, an Infrared Coating, and Infrared Absorbtion Glass. These additional coatings and layers depending on the OLPF design itself block light hitting the sensor to a degree.
Red has been working on an Interchangeable OLPF system that provides a flexible solution for users who desire certain things like better low light performance or better overall color performance. Everything here comes with a cost, which I'll explain in a second.
First up, let's talk about what you'll need to swap out the OLPF.
Swapping the OLPF: Recommended Tools
Here's a list of few things you'll want:
- A generally clean working area (a place where it's not very dusty filled with stray particles)
- T-20 Torx Driver (for the DSMC Lens Mount)
- T-6 Torx Driver (for the OLPF)
- Your desired OLPF
- A flashlight
- A hand blower
** Note that the new Sidewinder Multi-Tool has all of the necessary Torx Drivers for this procedure.
Swapping the OLPF: Procedure
Note that each OLPF Module is labelled with it's name on the front face of the OLPF Frame.
Here's pretty much the order of operations to swap out the OLPF:
- Power down the camera brain and bring it to a clean working area
- Gather all tools and the OLPF you desire to install/swap
- Using the T-20 Torx unistall your DSMC Lens Mount and place it to the side
- I recommend keeping the camera on a flat surface or level, meaning not tilted (to protect for loosened bolts entering the sensor box)
- Next, using the T-6 Torx Driver remove the currently installed OLPF - (Be mindful of the T-6 Torx Bolts, they are tiny)
- The OLPF will slightly pop out due to the rubber gasket, so it should be fairly simple to remove
- While the OLPF is removed inspect the sensor box for any stray particles
- If there are particles found use the hand blower to remove them - (The sensor itself is covered by transparent optical glass and protects it)
- Find the OLPF you want to install and inspect it with the flashlight as well, blow away any particles if any are present
- Insert the OLPF with the OLPF Name Text facing right side up if you are looking directly at the camera
- Clockwise from the upper-left insert each T-6 Torx Bolt and gently begin threading it - go all the way around
- Then tighten to "firm" each T-6 Bolt, do not over tighten, just a twist until secure
- Reattach the DSMC Lens Mount and in the same Clockwise pattern install and tight the T-20 Bolts.
- Power up the Dragon Brain and in Menu>Settings>Maintenance>OLPF select the OLPF you have just installed:
Boom you're done. Pretty straight forward. 8 bolts total. Took me about 2-3 minutes on my first attempt and I was taking my time inspecting things.
Some Thoughts on the OLPFs
First, if you haven't already, check out my notes here about the two currently available OLPFs:
http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?112230-the-New-Dragon-OLPF
I'm doing some "knee deep testing" this weekend, but it looks like everything is the way it appears in the examples found there in terms of the differences between the V1 and V2 OLPFs. Which we should now call by their proper names.
So here are my personal thoughts on all of these options.
Skin Tone - Highlight OLPF - Produces the highest quality image out of Dragon at the cost of approximately 1.3 stops of light across the calibration range, essentially causing more texture at higher ISO ratings. It produces the least artifacts, best possible color reproduction, best highlight retention, and best skin tones out of all of the OLPF options. You do not need IR protection using Neutral Density filters with the SKT OLPF.
Low Light Optimized OLPF - Better for low light shooting as it allows for about 1.3 stops more sensitivity across the calibration range compared to the Skin Tone - Highlight OLPF but can exhibit some artifacts. Mainly on clipped highlights, like a flashlight in frame, you can experience an "orb" floating around the source. Additionally the less agressive coatings on the LLO OLPF provide similar artifacts that are familiar to those who have worked with Mysterium-X before in the form of the smaller aperture hot highlight "red dot pattern". You do not need IR protection when using ND Filters and that's where it is different from Mysterium-X.
Dragon Standard OLPF - This is currently being developed, however, it's going to land in the middle between the SKT and LLO OLPFs in terms of sensitivity. You will likely also not need IR protection when using ND Filters with this particular OLPF.
IR Color OLPF - Produces Color IR images.
IR Monochrome OLPF - Produces Black and White IR images.
Underwater OLPF - Tuned to produce high quality color images for under sea shooting.
Monochrome OLPF - The Monochrome OLPF.
There's also a few more OLPF options that have been hinted at for more advanced styles of shooting or perhaps development of specific OLPFs for aesthetic choices. What's been talked about thus far is primarily and Optical Clear and the potential of a Low Contrast OLPF, which are both exciting to me.
Another possibility I can see is a Motion Mount Optimized OLPF that would basically be more or less an Optical Clear with a special arrangment of birefringent plates that essentially makes the camera more sensitive to light and the IR is blocked by the Motion Mount itself.
Time will tell where all of this goes and develops, but there's a lot of potential for customizing the camera for the way you want to shoot with it to get the desired image quality you're after.
For me personally, the STH OLPF will be on my Dragon the vast majority of the time. However, this weekend I'll be testing both available OLPFs pretty thoroughly.
http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?122074-First-Look-Interchangeable-OLPF-on-Dragon&p=1433752&viewfull=1#post1433752
Good evening everybody. I zipped down to Red today to take an early look at the new Interchangeable OLPF for Dragon.
For those who don't know exactly what an OLPF is, I'll write up a quick rundown here.
