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Red Bricks vs Anton Bauer

Arthur Woo

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**UPDATE**
Okay so it looks like since I will be traveling occasionally I will have to use smaller batteries than the Red Bricks. Under 100 watt hours. Looks like the Dionic 90 or HC it is for now... thanks for your help!

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Hi all,

I recently had a Scarlet transferred to me and I am looking at a couple of battery solutions. I've read a dozen or so other threads about solutions and I have narrowed it down to either Red Bricks or Anton Bauer Dionic 90s. It appears that the Anton Bauer solution is a bit more expensive but from various threads they seem to be more of an industry standard than V-mounts in the US where I'm located.

Breakdown of cost for each:

Red Brick solution:

WC quickback+battery back+switronix v-mount: $598
Red Power Pack (2 Red Bricks + 2 Battery charger): $1450
total: $2048

Anton Bauer solution:
WC quickback+battery back+QB Anton Bauer mount: $677
Anton Bauer Dionic 90 x2: $798
TM4 Charger: $1599 (thinking a 4x charger for future growth)
total: $3074

Would there be a reason why I would spend around an extra $1000 to go with a 3rd party brand vs sticking w/ Red's products? Or if I've miscalculated the costs?

Thanks!
 
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Thanks Evin. I take it you prefer the Anton Bauer solution - any reason to go there vs Red Bricks? Just trying to get a feel for why people make their decisions as well. Link to the LA series charger? Couldn't find anything after typing in a few searches on Google
 
I recently ordered an Epic. I am investing in the AB setup. I bought 2 dionic batteries and have a trimpack. Will buy 1 more dionic when the need arises and I start shooting with the cam. I have a dual charger plus a single for the trimpack.

For me, AB was the choice for its flexibility and reliability. You can be on almost any set and find people with AB batteries. Not only this gives you an opportunity to borrow batteries in case yours die for some reason, but you might be able to lend yours too. I read on B&H that some guy was able to use his AB batteries for almost 10 years with excellent maintenance schedule. That might be a stretch, but I expect mine to last 3-5 years with good care. In the long run, they are solid plus the gold mount for connections and all...

I got my Epic plate from MG1 concepts for $499.

My camera hasn't arrived yet. I have 2 questions if anyone would like to answer.

1. I think all AB batteries are b/w 12-16.4 volts. I am not sure what's the voltage ratings for Epic / Scarlet. is it 12V? How much is the top end of voltage that the Red cameras can take. I won't fry my camera use AB batteries??

2. What has other people's experience has been with using AB with their rigs. The dionics are really small and just under a pound with readouts and all. I think they should be great addition to the rig.

Let me know if anyone has had any problems with AB or if there is a risk to fry the camera, however, I see dionics with RED all the time...

Best.
 
Anton Bauer all the way. it's universal and works among many camera packages and is easily replaceable in most large markets.
 
6 dionic 90, quad charger, tandem power supply. I don't think I've ever burned more than 4 dionics in one day. I have owned AB products for 15 years. On Epic/scarlet I prefer the size and shape of the dionics, same basic w x h as brain.

Also have AB plates mounted on monitors and LED lights.
 
6 dionic 90, quad charger, tandem power supply. I don't think I've ever burned more than 4 dionics in one day. I have owned AB products for 15 years. On Epic/scarlet I prefer the size and shape of the dionics, same basic w x h as brain.

Also have AB plates mounted on monitors and LED lights.

Great setup. I will build up with more Dionic 90s as I start shooting with my Epic..
 
I would go with Red Bricks.. Hate the cheesy look of all the other options, they just look ugly.
Red Bricks will give you at least 60 min of power and they have a power meter bar on the side.
you could go with:
munz machine battery plate with switronix v-mount: $99+$320= $419 and ditch the wc quickback option
http://www.munzmachine.com/munzbatteryplate/
http://www.cinemaoxide.com/oxide-battery-plate.php

RedBricks seem like a great option. I think their setup would be cheaper than AB. However, I think AB would last longer and more compatible with a host of other gadgets..

# Its interesting how AB doesn't print the battery voltage and current output on the battery (dionic 90).
 
Does anyone have experience using the Hytron 140 with their Scarlet / Epic. I read somewhere that the 140 on Epic would prevent you from inserting the side SSD and removing it? I am not sure if that is true or not, would like to know if someone has had that problem. The Hytrons are way too big and heavy compared to Dionic 90, but more than 2 hours run time based on a 60wH draw and very cost effective Vs dionic 90s..
 
RedBricks seem like a great option. I think their setup would be cheaper than AB. However, I think AB would last longer and more compatible with a host of other gadgets..

# Its interesting how AB doesn't print the battery voltage and current output on the battery (dionic 90).

Yeah, if you are using the bricks to power other gadgets thats always something you need to look into. Some of the other battery options do have longer battery life but they usually weigh more, cost more, and don't display battery life on the batteries.
 
One big vote for Red Bricks here, I have three for use with Scarlet and it means we can shoot continuously. Not so great if you're going to shoot abroad at all though as technically they're not allowed in passenger aircraft!
 
One big vote for Red Bricks here, I have three for use with Scarlet and it means we can shoot continuously. Not so great if you're going to shoot abroad at all though as technically they're not allowed in passenger aircraft!

I heard different. I heard you could travel with 3.. 1 attached to body and 2 in bag.
 
Go goldmount, as every V-mount I have ever used had stability problems. If you go Anton Bauer (which is a good way to go) get Dionic HCs if you can. They are rated for higher amperage than Dionic 90s. The Epic pulls @ 60w, but by the time you add monitors, viewfinders, and powered accessories, etc it will be more. The IO module @ 23w I think. This puts additional stress on a Dionic90 and will reduce runtime as well as lifespan. Plus, I would guess the Dragon sensor is likely to pull more power than the M-X, so plan ahead.
 
AB definitely. Small, light, and last forever. Same size as Epic
 
You don't get a D-Tap automatically on the Red Brick adapter. That's handy on the Anton Bauer Gold Mount - always there...one less adapter to carry. Again...it's universal and simple to wire a cable to power anything within that voltage. It's not a $300 proprietary connector.
 
...or less?

Wouldn't that be great! And maybe the "power management" alluded to in the upcoming build 4 will also help. But I'm not counting on it. The OLED bomb, and OLED on-boards help too. But always better to have the ability to pull more amperage than less. I originally got a set of AB Dionic 90s to power my Red One. It was 70w and the 90wh batts would kick after about 30 minutes because of the draw. Replaced them with 150wh B4Bs (which are a nice option, although much bigger than the HCs). Now that the HCs are here I'm not looking back. Not the cheapest solution, but none better. BTW, I still like throwing on the dual module REDvolt and kicking it with three redvolts. Very easy to travel. Just no D-tap.
 
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