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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Epic & old glass

Thanks Nick and Kobe!
Kobe.
I really love that M when exposed withing its limits.
100% agree the M was a great one.
I wish an alternative did exist to swap in a friendly way the MX OLPF to the M OLPF.
B.
 
Another Hassy portrait. Scarlet.

380865_10151360362785645_866855784_n.jpg
 
Dear fellows,

What about Mamiya glass?
I have a couple proposed for buying.

I do have 35mm 50mm 85mm 1.4 zeiss
And some Sigma and Canon too.

Is Mamiya worth it?
Originally tilt-shift and others. These 5 lenses originally were 10.000 Euro. I can buy for 2500,- Euro.

Cheers
 
Dear fellows,

What about Mamiya glass?
I have a couple proposed for buying.

I do have 35mm 50mm 85mm 1.4 zeiss
And some Sigma and Canon too.

Is Mamiya worth it?
Originally tilt-shift and others. These 5 lenses originally were 10.000 Euro. I can buy for 2500,- Euro.

Cheers

We use the Mamiya 645 on a MIrex adaptor, works nicely. Some of batman Imax was shot on Mamiya glass, I think the 150 f2.8. They are very sharp and high contrast. if you can find them the S versions have metal barrels and later coating, I think same or similar to the N version. Some do breathe though.
 
Dear fellows,

What about Mamiya glass?
I have a couple proposed for buying.

I do have 35mm 50mm 85mm 1.4 zeiss
And some Sigma and Canon too.

Is Mamiya worth it?
Originally tilt-shift and others. These 5 lenses originally were 10.000 Euro. I can buy for 2500,- Euro.

Cheers

As Dave says, Mamiya lenses were used on Batman. If you like to T/S, then any good Medium format lens will do the trick.
 
Thanks Matt! We worked hard in RCX to get them there! Those old Hassy's help though. Love that old Zeiss T* coating...

Which Hassy lens is that? 150? DOF looks thin for that... 250?

Given all the discussion of skin tones recently, I'd love to see you post an RMD or a screen shot of RCX that gives some insight into what yielded the skin rendition you're getting.
 
Which Hassy lens is that? 150? DOF looks thin for that... 250?

Given all the discussion of skin tones recently, I'd love to see you post an RMD or a screen shot of RCX that gives some insight into what yielded the skin rendition you're getting.

Yup thats the 150, but the 2.8....not the F4. That's the secret sauce. Wide open. My hunch is that because the image circle is so HUGE, and we are shooting down the CENTER OF THE GLASS, it's actually alarmingly sharp even wide open. But then the Tilt gives the rest a nice dreamy out-of-focusness.

I will post an R3D tomorrow, when back in office.
 
The hassy images are impresssive!

Thanks Gunleik. From you that means A LOT. I've been avid fan of this thread for a long time. I'm a long time, first time (haha).

Happy to add something to this unbelievable thread. I, like you, believe that the awesome RED sensor can be given a lot of humanity with disparate, rare and unusual glass. History yields personality, if you are willing to search long and hard for it.

Mazel Tov, my friend.
 
Here is something I shot as some tests for the Angenieux 25-250mm, https://vimeo.com/54916631. I shot it over 4 years ago and I'm pretty sure the only shot in it that is not the 25-250 is the macro of the beetle. While I think the lens is kind of the Volkswagen of the film industry it still kicks arse.
 
Here is something I shot as some tests for the Angenieux 25-250mm, https://vimeo.com/54916631. I shot it over 4 years ago and I'm pretty sure the only shot in it that is not the 25-250 is the macro of the beetle. While I think the lens is kind of the Volkswagen of the film industry it still kicks arse.

WOW. Looks like I'm watching a 60's film!!!! AWESOME!!!!
 
Those old Angie 10x's T3.9 look great on a modern sensor, like the EPIC's. Make sure you get them CLA'd. You would be amazed at how sharp these can be properly cleaned and collimated (and the zoom curve corrected) Mine resolves 200+ line pairs after a tune-up at Duclos. Unfortunate;y folks are catching on as the prices are going up.

Not as bright or as sharp as a 24-290, but way less expensive. Very organic look on a EPIC.

This was shot on a RED One with the Angie 10x T3.9 (not by me): http://www.bealecorner.org/red/extnightBM2k_1k.mov
 
i have a big question that no one seems to be able to answer, at least no one that is selling the lens heads i see. sometimes on forums you see a lens for sale, a cooke, baltar or kowa, but its not the entire lens, its the lens head only(ive learned) no mount, no helical focusing(i just learned that term)...so what do you do with that? is there places to can make the focusing mechanism and mount? or is it a do it yourself project? what the deal, what do you do?
thanks in advance!
 
i have a big question that no one seems to be able to answer, at least no one that is selling the lens heads i see. sometimes on forums you see a lens for sale, a cooke, baltar or kowa, but its not the entire lens, its the lens head only(ive learned) no mount, no helical focusing(i just learned that term)...so what do you do with that? is there places to can make the focusing mechanism and mount? or is it a do it yourself project? what the deal, what do you do?
thanks in advance!

The kowas and lomos are usually the anamorphic element. then you can basically put that infont of your spherical lens and get an anamorphic, however that takes some enginering skills. But it's actually not so pricy to have done to order as long as you have the bits needed.. but that is only in comparison to the price of a working lens, still it's usually quite a bit of money involved. The rest goes as spare parts etc.
 
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