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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

KOMODO....

rand thompson said:
Here's a Camo version


hj-2-1-9.jpg
Click to expand...

Super cool Rand!
 
Hi!

I wanted to introduce myself to the thread as I'm new here and have been following this Komodo thread since it started! I am a film student at Elon University and also have a small production company. Owning a Red has been my dream ever since I got started years ago.

It is amazing to see all the hard work and dedication the Red team has been putting into this camera and everything they do. Red has inspired me to work harder and think creatively throughout my entire career. At the end of the day, a camera is a tool we use to create; I believe the best camera is one that allows the filmmaker not to be limited, produce stunning imagery, and be at his/her most creative. Red has given us this the whole time. Thank you to the entire Red team for inspiring us, and allowing us to turn our dreams into reality.

The Komodo will hopefully be my first Red (if I can still afford it lol), and then I can finally say I am a Red user. Thank you Jarred for your leadership, dedication, hard work, and keeping this extremelyyy long thread alive hahahah
 
A question that hurts to think about, but necessary, have any drop tests been preformed? What is the drop height?
 
Really dig the Gunmetal and Hydrogen TI, would kill for a Forged Carbon, yet that may place it out of spec Komodo class camera. Jarred what level would you say auto focus is at with Komodo at this stage, have you passed Panasonic so to speak? The Black Komodo can we speak about that, any plans on anything other than Aluminum? I'm still interested in what you are cooking up @GDU for Komodo, mounts, baseplates and so on? Will there be a production kit and has the official process for H1 discount been put in place?
 
Christian Jadot said:
A question that hurts to think about, but necessary, have any drop tests been preformed? What is the drop height?
Click to expand...

I won't be dropping mine, knock on wood, but Jarred has mentioned a bunch and it's plain to see Komodo has been built to take a beating. More than likely your lens will snap off and batteries will bounce out. Media will be contained in the body as there is a door there, which is a big thumbs up from me.

One unspoken good thing about REDCODE RAW is generally if the camera loses power for some reason your R3D take usually records and creates a good end of file. I've seen that happen over the years due to cranes and junk pulling power and shockingly the takes are there.

I suspect we'll see this camera being used as a crash cam/stunt cam a bunch honestly. That somewhat breaks my heart, but you know, you can't make an omelette without breaking a few eggs.
 
Phil Holland said:
I won't be dropping mine, knock on wood, but Jarred has mentioned a bunch and it's plain to see Komodo has been built to take a beating. More than likely your lens will snap off and batteries will bounce out. Media will be contained in the body as there is a door there, which is a big thumbs up from me.

One unspoken good thing about REDCODE RAW is generally if the camera loses power for some reason your R3D take usually records and creates a good end of file. I've seen that happen over the years due to cranes and junk pulling power and shockingly the takes are there.

I suspect we'll see this camera being used as a crash cam/stunt cam a bunch honestly. That somewhat breaks my heart, but you know, you can't make an omelette without breaking a few eggs.
Click to expand...
Any word on Speedbooster and Komodo or what are you able to share about this combination?
 
Phil Holland said:
One unspoken good thing about REDCODE RAW is generally if the camera loses power for some reason your R3D take usually records and creates a good end of file. I've seen that happen over the years due to cranes and junk pulling power and shockingly the takes are there.
Click to expand...

Yeah, agreed.. I've been using a camera that records ProRes on a couple of my experimental high-speed fpv drones and can definitely say that it's a slow process repairing a ProRes file that was ended by a battery or card being ejected on impact. I wish there was a Redundead for ProRes. That said.. I've got a couple fpv platforms ready for their Komodos –*maybe one of you artists can mock up a color scheme based on a crash test dummy.. :)
 
Phil Holland said:
I won't be dropping mine, knock on wood, but Jarred has mentioned a bunch and it's plain to see Komodo has been built to take a beating. More than likely your lens will snap off and batteries will bounce out. Media will be contained in the body as there is a door there, which is a big thumbs up from me.

One unspoken good thing about REDCODE RAW is generally if the camera loses power for some reason your R3D take usually records and creates a good end of file. I've seen that happen over the years due to cranes and junk pulling power and shockingly the takes are there.

I suspect we'll see this camera being used as a crash cam/stunt cam a bunch honestly. That somewhat breaks my heart, but you know, you can't make an omelette without breaking a few eggs.
Click to expand...

Part of the reason is I am trying to get my boss to purchase a few, and we play rough. (Military Visual Information shop). I am coming up with a list of benefits why we should go the RED route for video. It's been an ongoing project.

My personal one will be babied.
 
