Chris Henze
Well-known member
Any feeling for how long the RedVolt lasts in the side handle compared to the standard Epic?
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Any feeling for how long the RedVolt lasts in the side handle compared to the standard Epic?
Any feeling for how long the RedVolt lasts in the side handle compared to the standard Epic?
2 - Mark sometimes says "shot at 250 ISO - but then graded to whatever". This is confusing. What does it matter what you "shot at" if it is still 100% RAW? All you do with a RAW camera is "meter at" or "assume that the sensor is" a certain ISO, what you select as metadata has zero effect on the recorded data. Since it also says it's deliberately underexposed, then Mark was not "metering at" 250 - because then it would be metered-for/ accurately exposed for 250. It makes me question, is ISO still 100% RAW?
ISO was never "raw", it was metadata applied to the raw data capture itself, which was always captured the exact same regardless of the ISO setting (but always completely dependent on the physical exposure settings - shutter, aperture, ND). Conversely, that's also why people still continue to ask "what is RED's native ISO." Whatever it captures at it's base, is the sensors "native ISO" (for lack of a better term) and lowering/brightening it via ISO/FLUT/Exposure/Brightness/Curves/GammaSpace/Etc. is applied to that base raw data -- which was always a FIXED/finite capture.
Dragon seems to be different. It appears that as you adjust ISO, it doesn't just move middle grey like it does on MX, but it actually periscopes it's ~16 stops of DR around that setting (which, to be honest, has always been a better system, as it's basically the exact same as above, but you are no longer "fixed" to that "native ISO" capture.) Other cameras do this via amplification and then bake it in to whatever codec -- RED did the exact same thing, but didn't bake. Dragon does it differently again, only this time it's really not contingent on a native/base ISO of the sensor... Or at least that's how I understand it...
...something tells me I really fubared that explanation.
EDIT: Bare in mind this is all anecdotal, based on that "~16stops (6+/10-?) at 200 and 2000" comment Jarred made.... The post where he said lowering to 100ISO means less ND, which means less IR contamination and glass in front of the lens.
I think the reason for the improved compression is that random sensor noise hiding in the dark is reduced with Dragon, and anything that changes on a pixel-level for every frame is hell on compression therefore rendering better results within similar compression ratios with the improved S/N of Dragon
But... Either it's RAW or is' not - if it's RAW there is no reason to mention what you "shot at" because it really doesn't matter - because an image "shot at" 250 ISO and later adjusted to 6400 in RCX will look identical to an image "shot at" 100 000 ISO and adjusted to 6400 in RCX - all you can talk about is what you "metered for" or were "aiming for" in terms of a final ISO in post..
And... if it's a floating "periscope" of 16 stops, as opposed to a flexing gamma curve, but still RAW - that means the recorded dynamic range is much more than 16 stops, because in post I can layer many different ISO exposures in the same frame and composite them with windows. That would be great, if that is the case. Within that, there would still be an ideal sweet spot ISO to choose for metering, with the most latitude - way more than you need, but still - at either end.
Mark,
I'd still love to know the max frame rate (at present) of all the resolutions. Knowing that they may change before release.
Mark, perhaps I've overlooked this, but what f stops did you use on the car shots:
frames 15 and 24 from the top?
Hey Toia, are you allowed to post a tif/dpx (in RLF)? I'd love to see what any of those 17:1 frames look like at something better than vimeo/jpeg quality. Jim?... Jarred? Bueller?
There's lots to love here - enough to be worth $9500, that's for sure. But- And I say this because I assume constructive comments from users are actually welcome:
On day close-ups, saturation of skin is still anemic. Maybe this will be 100% fixed by new color science - in which cases great. But I do hope it is, at least as an option. What I do prefer about all Sony and Canon cameras is that out of the box, skin is well saturated. No secondaries needed. Maybe this is just a choice Mark made - in which case fair enough.
glad this one is getting a fresh start....
still wondering about compression and workflow...