An OLPF (Optical Low Pass Filter) is an Anti-Aliasing filter that is positioned between the lens and sensor. Dragon is a very light sensitive, high resolution, and small pixel pitch CMOS Bayer Pattern Sensor. The inclusion of the OLPF is there to minimize or eliminate Aliasing, Color Moire, and False Color by removing the highest frequency detail and ever so slightly "softening" the image. Additionally, often OLPF design typically includes several other layers that provide an Anti-Reflective Coating, an Infrared Coating, and Infrared Absorbtion Glass. These additional coatings and layers depending on the OLPF design itself block light hitting the sensor to a degree.
Red has been working on an Interchangeable OLPF system that provides a flexible solution for users who desire certain things like better low light performance or better overall color performance. Everything here comes with a cost, which I'll explain in a second.
First up, let's talk about what you'll need to swap out the OLPF.
Swapping the OLPF: Recommended Tools
Here's a list of few things you'll want:
- A generally clean working area (a place where it's not very dusty filled with stray particles)
- T-20 Torx Driver (for the DSMC Lens Mount)
- T-6 Torx Driver (for the OLPF)
- Your desired OLPF
- A flashlight
- A hand blower
** Note that the new Sidewinder Multi-Tool has all of the necessary Torx Drivers for this procedure.
Swapping the OLPF: Procedure
Note that each OLPF Module is labelled with it's name on the front face of the OLPF Frame.
Here's pretty much the order of operations to swap out the OLPF:
- Power down the camera brain and bring it to a clean working area
- Gather all tools and the OLPF you desire to install/swap
- Using the T-20 Torx unistall your DSMC Lens Mount and place it to the side
- I recommend keeping the camera on a flat surface or level, meaning not tilted (to protect for loosened bolts entering the sensor box)
- Next, using the T-6 Torx Driver remove the currently installed OLPF - (Be mindful of the T-6 Torx Bolts, they are tiny)
- The OLPF will slightly pop out due to the rubber gasket, so it should be fairly simple to remove
- While the OLPF is removed inspect the sensor box for any stray particles
- If there are particles found use the hand blower to remove them - (The sensor itself is covered by transparent optical glass and protects it)
- Find the OLPF you want to install and inspect it with the flashlight as well, blow away any particles if any are present
- Insert the OLPF with the OLPF Name Text facing right side up if you are looking directly at the camera
- Clockwise from the upper-left insert each T-6 Torx Bolt and gently begin threading it - go all the way around
- Then tighten to "firm" each T-6 Bolt, do not over tighten, just a twist until secure
- Reattach the DSMC Lens Mount and in the same Clockwise pattern install and tight the T-20 Bolts.
- Power up the Dragon Brain and in Menu>Settings>Maintenance>OLPF select the OLPF you have just installed:
Boom you're done. Pretty straight forward. 8 bolts total. Took me about 2-3 minutes on my first attempt and I was taking my time inspecting things.
Some Thoughts on the OLPFs
First, if you haven't already, check out my notes here about the two currently available OLPFs:
http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?112230-the-New-Dragon-OLPF
I'm doing some "knee deep testing" this weekend, but it looks like everything is the way it appears in the examples found there in terms of the differences between the V1 and V2 OLPFs. Which we should now call by their proper names.
So here are my personal thoughts on all of these options.
Skin Tone - Highlight OLPF - Produces the highest quality image out of Dragon at the cost of approximately 1.3 stops of light across the calibration range, essentially causing more texture at higher ISO ratings. It produces the least artifacts, best possible color reproduction, best highlight retention, and best skin tones out of all of the OLPF options. You do not need IR protection using Neutral Density filters with the SKT OLPF.
Low Light Optimized OLPF - Better for low light shooting as it allows for about 1.3 stops more sensitivity across the calibration range compared to the Skin Tone - Highlight OLPF but can exhibit some artifacts. Mainly on clipped highlights, like a flashlight in frame, you can experience an "orb" floating around the source. Additionally the less agressive coatings on the LLO OLPF provide similar artifacts that are familiar to those who have worked with Mysterium-X before in the form of the smaller aperture hot highlight "red dot pattern". You do not need IR protection when using ND Filters and that's where it is different from Mysterium-X.
Dragon Standard OLPF - This is currently being developed, however, it's going to land in the middle between the SKT and LLO OLPFs in terms of sensitivity. You will likely also not need IR protection when using ND Filters with this particular OLPF.
IR Color OLPF - Produces Color IR images.
IR Monochrome OLPF - Produces Black and White IR images.
Underwater OLPF - Tuned to produce high quality color images for under sea shooting.
Monochrome OLPF - The Monochrome OLPF.
There's also a few more OLPF options that have been hinted at for more advanced styles of shooting or perhaps development of specific OLPFs for aesthetic choices. What's been talked about thus far is primarily and Optical Clear and the potential of a Low Contrast OLPF, which are both exciting to me.
Another possibility I can see is a Motion Mount Optimized OLPF that would basically be more or less an Optical Clear with a special arrangment of birefringent plates that essentially makes the camera more sensitive to light and the IR is blocked by the Motion Mount itself.
Time will tell where all of this goes and develops, but there's a lot of potential for customizing the camera for the way you want to shoot with it to get the desired image quality you're after.
For me personally, the STH OLPF will be on my Dragon the vast majority of the time. However, this weekend I'll be testing both available OLPFs pretty thoroughly.
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