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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

DSMC v5.2.28 Release Build

Brant Hadfield said:
Ever since upgrading to this firmware, the camera's internal clock is resetting to 0 hours, Jan 1, 2010 after each power cycle. Scarlet X. This is with external AC power. This is new behavior happening since the upgrade from 3.x.
Click to expand...

Other people have reported this as well.

You should file a support ticket and send in a log file.


Battistella
 
Working with a Scarlet-D.
Is it me, or does black shading now have less latitude than the 5.2.22 build? Going from 1/48 to 1/96 now puts the E CAL to "yellow–". Previously, 1/96 would have been green. Would splitting the difference and doing a black shade at 1/72 allow me to volley between 1/48 and 1/96 while keeping the E CAL in the green?
 
Bill Stengel said:
Working with a Scarlet-D.
Is it me, or does black shading now have less latitude than the 5.2.22 build? Going from 1/48 to 1/96 now puts the E CAL to "yellow–". Previously, 1/96 would have been green. Would splitting the difference and doing a black shade at 1/72 allow me to volley between 1/48 and 1/96 while keeping the E CAL in the green?
Click to expand...

E Cal doesn't have anything to do with latitude. You should do a black shade when you change the shutter. Make sure you do this when the camera reaches operating temperature. You will get much cleaner blacks.
 
Sorry, Bob - not latitude per se, but how far you can go with a change in the shutter speed before tripping the E CAL indicator. The DSMC OPS Guide states there is a +/- 1/2sec of range in a calmap before needing to recalibrate. Am I interpreting this incorrectly?

As I said, with the previous build (the one my camera shipped with), It wouldn't stray from green when going from 1/48 to 1/96 but now it does. The way I've been working has been rather all over the place with constant shifts of frame rate and shutter speed, so I was surprised to see E CAL go yellow after updating to 5.2.28. I'll have to test to see what works best.

Bob Gundu said:
E Cal doesn't have anything to do with latitude. You should do a black shade when you change the shutter. Make sure you do this when the camera reaches operating temperature. You will get much cleaner blacks.
Click to expand...
 
Bill Stengel said:
Sorry, Bob - not latitude per se, but how far you can go with a change in the shutter speed before tripping the E CAL indicator. The DSMC OPS Guide states there is a +/- 1/2sec of range in a calmap before needing to recalibrate. Am I interpreting this incorrectly?

As I said, with the previous build (the one my camera shipped with), It wouldn't stray from green when going from 1/48 to 1/96 but now it does. The way I've been working has been rather all over the place with constant shifts of frame rate and shutter speed, so I was surprised to see E CAL go yellow after updating to 5.2.28. I'll have to test to see what works best.
Click to expand...

Good news is that you can store a few blackshades so you can flip quickly to the different rates.
 
Bill Stengel said:
Sorry, Bob - not latitude per se, but how far you can go with a change in the shutter speed before tripping the E CAL indicator. The DSMC OPS Guide states there is a +/- 1/2sec of range in a calmap before needing to recalibrate. Am I interpreting this incorrectly?

As I said, with the previous build (the one my camera shipped with), It wouldn't stray from green when going from 1/48 to 1/96 but now it does. The way I've been working has been rather all over the place with constant shifts of frame rate and shutter speed, so I was surprised to see E CAL go yellow after updating to 5.2.28. I'll have to test to see what works best.
Click to expand...

I've noticed the same thing. I've done a blackshade on two cameras @ timebase 47.95, shutter @ 48 and I get the yellow E., both while doing the blackshade and afterwards. Haven't gone back to the cameras in the last couple of days to follow up by shooting something. I don't remember this happening in previous builds.
 
Michael Tiemann said:
I suggest leaving D.E.B. where it belongs, which is in post. When shooting very red environments (such as sapele hardwood floors that read much more red than they do brown), the chatoyance (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chatoyancy) of the wood fools the camera into thinking its seeing a lot of red noise, when in fact it's a property of the material. D.E.B. softens that up way too much. D.E.B. should be an option when it's needed, and the DRAGON sensor should be aloud to speak for itself when called for.

sapele_title.jpg
Click to expand...

