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QuickPlate Module cannot power BarTech

J

Jeff Barklage

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I just installed my QuickPlate V-Mount Module and love it!
I can now power my TVLogic side monitor with the 2-pin LEMO connections and like the fact I can be away from the easily short-circuited D-Taps.
But....
In using my BarTech wireless follow focus system, I found that the QuickBack Module apparently cannot handle the power consumption of the Bartech.
First off, please note that the Bartech & Alexa have their 2-pin LEMO connections OPPOSITE the polarity that RED uses....this can be a very big surprise if you are not aware of this reverse in Polarity.
My custom 2-pin LEMO cables did factor this in...
Second, the QuickPlate has an internal 3.8amp circuit breaker that is reset when either the camera is powered down [if you are only using RedVolts] or when you remove the rear v-mount battery.

Anyway, the Bartech runs off the QuickPlate until you attempt to engage the focus motor, but the moment the motor activates, the QuickPlate's circuit breaker pops. You cannot even get to the calibration mode...

The BarTech's spec sheets say the total consumption of amperage is 3.0, well below the QuickPlates' 3.8 max.

So, I was wondering if anyone else has this situation?
 
I understand that Dtap is unsightly, and if you really force it in wrong you can burn things up, but in real life productions, I can power a whole bunch of things from it, including a Bartech.
If RED really wants to kill Dtap, they need to inspire confidence that you can power the equipment that we are used to use, and not have to pray every time we plug in that pretty Lemo connector...
 
Oups,
Just ordered the XL module... Thinking I could use the output from the +1 for my bolt and then use the output from the XL to power FF systems... is this a no go? I been sticking to red batteries for so long now, and though i finally would have a solution that's small and can take it all. So pleeeaaase tell me this will work, I really do not want to sell of all these nice little batteries to go and buy some big Dtap bricks.
 
Are you saying that red totally fucked up their on body power distribution?! Why I never! /s

Dtap is a standard because it works. Simple as that.
 
OK, I just spoke to RED tech support.
Indeed, the QuickPlate LEMO connections are a TOTAL capacity of 3.8 amps.
Red's new wireless remote focus unit will work with this size power limitations.
Bartechs apparently consume a whole lot more...as I can attest.
New digital wireless receivers & motors apparently draw less amperage.
I have no idea if my Bartech is digital or analog...
I am now worried that my MicroForce zoom system may not work on this 2-pin LEMO QuickPlate as well....I'll have to obtain a new cable, make sure that the polarity is REVERSED from standard Arri/Alexa...and try it out.
Very expensive experiment as I'm sure that cable is probably $400
I dunno why there is such a limited capacity on the power output of the QuickPlate's LEMO connections.
We need a nice fat power supply for the accessories we use day in and day out. I had hoped this was the answer.
 
I've had issues for years w BarTech and Red, it draws a lot of power when calibrating. They ran fine otherwise.
We used to calibrate with camera off, then power on camera and all worked fine. Finally got tired of it and switched to Arri wireless which doesn't have any issues. Preston works fine also.

BarTech makes a great product, but they were the only wireless system that had issues with Red
 
"First off, please note that the Bartech & Alexa have their 2-pin LEMO connections OPPOSITE the polarity that RED uses....this can be a very big surprise if you are not aware of this reverse in Polarity."
This statement has me worried as I bought a 2pin lemo to Dtap splitter from Arri, I was told that as long as it was 0B and not 1B it would be OK. As I am still waiting for my quick plate module (since September) I have not been able to test it but am now concerned that this splitter will not work and could do damage. Could this be the case?
 
Nick, it's a very simple process to check polarity on D-Taps...especially since the polarity markings are usually quite visible as they are molded into the plastic.
Use a volt meter to verify correct polarity.
If the polarity is reversed, D-taps are very simple design and easy to desolder and swap the cables internally.
Double check polarity again if you have to "adjust" yours....then paint the positive (+) side red with model paint ( I use Testors paint pens), and using a label maker, create a small sticker that states. " for Epics only!)
 