Mestizo Devon said:
Really dig the Gunmetal and Hydrogen TI, would kill for a Forged Carbon, yet that may place it out of spec Komodo class camera. Jarred what level would you say auto focus is at with Komodo at this stage, have you passed Panasonic so to speak? The Black Komodo can we speak about that, any plans on anything other than Aluminum? I'm still interested in what you are cooking up @GDU for Komodo, mounts, baseplates and so on? Will there be a production kit and has the official process for H1 discount been put in place?
Click to expand...

Jarred answered the following about the H1 process:
“yeah hydrogen owners will type in their [S/N] into when its time to order the normal black komodos for the discount. That’s a ways away so no rush, don’t need the pre list to happen“
 
Simon Becker said:
Jarred answered the following about the H1 process:
“yeah hydrogen owners will type in their [S/N] into when its time to order the normal black komodos for the discount. That’s a ways away so no rush, don’t need the pre list to happen“
Click to expand...
Dig it, I was aware, just wondering if it had been fully flushed out with links and such.... All good, still a bit off.
 
Mestizo Devon said:
I looked at the FAQ and seems that the SB takes Komodo to FF, I'm interested in your take on the aesthetic, does the SB add anything special or not?
Click to expand...

Notable paths with Komodo and lens mounts.

Mount Adapters (two flavors):

Simple mechanical mounts are essentially just tubes with the adapted to mount on them that give you the correct flange focal distance. There are "dumb" and "smart" mounts, smart ones have electronics in them. Particularly if you are going from things like Canon RF (Komodo's native mount) to Canon EF and still want electronic control over iris and focus, the smart mounts are what you want.

As for Speedboosters (focal reducers). They have pros and cons. And seemingly I am very literally the only person on the internet who ever calls out the cons of these things. And I even use them. I'm just letting people know it's not all daisies and rainbows.

Pros:
- You traditionally gain about 1 stop of light (and T2.8 lens is now as sensitive as an T2 lens for instance as the light is amplified)
- You also get the wider field of view that comes with the reducers magnification ratio (generally approximately designed to get you to a specific format like S35 to F35)
- Will absolutely produce a higher MTF than a bare lens (for example a F35 center frame will be sharper with the focal reducer than just the bare lens due to reduction)

Cons:
- You will likely see added distortion when using a Speedbooster than compared to filming on the native format you are trying to get to.
- You will likely see enhanced vignetting than just the bare lens, though in some cases it can even reduce vignetting, which is a fun optical physics versus optical path dance
- While sharper often center frame, image performance commonly falls off towards the edges compared to the bare lens
- You also might see enhanced image artifacts, aberrations, towards the edge of frame
- You are still adding more glass into the mix and that might have an impact on lens flare and even glare, i.e. more internal reflections

No free lunch with optics. Reducers are tools and you just need to know what you're getting into with them. A lot is dependent on the lenses themselves you are pairing them with. Some designs will inherently work better when projecting light onto a reducer's element than others. In terms of increasing sharpness overall, yes in theory and certain increasing telecentricity, but at the same time optical coverage comes into play when you start getting to the edge of the reducer and that's where the rub is.

For me reducers are most useful when trying to get that extra stop or increasing the FOV. But it is important to know where issues may arise. And yes, I'll be using them with Komodo a fair bit. Equally though, I'm into some of that good old fashioned bare lens action, whether that's Super 35mm or anything for a larger format as well. Can't been that naked glass if you are really after the purist mentality as well as image quality.
 
Phil Holland said:
Notable paths with Komodo and lens mounts.

Mount Adapters (two flavors):

Simple mechanical mounts are essentially just tubes with the adapted to mount on them that give you the correct flange focal distance. There are "dumb" and "smart" mounts, smart ones have electronics in them. Particularly if you are going from things like Canon RF (Komodo's native mount) to Canon EF and still want electronic control over iris and focus, the smart mounts are what you want.

As for Speedboosters (focal reducers). They have pros and cons. And seemingly I am very literally the only person on the internet who ever calls out the cons of these things. And I even use them. I'm just letting people know it's not all daisies and rainbows.