Michael,

This is not an issue in the soon to be released updated RedcineX Pro with some DEB improvements and tweaks Graeme has done. I cannot see a visual difference other than the red noise being gone. The red noise adds to the "color" of the wood floors without DEB, but that is misleading as it's strictly red noise. Both are equally detailed and no loss of wood pattern from what I can tell.

DEBonVsOff.jpg

DEBonVsOffWood.jpg
 
In playback mode on my previous build the "cursor" or "the selected menu input" would stay where I put it even if I jumped to next clip. Now in 5.2.28 It always defaults to be at the top wich in this case is the iso. Before I could go down from iso to the clips playback line and hit left and wright to jump to next clip and left to jump to previos...Now I cant in 5.2.28
 
Matt Ryan said:
Michael,

This is not an issue in the soon to be released updated RedcineX Pro with some DEB improvements and tweaks Graeme has done. I cannot see a visual difference other than the red noise being gone. The red noise adds to the "color" of the wood floors without DEB, but that is misleading as it's strictly red noise. Both are equally detailed and no loss of wood pattern from what I can tell.

DEBonVsOff.jpg

DEBonVsOffWood.jpg
Click to expand...

The problem is not so obvious in the place you zoomed in to. Check instead at the flooring, specifically the diamonds that lead to and are under the piano. At 1:1 you'll see a softening of the grain patterns when you turn on D.E.B.
 
Bob Gundu said:
E Cal doesn't have anything to do with latitude. You should do a black shade when you change the shutter. Make sure you do this when the camera reaches operating temperature. You will get much cleaner blacks.
Click to expand...
Is this the new reality of shooting in RED?
 
charles lim yi yong said:
Is this the new reality of shooting in RED?
Click to expand...

This is one of the fundamental concepts behind getting the highest quality material out of your Mysterium-X or Dragon camera. Always has been. Black Shading Calibration gives you an operational range for each calibration. For instance on Dragon a Black Shade at 1/48th will give you a range of 1/24th through about 1/144th of a second for exposure range. Which is pretty broad. Dragon is different as it can store up to 4 custom user Black Shades.

For those who are super picky or just know they use 3 or 4 shutter speeds, angles, exposure times you can just Black Shade at those and switch between them. My shoot yesterday was 1/48th, 1/120th, and 1/240th for instance.
 
Phil Holland said:
This is one of the fundamental concepts behind getting the highest quality material out of your Mysterium-X or Dragon camera. Always has been. Black Shading Calibration gives you an operational range for each calibration. For instance on Dragon a Black Shade at 1/48th will give you a range of 1/24th through about 1/144th of a second for exposure range. Which is pretty broad. Dragon is different as it can store up to 4 custom user Black Shades.

For those who are super picky or just know they use 3 or 4 shutter speeds, angles, exposure times you can just Black Shade at those and switch between them. My shoot yesterday was 1/48th, 1/120th, and 1/240th for instance.
Click to expand...

how we can change 1/50 time format on Black Shade Cal. page? angle guy here 1/48 1/100 makes me dizzy
 
Michael Tiemann said:
The problem is not so obvious in the place you zoomed in to. Check instead at the flooring, specifically the diamonds that lead to and are under the piano. At 1:1 you'll see a softening of the grain patterns when you turn on D.E.B.
Click to expand...

Not much difference at 100%... Don't mistake the noise as detail...

DEBonOff100.jpg
 
Hans von Sonntag said:
Since the name of the thread is "DSMC v5.2.28 Release Build" I have a question beyond DEB:

Has anyone else the feeling that booting time is considerably longer than before?

Thanks!

Hans
Click to expand...

Yes.

I mentioned this a while back, it's crept up to about 32 seconds with Dragon. I power and boot the camera and then start building it. By the time I have everything connected, lenses cables, etc, its usually up to temperature by then too.

It's a drag when you want to power down briefly and then restart. MX was very quick.

Battistella
 
Has anybody shot their Dragon in minus 5 degrees celsius and below? Does the camera need a lot more time to reach operating temperature?
 
Yes. I shot in minus 18 recently.

Yes, the camera needs a lot more time to get to temperature. When we had the time (which was not often) we would re-black balance in the extreme cold after the camera had been on for a while.

I took to having the AC's power it at the beginning of the day and leaving it on all day.

Impressive. Camera kept working. MoVI M10 would not work in these temperatures at all.
 
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