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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

PRO IO MINI - WHO WANTS IT - VOTE HERE !

I don't have high hopes RED would make it, but if they did then I'd buy both modules.
 
WOW!!!! that looks so wrong.... But Im sure it works perfectly.

I refuse to make mine grow that long. I'm so use to a simple little power house.

Actually, Im a liar.. I have 2 more EPICs set up in full production mode... which sometimes get quite big... but they are still not that long.

MY_SMALL_EPIC_SETUP.jpg

I actually think that for handheld work or shoulder mount stuff the camera movement gets much nicer with a heavy and long camera. The weight and especially in combination with the length takes out quite a bit of the high currency rotational shakes. You can think of it as the stick that the guys use for balance when walking on a wire. It works so that the longer and the heavier stick they use the easier it is to stay in balance. So the length and weight of an epic with a few modules and with the heavy battery in the very back actually works as a gyro and counter balance the big lenses perfectly on the clutch.

This theory is also the explanation to why the camera moves always looks shit when shooting handheld with things like iPhone, small dv cams or SLR's, while big old heavy film cameras always looks so good even when they get a bit wobbly and shaky. Simply because the heaviness of the camera makes the wobble pleasant. So I allways tell our post clients before they go out to shoot handheld 5D or such to put a weight bar under the camera... not many listen but when they do it looks tons better.

Somebody told me that the perfect camera setup should up / front mounted on tripod and such with the nodal point for the lens on the same distance as your eyes are from your neck / spine and the ideal camera weight should be the same as your head . The reasoning behind this was that this kind of setup would give a momentum and movement that we are used to from looking around with our own eyes.... But from testing I think that the heavier camera the better it moves.... camera operators usually does not like this theory of mine :)
 
Yes i agree all the pro I/O modules & batt modules make the thing into a" stretch" EPIC.....there too big and they are totally getting away from the whole point of EPIC's design
But i have truly found my ideal solution for all the work i do, be it promo's/titles/doco/drama etc.......
Ive posted about it in other threads, but with HDMI & HDSDI both working in the new beta firmware, The Innocinema setup gives me all the outputs i need......1 x BNC HDSDI, 1 HDMI (EPIC body), 2x AUDIO XLR inputs, BNC TC in, 12v outputs all over the place, 24V outputs, 5V outputs, 4 PIN 12V XLR output/input.......its just a plethora of inputs & outputs......!
There is also a 15mm LW front that attaches to there bottom audio plate
I have a 5V 2 pin fischer to mini USB to charge the REDMOTE, and im now working on a cable for the good old Aaton handle to trigger start/stop.
i dont work for these guys i just think this is the smartest & best engineered 3rd party gear i've seen.....
im stoked...!
cheers
 

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a few more pics of the rig on set & with Canon mount, and doing some gyro tests.......its still a nice small compact rig........!
 

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+1

It's simple, compact, and addresses the 2 key issues of the brain only setup. Please make this Red!

Dave Litchfield
 
I actually think that for handheld work or shoulder mount stuff the camera movement gets much nicer with a heavy and long camera. The weight and especially in combination with the length takes out quite a bit of the high currency rotational shakes. You can think of it as the stick that the guys use for balance when walking on a wire. It works so that the longer and the heavier stick they use the easier it is to stay in balance. So the length and weight of an epic with a few modules and with the heavy battery in the very back actually works as a gyro and counter balance the big lenses perfectly on the clutch.

This theory is also the explanation to why the camera moves always looks shit when shooting handheld with things like iPhone, small dv cams or SLR's, while big old heavy film cameras always looks so good even when they get a bit wobbly and shaky. Simply because the heaviness of the camera makes the wobble pleasant. So I allways tell our post clients before they go out to shoot handheld 5D or such to put a weight bar under the camera... not many listen but when they do it looks tons better.

Somebody told me that the perfect camera setup should up / front mounted on tripod and such with the nodal point for the lens on the same distance as your eyes are from your neck / spine and the ideal camera weight should be the same as your head . The reasoning behind this was that this kind of setup would give a momentum and movement that we are used to from looking around with our own eyes.... But from testing I think that the heavier camera the better it moves.... camera operators usually does not like this theory of mine :)

I think your correct. :) and what you say is true.
However the characteristics your talking about in trained hands can be avoided... I shoot (bad small hand held camera way) and still get fantastic results. But you are correct, heavier bigger camera over the should is smoother.

http://www.zoomfilmtv.com.au/tvcs/anz_tennis.html
http://www.zoomfilmtv.com.au/tvcs/99yrs.html

But you are correct, heavier bigger camera over the should is smoother.
 
+1 for this idea. I'd but it.

I love the idea of the Pro I/O but I have become addicted to the small size of the Epic and want to do everything I can to keep it that way. I have 2 Epic-X's and will be getting rid of my unopened dual battery module because it makes the rig too big. I'm glad there are other power options. I would love this I/O option.

Mike
 
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