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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

EPIC FAN NOISE - HEARTBREAKING DURING INTERVIEW

Patrick,

great idea! are you not worried that the fanblades are a little exposed thou? maybe you want to add some sort of aluminum grill on top of the fan to protect it.. anything can happen on set, you know..

cheers!
 
Nick Noev said:
Patrick,

great idea! are you not worried that the fanblades are a little exposed thou? maybe you want to add some sort of aluminum grill on top of the fan to protect it.. anything can happen on set, you know..

cheers!
Click to expand...

You are right we are working to make a cover. What you see is the first prototype. Going through a feature film test as we speak.

Pat
 
Patrick Tresch said:
Hello Antti,

Thanks for your comments.

Would you be ready to loose the front right (above the side handle) mounting points?

Pat
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Patrick, I am not sure which mounting points you are referring to. The lone ones at the corners on the top and front of the plate (which are not aligned with the three mounting point rows) could be disgarded, I think.
 
Patrick Tresch said:
What you see is the first prototype. Going through a feature film test as we speak.

Pat
Click to expand...

Also, I think that a 4-pin hirose input would be a better and more universal DC input connector. Wireless mic receivers, on-board proxy recorders, audio mixers etc. often have this type of DC input. A power distribution solution with hirose outputs would be more compact and have locking and shielded connectors. I would prefer that to a 4 output d-tap splitter cable. Perhaps you could bundle a d-tap - 4 pin hirose cable with the FanPlate?
 
I hear you Antti. I always preferred the D-tap as it's more common on battery plates or even on the battery.

Here a brief picture of what holes would be dead.

Pat
 

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Patrick Tresch said:
I hear you Antti. I always preferred the D-tap as it's more common on battery plates or even on the battery.

Here a brief picture of what holes would be dead.

Pat
Click to expand...

Thanks for the picture!

I have a side handle permanently mounted on my camera so the loss of these particular mounting holes wouldn't be a big issue for me. Additional mounting holes in the back would be more useful to me.

I've been looking at this power distribution box: http://www.reddingaudio.com/cable-techniques-battery-bud.php

If you could integrate that same functionality in the back of your FanPlate, it would be even more awesome. Actually I was almost ready to buy the innocinema Apollo top plate, but in the work I do, the fan noise is a bigger issue than the placement of the connectors.
 
Hey Patrick,

may i suggest make a new thread for the fanplate? do yourself a favor and move the discussion there..

my 2c.
 
Ever heard of Ice?

Ice?!?!? Can't get it here. And why should I slap a piece of ice on my very expensive camera!?!?

Been a good learning experience. Red for me is now just for controlled TVC's and music videos. I will use another brand camera for documentary from now on.
 
Ruff said:
Ever heard of Ice? Ice?!?!? Can't get it here. And why should I slap a piece of ice on my very expensive camera!?!?
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I'm almost positive that ice is available anywhere in the civilized world, at least in the city. If you have to go to a remote place, it's possible to store ice for long periods of time, provided you have enough insulation.

Soderbergh and others have used ice packs to keep the cameras cooled down in the past:

img_2399.jpg


I think it's fair to say that Red has done a herculean job at reducing the problem and making the camera run cooler and quieter today than ever before. I also think the moment you're moving massive 4K data streams in and out of a camera body, the chips are going to get hot, no matter what you do. The Sony F65 is also reportedly the noisiest camera they've made so far (though I haven't heard it myself yet). And I've certainly been involved in shoots where lesser cameras have shut down due to heat problems.

Famously, DP Shane Hurlbutt has been able to shoot with the Canon EOS-7D by using a half-dozen bodies and then letting each one cool down after a 15-20 minute take. And that's definitely a camera that will overheat, especially shooting under desert conditions. (And it's far from 4K.)
 
I think Ice would'nt be the solution for the Epic as the body is farely to small. It could have been effective for the RED ONE but the Epic is another beast.

Pat
 
If people are putting dewey plastic bags of ice on top of their cameras and blocking that outlet vent, I do not feel quite so bad about turning a can of lens spray upside-down and giving the heatsink a few quick shots of liquid gas with the little tube every now and then. Could still be a warranty-breaker though. And please wear glasses if minded towards this trick. A reflected jet of liquid gas on an eye and it could be game over for eyesight in that eye.
 
Is there a heat sink inside the RED that is connected to the top?

If so, it would be possible to mount one of these onto the top, to give it a really effective heat sink:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118223

There's a little arm that runs over the base of the device with holes in each end that attach to a motherboard.

I've had a fan fail on one of these, and my CPU kept running cool without even needing the fan (so the fan would be removed in this use, of course).

Not the most elegant idea, but ... it's inexpensive.

If I have a spare Zalman lying around, I'll put one on top and monitor the sensor temperature with the REDmote.
 
Robert Hart said:
If people are putting dewey plastic bags of ice on top of their cameras and blocking that outlet vent...
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No, not on the vents, uh-uh. This would be a last-ditch effort if somebody ran into "leaf-blower mode," as described earlier in this discussion. Under real-world conditions, I don't think this happens very often.
 
I don't know if it's just my camera (Scarlet) but leaf blower mode is standard after about 20 mins of operation. They shouldn't have named the camera Scarlet....cos it seriously does have a fever. EPIC's don't seem to go 100% fan unless you block the vents with a sound recording decive (hehe, oops ;)
 
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