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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

NEW design to chew on...

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Matt, I was thinking the same thing, but the half-handle design isn't very sturdy for picking up the camera, especially if equipped with a large zoom.

Also, it still doesn't leave enough room for the drive/battery to be top mounted anyway.

If you need the drive/battery top mounted, you're most likely doing steadicam work, in which case you wouldn't need a top handle necessarily.

So if you really need the drive/battery top mounted, remove the handle and slide on the universal top mount.
 
I like the new designs quite a bit...

I really dig the handle in front of the shoulder pad. If you guys could just make a nice little inexpensive zoom rocker control that could be placed wherever you want (including on that grip somewhere) that would be quite swank... Right hand on the lower grip, and left hand on the focus/aperture...

Tim
 
I actually like the two-sided handle much better... in a handheld situation, I think you'll appreciate the weight to the back of the camera instead of on top. Having the handle run the entire length of the top vastly increases stability and durability, and that's what's most important about it to me. Though I suppose they could make both... :-P
 
Alexander Nikishin said:
If you need the drive/battery top mounted, you're most likely doing steadicam work, in which case you wouldn't need a top handle necessarily.
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Actually, if you're doing Steadicam work, you'll probably power the rig through the 12V connector using the battery on the sled.
 
Alexander, when you shoot from a tripod the red mag being on top will be better, the battery on the back is in the way of the lcd. and the extra length is going to be undesirable. The handle is going to be strong enough from one side - think about the cranks on a bicycle. Where the handle attach it would be that thick... it's not going to crack or break however wild we get with a giant zooms.

Matt Uhry
www.mattuhry.com
 
Häakon said:
Actually, if you're doing Steadicam work, you'll probably power the rig through the 12V connector using the battery on the sled.
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I would imagine that the drive would still be top mounted preferably though?

I know that many people will shoot on flash but personally, I don't want anything to do with solid state recording until recording capacity increases.
 
Matt, while you do make a good point about having the drive weight too far back on a tripod, putting it on top of the camera could overload some heads. Raising the CG on a head causes a significant camera weight increase in the eye of the head.

But that's a discussion for another thread. We'll all rig up the cameras differently. :)
 
Alexander Nikishin said:
THANK YOU JIM!!!!!!!! THAT'S EXACTLY WHAT I WANTED! :greedy:

Tons of mounting points, lightweight, protective, carry handles, just perfect.
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Hehe... I was kinda waiting for your post Alexander. I too am a fan of the original cage with tons-o-mounting points. Nice to see it back in action. :biggrin:
 
Matt Uhry said:
Alexander, when you shoot from a tripod the red mag being on top will be better, the battery on the back is in the way of the lcd. and the extra length is going to be undesirable. The handle is going to be strong enough from one side - think about the cranks on a bicycle. Where the handle attach it would be that thick... it's not going to crack or break however wild we get with a giant zooms.

Matt Uhry
www.mattuhry.com
Click to expand...

After handling the camera at NAB on the 2060 and 1030 heads, it was clear that there was no problem in concerns with the length of the camera for work on sticks.

The only situation I can think of where shortening the camera's length may be necessary is when in a tight space, such as your friend's Honda Civic, or when on a steadicam.

In which case, I'll just unmount the top handle and slide the unviersal top mount onto the rails.

The problem with the half handle is, the handle, even when cut in half, is still too long to allow for the drive/battery to be top mounted. UNLESS it can be mounted horizontally to the handle, not vertically.
 
Boothba said:
Hehe... I was kinda waiting for your post Alexander. I too am a fan of the original cage with tons-o-mounting points. Nice to see it back in action. :biggrin:
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It's perfect. This setup has everything I would ask for.
 
Brook Willard said:
Timothy, have you seen the SuperGrip?
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Hi Brook,

Yeah, and I'd love one... But that's more complex, and bound to be more expensive than what I was thinking of...

What I had in mind is just a simple zoom rocker, maybe two versions, one to control the Red Motor, and another that is simply a remote for a normal 2/3" zoom.

That way you could place the zoom rocker anywhere you want, including the arm of a tripod head, or anywhere on the camera. A nice quick release design would be a very versatile addition to the package I think.

The Supergrip would be like the deluxe control system, and the zoom rocker would be the basic version, which when used in coordination with the programmable controls on the EVF would probably give you a lot of options for whatever you needed to control.

Anyway, I like the new designs a lot, and I for one vote for the M16 style grip, though I think that a single mounted option would be nice to offer too. I can't wait to see what crazy hardware these guys dream up in the future...

Tim
 
Love the new ears on the PL mount. I hope they don't protrude into the area where the gears on short lenses like old style Zeiss speeds? (motor interference) or large barrell lenses? also too much protursion gives us somthing to ping the rear element on during dark of night lens changes.

The new shoulder pad lock between the lower rods is nice, and looks more reachable while on your shoulder making the transition from centered over the Sachtler plate. Will it still be reachable with the light weight support adapter installed near the front of the camera on the lower rods?

I can imagine one obvious use for the upper rods, they are a great place to install the third motor on short zooms like the 18/50

I love that the two upper rod supports are the same height so the low mode steadi plate can attach easily to both. For some plates without the correct hole or shorter plates it would be nice to have an optional third piece that was the same height and could slide on the upper rails to line up two 3/8 16 holes with two steadi plate holes so no spinning camera.

I just know all these mounting holes are helicoiled??

Pulling everything in tight to the camera has created a very aesthetic body. I bet it's also a bunch lighter. Kudos to the cage designer, This is a cage like lycra.
 
very cool.. handheldy.. pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeease, go there!

i have no money for a new stabilizer purchase..

this should rock on the steadicam flyer.. can it be?

no more than 14/15 lbs!



edit
(lens included and fairly accessorized, of course!)
 
now were cookin with gas!!!!

that top handle is perfect. and two sided is much better for balance.

I think the combination of form and function make this the best set up yet.

did you guys hire a feng shuie master for this redesign?
 
LOVE IT!!! Love the new top handle--that's what more of us ENG/EFP guys are used to. I like how it's more "integrated." I like how Jim throws us these little tidbits every once in a while to keep us at bay.
 
tj williams said:
Love the new ears on the PL mount. I hope they don't protrude into the area where the gears on short lenses like old style Zeiss speeds? (motor interference) or large barrell lenses? also too much protursion gives us somthing to ping the rear element on during dark of night lens changes.
Click to expand...

I was thinking the same thing. On most cameras, the lens mount is flush against the body, necessitating that the PL ears extend forwards into lens territory. With this camera's design, they could potentially be turned around... see the picture.

I haven't thought much about it, but this could have some nifty benefits. The PL ears appear to be attached via two small screws. It'd be way cool if they could be turned around.
 
Keep the tid bits coming Jim, otherwise we get stupid like on the last news thread. We are so easy !
Aloha
-A
 
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