Does anyone know the output of the auxiliary port on the +1 adapter module?
 
What a nightmare.

Power distribution is a total pain on Epic for the rental market. I was hoping that this would address it.

We need a simple power distribution module that works with all of the accessories that we use (preston or arri focus, clear screens, video transmitters and onboard monitors).
 
Ruff said:
We need a simple power distribution module that works with all of the accessories that we use (preston or arri focus, clear screens, video transmitters and onboard monitors).
Click to expand...

We have that:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/204182-REG/Anton_Bauer_POWERTAP_MULTI_PowerTap_Multi.html
or
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...r_QR_QUAD_PT_4_PowerTap_Sandwich_Adapter.html

Do I wish for something more elegant? no doubt. But I'm happy that it works, it works every time and most accessories you can buy comes with cables that work with this...
 
Thanks Daniel,

Yes - thats exactly what we are using currently.

I have been looking into the wooden camera and the solid camera options. But, what I would like most of all is a Red Module. That would be great.
 
My the local rental houses in LA (and my AC's) demand that any solution be able to pass power to the camera and be hot-swappable between onboard and block batteries. It should also be able to run a Preston Fiz (or Bartech) on a big sticky zoom like the Ang 24-290 while simultaneously powering at least one monitor, wireless, and a Cinetape.

I've found there seem to be only three options out there that can do this:

Solid Camera's Scatterbox: http://www.solidcamera.com/#!ScatterBOX-12-and-24-Volt/zoom/c1n0r/image20pm
Action Product's "Electra": http://www.innocinema.com/cameras-specifics/epic-scarlet/module-power-systems.html
The last is to have someone custom build it, which is what many of the rental houses in LA do.

I've recently tested the Scatterbox at The Camera House in LA. We attached literally everything to it and it worked perfectly. I bought one immediately.
 
Daniel Stilling said:
We have that:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/204182-REG/Anton_Bauer_POWERTAP_MULTI_PowerTap_Multi.html
or
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...r_QR_QUAD_PT_4_PowerTap_Sandwich_Adapter.html

Do I wish for something more elegant? no doubt. But I'm happy that it works, it works every time and most accessories you can buy comes with cables that work with this...
Click to expand...
Ha Dtap multiplier
Many times i trusted this thing and fucked up on set lol :) This doesnt work with SmallHD DP7 dtap+ Paralinx Dtap together.Maybe too much amp. draw for a 1 dtap output from Battery.

i love everything about RED! but Power Distro part is the worst ever :( Thats all i hear on set by ACs about Red.%99 of attacks to RED is power i/o !
 
Just get the action products package it will fits all your needs.

I power the redmote, a tvlogic, a wireless video, and a wireless follow focus and still have energy to spare.
As long as you don't overload the battery itself, it will work fine.

I work half the time without my own epic+Electra.... It such a pain to use dtap multiplier that fails every week, to fight against power cables and poor attachments... Red should have bought action products instead of element technica.
 
ACTION PRODUCTS makes the BEST distro. PRO, SLEEK, SOLID. I agree Red should have bought them. If anyone hasn't seen their Epic accessories, take a look, and your welcome. : )
 
None of these are acceptable to me.
The reason I bought the QuickPlate was to rid of the dangling power cable that always ran from the V-mount to the camera body.
This seemed like a bad design as this cable always hung down and looped outward and sways seemed poised to catch on anything. I actually own 3 x V-mounts, from 2 different manufacturers, and every one of them was an accident ready to happen.
Utilizing any of the above solutions still forces me to use the V-Mount battery plate that has the cable issue.
When I saw the QuickPlate announced, and it eliminated the troublesome power cable by routing the power directly through itself to the cameras...I thought I found the perfect accessory....but now I cannot run my needed accessories with its limited power output. I'm curious why the limited capacity of 3.8 amps was chosen?
 
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