Welcome to our community

Be a part of something great, join today!

  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Recommendations for removing noise

Marq Lee

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
102
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
El Segundo, CA
Good morning,

Any recommendations for a 3rd party software, aside from RCX or PPro for removing noise?

Please advise, thank you.

Marq Lee
 
Trust me...I share your vision. This was a pain in the @$$ project:-\
 
Speaking of neat video, what are you guys finding optimal for high iso night stuff? I shot some driving plates of the GG Bridge at night and obviously theres noise (can't help that). Just curious what you all find to be a decent base setting as my results tend to give that plastic look. There is definitely no more noise but can't stand that soft fake plastic look.
 
On the extreme I can get "decent" detail all the way up to ISO 6400. However, anytime you start doing hard core luminance reduction you'll lose something. Micro detail and texture begins to slowly vanish from detailed surfaces. For the most part ISO 3200-4000 produces pretty nice images with a good balance of low light performance and image quality.

All of that said I do shoot mostly between ISO 320-800 about 90% of the time. I tend not to push the ISO that high if I can avoid it. Between adding more light and using fast glass I can problem solve to produce optimal image quality.
 
Lighting is the obvious ideal situation, but when doing driving plates at night I can't light the Golden Gate Bridge especially in the wide shots. It doesn't help that I had to shoot it with CP. 2's at a 2.1. A 1.4 would have been greatly beneficial. I hate doing high ISO stuff but there are occasions where it is necessary. I guess I just need to sit down and really learn neat video instead of relying on the auto settings. Im not a post guy so it takes me longer to learn. Just though someone might have a set of numbers that gets you 90% of the way at 1600ISO.
 
Do you guys find that if you are shooting an interview and there are dark areas (which you want) you shoot at 800 ISO, but then in post drop it back and try and crush the blacks a little to remove noise? What is best practice for getting dark areas clean on a shot? I do find the MX chip to be pretty noisy but I'm sure it's more the way I m handling footage for than the camera.
 
Do you guys find that if you are shooting an interview and there are dark areas (which you want) you shoot at 800 ISO, but then in post drop it back and try and crush the blacks a little to remove noise? What is best practice for getting dark areas clean on a shot? I do find the MX chip to be pretty noisy but I'm sure it's more the way I m handling footage for than the camera.

You've gotta use the curves to bring the blacks down to where they are supposed to be. Once you shoot, in post switch to REDLOGFILM to get the most control of your image and then use your curves and contrast slider. Mainly you just need to bring the blacks down to how they were exposed for, otherwise you are effectively lifting the blacks creating noise. I've found REDGAMMA3 to be noisier than past gamma settings so I just stick to REDLOGFILM.
 
Lighting is the obvious ideal situation, but when doing driving plates at night I can't light the Golden Gate Bridge especially in the wide shots. It doesn't help that I had to shoot it with CP. 2's at a 2.1. A 1.4 would have been greatly beneficial. I hate doing high ISO stuff but there are occasions where it is necessary. I guess I just need to sit down and really learn neat video instead of relying on the auto settings. Im not a post guy so it takes me longer to learn. Just though someone might have a set of numbers that gets you 90% of the way at 1600ISO.
Matt, the best way to do it is to shoot some charts in various lighting conditions and then build some profiles. That way you can categorize the noise, and apply these profiles to future shots. You'll also want to experiment with the advanced settings. Much more control in there and you can start to avoid getting the plastic look you speak of.
 
Back
Top