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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Optitron and Canon L glass

Tehben Dean said:
Just got an email from http://www.lockcircle.com/ about their new DSLR wireless focus unit. It connects to the DSLR via USB. Would be awesome if you were able to connect directly into the Epic and utilize the Red canon mount. Could then utilize all the lens data in camera etc.
Hey RED! Pretty please!
Click to expand...
All these are based on the open source unit made by Okii.
These are toys not really the same. Based on the Canon SDK. Not usable in a pro enviroment . Not accurate, not repeateable.
Yes they move focus- kind of. you can find plenty of feedback on the forums.
They are intimately tied to the Canon (SDK).
Don't mix them up- completely irrelevant at this point.... Maybe Canon will up their SDK game. They haven't as of yet:nonod:
 
Jacek Zakowicz said:
All these are based on the open source unit made by Okii.
These are toys not really the same. Based on the Canon SDK. Not usable in a pro enviroment . Not accurate, not repeateable.
Yes they move focus- kind of. you can find plenty of feedback on the forums.
They are intimately tied to the Canon (SDK).
Don't mix them up- completely irrelevant at this point.... Maybe Canon will up their SDK game. They haven't as of yet:nonod:
Click to expand...

Yes, my intended point was that if RED released an SDK for connecting devices to the EPIC then people like you could utilize the existing lens mounts etc which would be better for those who already have the mount/want to have all the lens data and still have the option of using RED's in-camera controls for the lens.
 
Yes that would be ideal.
I suspect there is a very good technical reason for the absence....
 
That's right Tom. AF motors required.
It's funny how Canon yanked out the high tech from their lenses and charges 3x as much for them.
Oh the irony...:sneaky2:
 
Here's a spot we shot in a day with canon L glass and Optitron. Lenses used were 24 1.4/ 50 1.4/ 85 1.4/ 70-200 2.8 IS2. Lots of little rack focuses ( bumps) and tracking focus in the dog park ( all 70-200.) Almost the entire spot was shot f1.4-2 on primes and 2.8 on the zoom.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWBVcsbJU3g
 
Any progress on synchronised focus control for 3D ? Nikon G primes would be a great choice!
 
ckarcher said:
Here's a spot we shot in a day with canon L glass and Optitron. Lenses used were 24 1.4/ 50 1.4/ 85 1.4/ 70-200 2.8 IS2. Lots of little rack focuses ( bumps) and tracking focus in the dog park ( all 70-200.) Almost the entire spot was shot f1.4-2 on primes and 2.8 on the zoom.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWBVcsbJU3g
Click to expand...

Hmm...There are a lot of out of focus shots in that spot. I assume it was a stylistic choice, not a consequence of working with the Optitron.
 
We now rent units to try our drive by wire systems before you buy :)
 
We are getting close to the wireless module launch.
What do you think about still electornic lenses optimized for cine work? I got some email with suggestions to offer lenses to got wit hthe ProLock-i/ Optitron combo. maybe couple of zooms first: Wide ->normal zoom and normal->long zoom. Both f2.8.
Some unique features like zoom moor hookup, standard fron size, zoom gear? Anything else?
 
Great to hear about the wireless module ! Put one aside for me ;)

What do you mean by "still electornic lenses optimized for cine work" ? What would be different compared to standard Canon lenses ? Could you elaborate ?

As I told you, my main issue is matching the backfocus of my different Canon lenses, and I'm still waiting for your answer on that one ;)
I don't care that much about zoom gear or front size, I just want my lenses to match with each other, backfocus wise !
 
Also a smaller and less bulkier version of the optitron would be great!... One that can be mounted natively and easily on rods and take minimal space and be used like a regular follow focus. :)
 
Julio Quintana said:
Hmm...There are a lot of out of focus shots in that spot. I assume it was a stylistic choice, not a consequence of working with the Optitron.
Click to expand...

Having had the pleasure of working with Chris on several projects I can assure you that he has a penchant for using focus as a creative tool in a more dynamic way than most. He's also a flare addict and likes using vintage glass for character. Whatever your personal opinion on such stylistic choices, they are deliberate, and his clients seem to like his "look"...

Cheers - #19
 
Nils Ruinet said:
Great to hear about the wireless module ! Put one aside for me ;)

What do you mean by "still electornic lenses optimized for cine work" ? What would be different compared to standard Canon lenses ? Could you elaborate ?

As I told you, my main issue is matching the backfocus of my different Canon lenses, and I'm still waiting for your answer on that one ;)
I don't care that much about zoom gear or front size, I just want my lenses to match with each other, backfocus wise !
Click to expand...
Here are my suggestions for the focusing procedure:
1. check the flange depth on the camera. I obviously recommend the Optimator, but Denz unit should do. Just remember with the Denz you need to know the offset- different for every camera. Oh wait- Denz does not offer Canon mount for their unit! Optimator it is then!! Once you are 100% sure your camera is set correctly get to the lenses. Alternatively you can start from setting the lenses and use them to set the camera to.
2. Collimate the lenses. You need an access to a collimator- usually rental facilities or lens repair shops would have them.
To collimate a prime all you need to do is make sure it reaches the infinity. Or have it pass just a little to assure "positive" infnity.
Still and video lens convention is to stop at the infinity but motion picture convention is to pass it a little- your choice.
Just remember- if you make it just barely reach the infinity in a room temperature it may not reach it anymore if you are working outdoors in subfreezing environment. That's why I recommend to set lenses to pass infinity just in case.
don't worry about the scale- it's not accurate (no index lines next to numbers) and you shouldn't use it. OptiTron will give you a much better readout on its marking ring.
But you may check few distances just in case as a "sanity check"
To collimate zooms you set the lens at the long end and focus. Zoom out and check the offset with the collimator mic . Shim as needed.
Now if you checked and adjusted the flange depth on your camera the lenses should all be in focus.
If you haven't checked the camera:
3.Take he widest zoom. Place a high resolution target (chart, photograph or banknote) a little further than the minimum focusing distance on the lens.
At the zoom long end focus the image. Note the focus position on the scale (or mark it)
Zoom out. now try to refocus the lens. If the focus ends up in the same position you are good to go.
If not first put the focus ring back to its original position and adjust the camera until you see the focus change for the better.
Repeat from the beginning of number 3 until you get the lens to focus in the same spot at the wide end.
All to be performed wide open.
If your widest zoom is in focus and all lenses are collimated every other lens will focus correctly- guarantied!!!!
Hope that helps :)
 
Maz Mawlawi said:
Also a smaller and less bulkier version of the optitron would be great!... One that can be mounted natively and easily on rods and take minimal space and be used like a regular follow focus. :)
Click to expand...
The OptiTron is not that big- if you've used the preston fiz you won't be surprised.
Having said that- NAB is coming....:thumbsup:
 
Hey Jacek,
Are you still working on a Nikon version of the OptiTron? I do hope so!
 
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