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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Epic Q&A

Quick question, not sure if its possible to answer this one now but I was wondering what the module adapter looks like?

I always thought it would just be a simple plug on but reading the clarification on stages and so on, there's a module adapter that comes with the stages


side note: thanks to all of the M owners for the info their passing along, helps make this wait so much more bearable and even more exciting
 
Hi

Im Working for a company where we need a high res and high FPS
I have seen the specs and looks like you can do 5K at 120FPS?

Has anyone been using the camera like this?

so can I have 120 14MP images a second? I herd that it can maybe do more in a burst mode? any info about this would be great.

Thanks
 
C Petch @ MB said:
Hi

Im Working for a company where we need a high res and high FPS
I have seen the specs and looks like you can do 5K at 120FPS?

Has anyone been using the camera like this?

so can I have 120 14MP images a second? I herd that it can maybe do more in a burst mode? any info about this would be great.

Thanks
Click to expand...


Yes it works great. We shot a lot of material at 120 fps 5K - and not in burst mode - just happily filming like normal.
http://vimeo.com/21215828

Mike
 
Mike Seymour said:
Yes it works great. We shot a lot of material at 120 fps 5K - and not in burst mode - just happily filming like normal.
http://vimeo.com/21215828

Mike
Click to expand...
Thanks mike,

Have you tried pulling raw still images from video?
Would they compare to a 14MP still form a Nikon D3 for example?
Any one got examples?

we would be shooting 3 to 5 second of footage and want to get the highest frame rate and resolution possible just want to know the capabilities.
currently using a range of Phantom high speed cameras for 1000FPS at 1080
and nikon D3 at 9FPS , 14MP(5K) images

So the epic beats the FPS of the nikon but is a Raw still from Epic's video comparable to a 14mp Still?


Thanks for the time an the answers.
 
Imran Farouk said:
Quick question, not sure if its possible to answer this one now but I was wondering what the module adapter looks like?
Click to expand...

The module adapter is about 7/8" thick off of the back of the camera. It essentially serves [as far as I can tell] as a housing for the inter-module quick release system. It also has five 1/4-20 mounting points on the top to mount the ones on the top of the Epic body.

C Petch @ MB said:
Have you tried pulling raw still images from video?
Would they compare to a 14MP still form a Nikon D3 for example?
Any one got examples?

we would be shooting 3 to 5 second of footage and want to get the highest frame rate and resolution possible just want to know the capabilities.
currently using a range of Phantom high speed cameras for 1000FPS at 1080
and nikon D3 at 9FPS , 14MP(5K) images

So the epic beats the FPS of the nikon but is a Raw still from Epic's video comparable to a 14mp Still?


Thanks for the time an the answers.
Click to expand...

At 5K FF [up to 96 frames per second], the resolution is 5,120 x 2,700 or 13.824 megapixels.

At 5K 2.40 [up to 120 frames per second], the resolution is 5,120 x 2,134 or 10.926 megapixels.

Don't directly compare "megapixels" from the Epic to still cameras without considering the different aspect ratios.

I've pulled more than ten thousand R3D RAW stills from footage on the movie I'm working on - you will be thrilled, trust me.

The OLPF on the Epic is tuned for motion as well as stills. In other words, it will appear very slightly "softer" than a frame from a camera dedicated only to stills. Even with that in mind, the camera will still out-resolve nearly any lens that you put on it.

There are many R3D stills available from the Epic across different forums... I recommend that you download some and see for yourself.
 
At some point there was mentioned the possibility of a 1080FF mode- meaning that the full sensor area (or close to it) would be used, debayered, and scaled to 1080 and recorded on the media (as opposed to windowed recording). Is this currently enabled?
 
It is not yet enabled in camera but you can record great 1080P out the HD-SDI to any number of recording options.

Jim

Eric Haase said:
At some point there was mentioned the possibility of a 1080FF mode- meaning that the full sensor area (or close to it) would be used, debayered, and scaled to 1080 and recorded on the media (as opposed to windowed recording). Is this currently enabled?
Click to expand...
 
Ops got blocked for the @ MB on my name.

Thanks for the message really helped.

Ive got the redcineX and some R3D still and video off the boards.
I see what your saying, zooming in the images get blurry before they pixelate.

still 120 frames at that res would really help the testing we do.

Do you know if the camera has Burst stills mode? any specs on that yet?

Thanks again

Christopher Petch
Photographer @ www.martin-baker.co.uk
 
Christopher,
If you work out of MB in Higher Denham then you're not far (5 miles) from RED Europe at Pinewood. They have an Epic-M there and if you ask Alan Piper <alanp@red.com> nicely he might let you have a quick hands-on test.
 
Last edited:
no. Nor does any camera as the sound would not match the vision. 5 second of speaking = 5 sec audio and nearly 25 sec of vision.
Or am i missing something ??

Mike
 
Sidehandle Lock?

Sidehandle Lock?

Any idea if you can lock the buttons on the side handle like you can lock the screen? DP on this shoot keeps bumping the user buttons on the side handle. It'd be great to be able to lock all settings, since there are so many ways to change them, so nothings gets bumped. We were shooting 48 frames and someone bumped something and it went to 60, no one noticed at camera.
 
When I get my EPIC will there be any way for me to be able to still use my RED RAID or will I have to use the SSD
 
What is the fastest shutter speed for the Epic and Scarlet? The online tech specs don't list it, although they do mention:

"EPIC is engineered to be a DSMC™ (Digital Still & Motion Camera), a camera that excels in both worlds ... by design."

So, I would expect it to be at least on par with a high end DSLR for freezing action (1/8000 sec.) and depth of field control with ultra fast lenses (although ND filters can help, I'd rather have the control without changing filters).

I want to treat them as still cameras with the fastest motor drives on the planet! Compose and shoot continuously and never ever miss the shot.
 
Tyler Goeckner-Zoeller said:
Any idea if you can lock the buttons on the side handle like you can lock the screen?
Click to expand...

Currently no.

You can lock the REDmotes with a switch.
Martin Ubilluz said:
When I get my EPIC will there be any way for me to be able to still use my RED RAID or will I have to use the SSD
Click to expand...

There has been conflicting information on this front. Jarred posted a firm "no" a few weeks ago, stating that RED Drive owners could trade in for a 50% credit towards SSDs. That said, Ted has been quoted in an interview at NAB a few days ago stating that RED Drives would be usable with an adapter cable. Awaiting clarification.

George Wilcox said:
What is the fastest shutter speed for the Epic and Scarlet?
Click to expand...

Currently 1/8000th.
 
When using HDRx - what have you noticed in the qualitative difference between "dialing" a lower amount of dynamic range as opposed to a higher amount? I am assuming it wil be mostly in the motion, however in your production experiences what is the asthetic sweet spot?
 
For HDR, I recommend setting the offset to the next highest stop that you need to save all detail. In other words, if you need .5 stops more in the highlights, use +1. If you need 1 stop more in the highlights, use +2. If you need 2.3 stops more in the highlights, use +3. Rinse, lather, repeat. This will result in the least variance in motion blur between your two exposures. Even more simply put, don't set it to "+6" when all you need is "+1".

How should you judge this? Simple. Turn false color exposure on at your normal exposure. Note your stop. Stop down until the clipping that you are concerned about goes away. Note how many stops you stopped down. Round up to the nearest stop and set your HDR value. Return to your normal/original exposure and go bananas.
 
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