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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

DSMC3 Wish list

Definitely internal ND. So many advantages for convenience, speed, and image. Spent the last year shooting on Alexa mini and the internal ND is the hardest part about picking up a red.
Improved boot time and general stability improvements would be nice too.
 
Joel Voelker said:
Definitely internal ND. So many advantages for convenience, speed, and image. Spent the last year shooting on Alexa mini and the internal ND is the hardest part about picking up a red.
Improved boot time and general stability improvements would be nice too.
Click to expand...

To me thats probably not what to wish for.
Having a lot of glas between lens and sensor can cause problems. But sure at some ocations internal ND is great, behind lens filters are great etc. But the strive, I think would be to build next gen red cameras in a way so that the sensor is closer to the front of the camera. That way it would leave more room for different mount options and also behind lens filtering.

Just to explain, if the sensor was pretty much flush with the front of the camera. Then the PL mount for example would need to be seated like about 1.8 cm more infront of camera. That would leave all kinds of room to put ND torrents, back lens filtering and also it would allow for lens mounts with even shorter flange distance. The problem trough all the generations of red cameras in this regard, is the fact that the sensor is seated so far in to the body.
 
Autofocus on par with Canon C-series when using EF lenses.
 
I know Red's main focus is on R3D (which makes total sense BTW), but I would kill for 4k ProRes 4444 up to 60fps and HQ up to 120fps (or 4444 up to 120fps but I don't know how possible that is). So many productions prefer the ProRes workflow even when I offer R3D+Proxies straight out of camera. Would help me preserve more image quality when R3D is not accepted by post.

Wants but not needs (mostly module based):
- 5pin lemo or BNC for timecode sync
- 2nd SDI (happy to lose HDMI) with separate overlay options
- Repositioning of power port for use with sharkfins
- 3pin fisher for R/S build into module
- Potentially a moveable module that changes camera settings - love the sidekick but can get buried with transmitters/receivers on camera - weirdly, something slightly similar to the VaricamLT control unit, but a bit smaller.
- Please keep the internal mics! Saves me so many darn times, it's very helpful.

EDIT: Welp, the new production module seems to cover most of my requests....
 
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Along the lines of what others have mentioned, a modular front end seems like a good idea. With the sensor as close to the front of the camera body as possible, then a front plate to accommodate; the shortest FFD lens mounts, standard FFD lens mounts, or a standard FFD lens mount with a ND filter wheel module attached behind it as well.
 
a documentary style camera line like the raven but with E mount, sick phase detection auto focusing like current dslr, super 35mm sensor, great in camera audio with xlr input, much improved wifi for video monitoring like Sony A7s and Gopro's.
 
Wil Wong said:
Not in any particular order:
1. Built-in ND
2. Less Power (better for batteries to last longer)
3. Less Heat (would be nice to be Fan-less one day) and super quiet
4. No black shading needed (done internally for you if still required)
5. Software - Faster boot-up times
6. Software - Menus that are smooth, quick, more responsive, and animated (like Apple - i.e. pull down menus)
7. Software - Image stabilization using the gyroscope metadata (perhaps done in post) or internal sensor gimbal
8. Improved Audio - phantom power, limiters, improved pre-amp, auto levels
9. Improved auto-focus (see Sony)
10. More wireless integration (for iPads, audio, timecode, follow-focus, video)...all built-in
11. High Bright Monitors with higher resolutions
12. Does not need to warm up and cool off. No temperature to worry about.
13. Use CFast or standard media not RED media (cheaper price media)
14. Have 2 media ports module for redundancy recording OR for hot-swap during live recordings
15. 4K FF camera with recode raw 1:1 ratio (yeah, probably asking too much on this one)
Click to expand...

Sounds like you want a RED sensor in a C200/C300 mk 2 with a better monitor.
 
- CMO stabiliser
- instant pixel to pixel toggle
- no HDSDI signal delay for better monitoring and framing
- 4k HDMI/HDSDI output
- advanced face and eye tracking tools for focus
- lower the center of the lens mount
- 2 Sonosax audio preamp (on TA3)
- Support for future Global shutter sensor

and as said

- better (or no) fan and air intake design for a 0 noise camera.

;-)
 
Reducing the fan noise would be the main thing I'd like to see. It's not always noticeable, but it's kind of crazy how loud it can get at times.

I'd be willing to sacrifice the small form-factor of the camera for zero-noise cooling in high ambient temperatures. A cooling module I could attach to the back of the camera body would be preferred.
 
Les Hillis said:
Reducing the fan noise would be the main thing I'd like to see. It's not always noticeable, but it's kind of crazy how loud it can get at times.

I'd be willing to sacrifice the small form-factor of the camera for zero-noise cooling in high ambient temperatures. A cooling module I could attach to the back of the camera body would be preferred.
Click to expand...

Where can I preorder your module?
 
Karim D. Ghantous said:
E mount. Especially for the Raven.
Click to expand...

This. Or the L mount (which Panasonic/Sigma is using) would be even better! (Kinefinity's Kinemount would be nice too... but not happening I'm sure, as RED wouldn't want to go down that path)

Plus of course what we all want and dream of: cheaper! (not just the body! Use non-propriety SSDs)

Third wish: internal NDs.
 
Patrick Tresch said:
Peletier has been spoken about various time but never was an option. I assume the energy used is too high for the desired effect.
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I don't recall seeing any actual tests or calculations relating specifically to cooling the air going into a RED camera. From what I gather, the Peltier panels in general aren't that energy efficient and generate just as much heat as cooling, but they only have to be efficient and effective enough for this particular application (occasional localized cooling when in high ambient temps). The ideal being to keep the camera fan noise as low as possible low in-between takes as well as during recording. I might get some and have a play around with them to see for myself why they haven't been used before.

Edit - Have got some bits and pieces on the way (might be able to use them for other things too), will let you all know what I find out.
 
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Perhaps RED could consider changing the existing design using:
+) a large aluminium heatsink to soak up heat at rate of 90W
+) and high speed fans that can ramp up airflow though the core to cool this Aluminium heatsink.

To:
+) Removal of internal heatsink (ie no mass of aluminium required as a heat store)
+) Coating inside with Pyrolytic material (which can wick heat away 7 x faster than aluminium)
+) Coat the outside surface acrea of the Camera with Pyrolytic material (passive cooling without delay due to very high speed of heat dissipation)
+) Upgrade ASIC from 14nm(?) to 7nm process would reduce consumed power by 50% for the same performance levels.
+) change exit port of fans to slowly change air impedance (ie a silencer).
+) Dimple the outside of port to reduce turbulnace

The above changes by themselves would likely more than halve the amount of heat that air flow was tying to remove (and greatly reduce the fan sounds)
+) Lastly - have a slot Pyrolytic extension to the internal cooling system.
+) This could ‘pull’ the heat to an external (large) 45W cooling system for when absolute quiet is required.
+) Internal fan would no be required to activate.

The problem with using a Thermionic cooler is that you’d need circa 300W of power (to have a 45W cooling effect).
You would still need to have an external heatsink to dissipate 45W - but with a far higher temperature differnential, the heatsink could be smaller (although might be dangerously hot in dry conditions).

AJ
 
Another vote for quieter fans and/or new design altogether that would be make cooling more efficient thus the camera less noisy.

Sounds like A LOT of us care about camera noise.
 
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