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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

It ain't the camera: It's YOU !

Hey Will,
Did a quick pass in RCX Pro with proper levels. Here are my R3D grabs and RMD as well as these 2 full res tiff's. Right click and open in a new tab to view full size images. It definitely looks like compression. If you view these at 100% look to the pine trees and the dark side of the rock. It has that blocky compression noise.
http://matthayslett.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/WillR3DandTiff.zip
A001_C035_0723K7.0000000.jpg


A001_C030_042552.0000000.jpg
 
Looking through piles of footage with "linear." Dunno, G, something is not adding up here.
 
Yup...

Now we are comming close to the same page. Thanks for the info.

As to your question, nope, and you really don't need or want that. If you need to check if the parts of you image you want to give priority to "hold", go redlogfilm/320/5600

When you learn to read that image, you have all the info you need about it.

As to your particular image, there are a few additional issues.

1st the diffusion from the damp of the water

2nd the lens. There is a bit of a difference between the 18-50 and say a master or a RPP on shots with much detail. For closeups it's good, but if you really need that detail, I allways cut away those shots from the 18-50


3rd, you shot at T22.
The lense works "ok" from 5,6 to 8..,

Even masters gets kinda "not so nice" at 22

But all these decissions (lens and exposurewise) are actually yours, and the result is kinda as expected with the choiseses you made...
 
Gunleik,

You know this is "compression" what are you learned since this post?

Gunleik Groven said:
Sure! But with tons of small motion in leaves or grass or waves in the sea, the difference in compression between high-detail frames, used to be a stress test. Early on, you could even make the camera go down under such conditions, because it didn't handle them... :) (Looooooong time ago).
Click to expand...

It seems to be the issue persists, even if in a lesser form.

Gunleik Groven said:
I think for complex scenes like these, lower rezz and no HDRx may be of advantage, in addition to lower compression...

Just a hunch...
Click to expand...

I was thinking HDRX might be a way to improve this shot, did you ever follow through on your hunch?
 
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Gunleik is definitely right on the lens part. That 18-50 is pretty soft, and never go below t8. But that isn't the cause of the compression artifacts, but definitely contributed to the softness of the image.
 
Matt, compression gets worse with underexposure added. If he wants those trees, use a grad, expose higher, shoot t11 on a masteror redecide. At those exposurelevels they will not look good anyway.

Next question is: what makes them important?

Hahahahahaha

I think making choices in what tou want from an image is part of the... Creative thingy, for better or worse...
 
Yup, my fault. How can I expect good results without an ND kit on a sunny day. That problem has been fixed and is good for those out there reading this. We've done a little good tonight G, thanks for the help.

Gunleik Groven said:
3rd, you shot at T22.
The lense works "ok" from 5,6 to 8..,
Click to expand...
 
Will Keir said:
Yup, my fault. How can I expect good results without an ND kit on a sunny day. That problem has been fixed and is good for those out there reading this. We've done a little good tonight G, thanks for the help.
Click to expand...

You can't if you cannot shoot with a higher shutter...

I try to say that iaperture is to controll dof.
Shutter/nd's are there to controll exposure.

It is a bit simplistic, but I find it is a good way to understand your tools...

Thanks, btw!
 
Will Keir said:
Now my image SOFT!?!?! WTF hehehe :)
Click to expand...

haha sorry, nothing is in sharp focus. I was looking at 100% to see the focal plane or see what was sharp and couldn't find it haha.
 
There not important but when they start dancing like "Mexican Jumping Beans" on the big screen, we got problems.

Gunleik Groven said:
Next question is: what makes them important?
Click to expand...
 
Will Keir said:
Pic's look good but let's see the moving ones.
Click to expand...

I'm on an old laptop so that would take a while. I can tell you at 100% it still dances. If you take my RMD in that zip folder and apply it to your clips you can check it out on your system.
 
That's pretty wise, glad we are getting this knowledge out there.

I could have shuttered down to get the proper exposure too.

Gunleik Groven said:
I try to say that iaperture is to controll dof.
Shutter/nd's are there to controll exposure.
Click to expand...
 
Will Keir said:
There not important but when they start dancing like "Mexican Jumping Beans" on the big screen, we got problems.
Click to expand...

Then... Push them down. They are underexposed and soft, so just "black them out" hahahaha

They make no sense and got no love from you when you shot them.
So don't force them to take focus by bringing them up!

Lol

Make decissions.

Cheers!

G
 
Matt,

What is a good lens to use for wides like this? Duclos Tonkia 11-16? Angie Rouge DP 16-42?

I've sold my RPZ "sigma" 18-50mm.

Matt Ryan said:
haha sorry, nothing is in sharp focus. I was looking at 100% to see the focal plane or see what was sharp and couldn't find it haha.
Click to expand...
 
You went through all that effort, I'll give it a look. Thanks Matt. 43 minutes on the download.

Matt Ryan said:
I'm on an old laptop so that would take a while. I can tell you at 100% it still dances. If you take my RMD in that zip folder and apply it to your clips you can check it out on your system.
Click to expand...
 
Will Keir said:
Matt,

What is a good lens to use for wides like this? Duclos Tonkia 11-16? Angie Rouge DP 16-42?

I've sold my RPZ "sigma" 18-50mm.
Click to expand...

Tokina is soft up to 14mm, Angie is good, but RPP's, or even the RPZ 17-50 is a good lens. They are all sharper than the 18-50 minus the tokina. Just don't close them down too much or they all get soft and ugly.
 
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