Pros:
- You traditionally gain about 1 stop of light (and T2.8 lens is now as sensitive as an T2 lens for instance as the light is amplified)
- You also get the wider field of view that comes with the reducers magnification ratio (generally approximately designed to get you to a specific format like S35 to F35)
- Will absolutely produce a higher MTF than a bare lens (for example a F35 center frame will be sharper with the focal reducer than just the bare lens due to reduction)

Cons:
- You will likely see added distortion when using a Speedbooster than compared to filming on the native format you are trying to get to.
- You will likely see enhanced vignetting than just the bare lens, though in some cases it can even reduce vignetting, which is a fun optical physics versus optical path dance
- While sharper often center frame, image performance commonly falls off towards the edges compared to the bare lens
- You also might see enhanced image artifacts, aberrations, towards the edge of frame
- You are still adding more glass into the mix and that might have an impact on lens flare and even glare, i.e. more internal reflections

No free lunch with optics. Reducers are tools and you just need to know what you're getting into with them. A lot is dependent on the lenses themselves you are pairing them with. Some designs will inherently work better when projecting light onto a reducer's element than others. In terms of increasing sharpness overall, yes in theory and certain increasing telecentricity, but at the same time optical coverage comes into play when you start getting to the edge of the reducer and that's where the rub is.

For me reducers are most useful when trying to get that extra stop or increasing the FOV. But it is important to know where issues may arise. And yes, I'll be using them with Komodo a fair bit. Equally though, I'm into some of that good old fashioned bare lens action, whether that's Super 35mm or anything for a larger format as well. Can't been that naked glass if you are really after the purist mentality as well as image quality.
Click to expand...
Dig it, thanks again Phil!
 
Phil Holland said:
Notable paths with Komodo and lens mounts.

Mount Adapters (two flavors):

Simple mechanical mounts are essentially just tubes with the adapted to mount on them that give you the correct flange focal distance. There are "dumb" and "smart" mounts, smart ones have electronics in them. Particularly if you are going from things like Canon RF (Komodo's native mount) to Canon EF and still want electronic control over iris and focus, the smart mounts are what you want.

As for Speedboosters (focal reducers). They have pros and cons. And seemingly I am very literally the only person on the internet who ever calls out the cons of these things. And I even use them. I'm just letting people know it's not all daisies and rainbows.

Pros:
- You traditionally gain about 1 stop of light (and T2.8 lens is now as sensitive as an T2 lens for instance as the light is amplified)
- You also get the wider field of view that comes with the reducers magnification ratio (generally approximately designed to get you to a specific format like S35 to F35)
- Will absolutely produce a higher MTF than a bare lens (for example a F35 center frame will be sharper with the focal reducer than just the bare lens due to reduction)

Cons:
- You will likely see added distortion when using a Speedbooster than compared to filming on the native format you are trying to get to.
- You will likely see enhanced vignetting than just the bare lens, though in some cases it can even reduce vignetting, which is a fun optical physics versus optical path dance
- While sharper often center frame, image performance commonly falls off towards the edges compared to the bare lens
- You also might see enhanced image artifacts, aberrations, towards the edge of frame
- You are still adding more glass into the mix and that might have an impact on lens flare and even glare, i.e. more internal reflections

No free lunch with optics. Reducers are tools and you just need to know what you're getting into with them. A lot is dependent on the lenses themselves you are pairing them with. Some designs will inherently work better when projecting light onto a reducer's element than others. In terms of increasing sharpness overall, yes in theory and certain increasing telecentricity, but at the same time optical coverage comes into play when you start getting to the edge of the reducer and that's where the rub is.

For me reducers are most useful when trying to get that extra stop or increasing the FOV. But it is important to know where issues may arise. And yes, I'll be using them with Komodo a fair bit. Equally though, I'm into some of that good old fashioned bare lens action, whether that's Super 35mm or anything for a larger format as well. Can't been that naked glass if you are really after the purist mentality as well as image quality.
Click to expand...

I was talking to a buddy of mine at Atlas lenses. For me, what I love about the speedbooster on the Komodo is that you can use the whole image circle of their anamorphics and other anamorphic lenses that allow you to switch to EF mount. I only know Orion lenses allow you to switch to EF. Though you will add some of the artifacts you have listed and you may have to punch in to reduce vignetting. But we don't know until the combination is tested. If you get your hands on the camera with the speedbooster, that would be an interesting test to do for folks who want to shoot 2x.
 
Hey Jarred, I don't want to add your ever growing amount of emails and I figured the information may help others here as well. If one were to try and obtain a stormtrooper komodo should we contact our rep or send you an email? I started digging through older posts but can't remember/find what to do for one.

If someone else has information about it or can send me the post number that'd be great!

Thanks!
 
Phil Holland said:
One unspoken good thing about REDCODE RAW is generally if the camera loses power for some reason your R3D take usually records and creates a good end of file. I've seen that happen over the years due to cranes and junk pulling power and shockingly the takes are there.
Click to expand...
I was originally going to just quote this to emphasise how important this kind of feature is. But I noticed something else: this is very film-like. If the battery dies on a film camera, or if the film just runs out, you don't lose your footage.
 
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