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VF | Brook's APU Battery Plates [IDX & AB, REDmote charging cable!]

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Longer cables will be available starting next week. I think we are going to offer 12", 24" and 36" to start. Pricing will be less than $100 (blame Lemo, not me).
As for custom logos on the battery plates.... we opted to skip that one due to the demand and desire to ship on time. BTW... we should have most everyone caught up to within our published lead time tomorrow.

As for motor/controller updates.... I'll get that up on the site asap. Not to spill too much but we are hiring a couple engineers and getting more machines to speed up the process.

Anyway to get a longer cable with a locking lemo female connector on one end so that we don't have to rewire the cab;e to the mount when going from on camera to shoulder mount config?

Thanks
Matt G
 
Hi Brook, can I set this V-mount to Paglock plate to the APU-IDX Battery Plate ? Or even better, Do you plan to do Paglock Plate ?

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Hey Tim,

the Hoodman for the 5.6" I got it form B&H here: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/749038-REG/Hoodman_H_R5_6_5_6_Monitor_Hood_for.html


What I use is a Pro-Totype Top mount that slides out a mount for the EVF, (see pics below)

TopMount.jpg


side-EVF.jpg


But you can use the one for sale at the RED store:

This one: http://www.red.com/store/rail-components/product/dsmc-top-mount-rod-compatible

TopMount_Rod.png
way cool now that it's done with it's service in Dubai I know a shoot in New York that could use one]
 
way cool now that it's done with it's service in Dubai I know a shoot in New York that could use one]

The prototype, how did it work out? Will it see more action in retail?

... ;)

I actually purchased this Pro-Totype cause I knew I would love it, not sure if and when it will make it to the store, but I'm positive Matt is working on something even cooler... ;)
 
Had to remove the battery plate and screw in the screws from the back, which negates using the quick release function of the plate, as the qr button will not clear the screw that i sunder it.

For all intents and purposes it is a semi permanent install.
 
Matt, we tested every one of the battery plates on an Epic-X before we boxed them up. If it is not fitting then I suggest you try loosening the screws and flipping the washers around so they all match. There is a slight bevel to the surface of the washer that makes the screws stay centered as they are tightened - if that bevel is towards the camera then the screws are able to shift around as they are tightened. You should not have to take the unit apart to mount it on the camera. Give us a call at the 888-459-8450 Monday morning if you are still having problems.
 
Curt, to be clear are you saying the slight beveled edge should face AWAY from the camera body?

I've done some experimenting and it does seem (on the SCARLET, at least) that the tolerances are extremely tight. Finger-tightening the screws leaves the plate with some wiggle, tightening it with an allen wrench makes it very difficult to get the lockbar to pop out.

Plate's working great, just wondering if it's possible this is more of an issue on SCARLETs.
 
I got my IDX Battery plate in today, I was also having some issues fitting it on the Scarlet. My only solution was to take off one of the 4 screws and only secure it with 3.
 

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It's def tight on my Epic as well. I need to give it a slight knock on the top to push it down all the way and pop out the sidebar to know its on securely.

didn't realize the washers had "sides" will try that when my package comes back from a rental.
 
Just received my IDX plate, and have noticed two issues - I'm wondering if anyone else out there has the same, or if I've got a bum plate:

First, Red bricks seem to be pretty difficult to seat so that they lock properly. If I push one into place single-handed, the lock won't engage fully, and the battery can be pulled off. In order to get the lock to hold, I have to sort of slam the battery down, using its momentum - which doesn't feel great, knowing how prone the sockets on those things are to widening. Even when the lock is engaged enough to hold, the lock button only pops out about 1mm or so... You can't see the little dent in the button shaft that is visible when the plate is empty, and it takes very little pressure to release the lock. This in contrast to the Red brick charger, which gives a satisfying click & pops its release button out all the way when engaged.

Second, my sliding top handle doesn't fit behind the plate as pictured in brook's post: http://reduser.net/forum/showthread...harging-cable!&p=896136&viewfull=1#post896136

With the end-cap removed, the bare metal at the end of the handle scrapes the back of the battery. With the end cap installed, it's not possible to attach a brick without majorly squashing the handle. This is with the washers installed. (Which leaves the plate a bit rattly on the back of the camera - but without the washers, I wouldn't be able to use the handle at all.)

Anyone else had this experience, and have a fix or workaround?
 
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