17:1 seems unbelievable to me, i try to stay at 6:1 with my epic...
also: you mentioned somewhere that you were able to play back full 6k in RCX at 1/4 on your mbp?!?!
it somehow does not make much sense that we are getting more pixels with more DR at a much more flexible iso range and get smaller files that are easier to work with? don't get me wrong....i am all for it....any input on this?
Any feeling for how long the RedVolt lasts in the side handle compared to the standard Epic?
I've decided that I will shoot at mainly 250iso for almost everything, only because I felt the image was smoothest at that point... The highlights are safe if you watch your histogram and this ISO will also save me loading up on the ND's .
Hence why I'm keen as hell for the MOTION mount.
Interesting. I'm real curious about shooting at lower ISOs as well. I have a feeling I'll expose/light for midtones with ISO 500-1000 in mind to give me more "meat" in the grade. Eager to test out and find where that sweet spot is for the fattest possible "digital negative". We'll see where that actually lands in regards to the histogram and what Raw sees.
I like to explore some not so typical grades in post and enjoy pushing those boundaries, stretching values and moving color around a lot. Mysterium-X w/ REDCODE is fairly liberating on that front already. Curious where Dragon brings this to the next level is for sure.
ISO 2000 and I'd say up to around ISO 4000 are certainly going to be usable straight out of camera from what I'm seeing. Maybe even up to ISO 6400 based on your tests here Mark because that boat in the water looks rather lovely to my eyes.
Mike and Robert, your both correct...
I personally only use the ISO settings to make things brighter for the video village monitors, or if I need to see in the dark, I up the ISO just so I'm able to see what Im doing...
But the fact is, your not changing sensor ISO, your only changing the Metadata settings so you can actually see deeper into what the sensor is capturing. thats all...
So yes Robert your correct, there is and was no need for me to share ISO settings, but in saying that this was the only way for me to show people noise in dark situations, which was to push the META DATA ISO upwards into the 2000, 4000, 6400 ISO range (even though I exposed for a 250iso shot) as this was the only way to do induce noise dramatically.
Silly as it sounds, its was the only way to demonstrate hi ISO range to everyone.
For example : Just say your running in gunning and you chase a man from the bright sunlight as he races into a dark warehouse... He runs from a F22 scene into a f4 scene... Or from a 250iso scene into a 4000iso scene. The question I posed my self was... How much range or how much can I lift in the darks / shadows? As a RAW sensor goes yes... you can almost pull this shot off without even touching your aperture... and this was the reason for that particular test.
As a base ISO goes for the sensor.. and after all our testing and even after much discussion we did not really come to a final conclusion as what that might be...
I thought it might have been between 320-400iso.. My AC felt it was around 400-800Iso... others will think its is between 800iso and 2000iso... Its subjective. At the end of the day, people will park the ISO where they are most happy.
I've decided that I will shoot at mainly 250iso for almost everything, only because I felt the image was smoothest at that point... The highlights are safe if you watch your histogram and this ISO will also save me loading up on the ND's .
Hence why I'm keen as hell for the MOTION mount.
Mark - I meant no offense to your daughter. I felt that both the man and your daughter looked a little flat and a little off - still what that slightly excessive yellow I always grade away with secondaries, but wish I didn't have to (although it's already better than uncorrected MX)- it has nothing to do with their actual skin tones, as they both looked off in the same way. To my credit, I have something a little fancier than a retina display here, and much more precise, calibrated every two weeks to within 0.3% of Red 709 perfection using a Hubble probe that is itself calibrated every 6 months, with perfect 5600K backlighting on a wall panel painted with special neutral grey paint. It's not my monitors/projectors leading me astray. The problem really is there, although it's subtle.
But still, you would agree that this came off pretty well for quick and dirty test footage, no? I'm pretty sure you are not suggesting Mark can't get a proper skin tone, so I am assuming you are not laying the blame for the "bad skin" on Mark, correct?
Rob, I think you are like those people who are known as a "Nose" for sniffing perfume or a "Palette" for tasting wine or cheese. I think you have proved that you have brain/eye coordination that well exceeds the norm.
Thanks for pointing out these flaws that the rest of us cannot see.