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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

DJI RONIN PRO SUPPORT

So after having our Ronin for two weeks and using it extensively on a multiple day job we have started to see an issue. We first started out properly balancing the camera on the gimbal (tilt, roll, vertical tilt and pan) and then calibrated the system. This work correctly on day one and the rig was fine. One day three however we wanted to use a different lens so we rebalanced the camera and attempted to recalibrate the system. This time the calibration hung up at approx 60% and the camera kept jolting forward and then back (after the camera titled down in the calibration process). In order to get out of this, I had to reboot the gimbal and restart the iOS app. I tried to rebalance the camera multiple time being careful to get it as close as possible before booting up the gimbal again. After three failed attempts, we were running out of time on set, so we decided to bypass the calibration and hope that the last calibration would work okay.

This ended up working okay for us but not perfect. I noticed a couple of times after having the full rig powered on that the motors would just die and then turn back on while operating. I assume that happened because they were working too hard. So I would kill the motor via the iOS app and try to check the balance on the fly. The odd thing was I noticed that "killing the motor" on the app or the Ronin radio controller wouldn't full kill the motors. I could feel some resistance in the gimbal and I didn't feel comfortable rebalancing the camera until I powered down the gimbal fully as opposed to just killing the motors.

Do these issues come from possibly the camera moving over time and maybe some loose bolts? Is there a way to reset my entire system to get the calibration to work properly as opposed to hanging up 60% thru?

Thanks in advance for any wisdom.
Kenny
 
Peter Majtan said:
Yes to what Tito have said - Futaba is the best to go and in particular the 14-SG. Once you buy this remote you won't need another. The ability to control 14 channels spread across two receivers is another plus. You can bind one with the Ronin and mount secondary on the camera to control various accessories - for example a START/STOP switch, or a revolutionary FIZ control I will be releasing later this year... ;o)

:sifone: Peter
Click to expand...

Peter,

Let me know about the FIZ son as you can please. Have a specific use for it.
 
When you initially balance the Ronin the first time it is a good idea to calibrate the system. After that there is no need to calibrate the system unless you have drift in one of the three axis. That is according to the manual, so there is no need to recalibrate after a lens or camera change.


Wayne Mann
 
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Hi DJ,

How about making the other half of the DJI Ronin quick release that the handle bar attaches too for us guys that will be using the Ronin on Multirotors. I will develop my own soft mount system, but I would like to use the quick release that DJI provided so that I can go from Multirotor to hand held in a matter of seconds. The other option is for me to take the quick release dovetail part off of the gimbal and use those four 4mm threaded holes to attach the gimbal to the softmount.


Wayne Mann
 
If money is no object then go get the Futaba 18MZ it is about 5x the price of 14SG. 18MZ is so much easier to program and get around the menus than the 14SG which actually is a novice radio. Futaba used to make the 12Z (USD1500) which was nice professional grade radio but no longer made. Today Futaba has nothing in between the 14SG and 18MZ which is for pro pilots unfortunate. But if you want the best radio from programming and usability stand point and you have the money then 18MZ. I have hard time seeing what is the point of upgrading the Ronin radio to 14 SG. Ronin TX has the functionality already and it works ok.

I will use my 12Z to the very end and maybe then get the 18MZ but I would not buy the 14SG due to its hideous user interface.
 
Patrick - calling the 14-SG novice is like saying that Scarlet is not a pro camera just because there is Epic.
Yes - it doesn't have the huge touch screen UI of the 18-MZ, but it is a very professional - and I dare to say the most common model professionals chose. The UI is clean and very easy to navigate once you learn it properly and comparing its functionality to the stock DJI controller is an insult to the 14-SG. I don't even know where to start to begin to describe why the 14-SG would be a major upgrade to the Ronin. One day I will find the time and explain it...
I have personally seen about dozen pro operators and only one of them had the 18-MZ and another one had Spektrum. The rest were all flying with the 14-SG...

:sifone: Peter
 
Kenny Mosher said:
So after having our Ronin for two weeks and using it extensively on a multiple day job we have started to see an issue. We first started out properly balancing the camera on the gimbal (tilt, roll, vertical tilt and pan) and then calibrated the system. This work correctly on day one and the rig was fine. One day three however we wanted to use a different lens so we rebalanced the camera and attempted to recalibrate the system. This time the calibration hung up at approx 60% and the camera kept jolting forward and then back (after the camera titled down in the calibration process). In order to get out of this, I had to reboot the gimbal and restart the iOS app. I tried to rebalance the camera multiple time being careful to get it as close as possible before booting up the gimbal again. After three failed attempts, we were running out of time on set, so we decided to bypass the calibration and hope that the last calibration would work okay.

This ended up working okay for us but not perfect. I noticed a couple of times after having the full rig powered on that the motors would just die and then turn back on while operating. I assume that happened because they were working too hard. So I would kill the motor via the iOS app and try to check the balance on the fly. The odd thing was I noticed that "killing the motor" on the app or the Ronin radio controller wouldn't full kill the motors. I could feel some resistance in the gimbal and I didn't feel comfortable rebalancing the camera until I powered down the gimbal fully as opposed to just killing the motors.

Do these issues come from possibly the camera moving over time and maybe some loose bolts? Is there a way to reset my entire system to get the calibration to work properly as opposed to hanging up 60% thru?

Thanks in advance for any wisdom.
Kenny
Click to expand...

Hey Kenny,

Not quite sure what's going on with your unit, but Wayne is right in saying that you don't need to calibrate the unit at all unless you notice a drift in any of the axis. Sometimes when you power up the Ronin it will drift for few seconds before finding its balance - this can especially happen when you are not on stable platform when you power it up. But unless you see a drift in the axis during normal operation or resting - no need to recalibrate it. I can imagine that perhaps during the calibration someone bumped into the stand or the Ronin itself or it was exposed to wind or some unstable platform which could potentially confuse the calibration algorithm. You need to have the Ronin on a solid support without being exposed to any movement or outside forces (such as strong wind) during the calibration process...

When you change your lens or the camera config in general - all you need to do is the Auto-Tune, not the Auto-Calibration...

I would reset the unit to factory default and try calibrating again in a controlled environment - after you have balanced the rig first properly...

:sifone: Peter
 
Is there a self test mode for Ronin, the sort of thing to check all sensors, motors and cables are working fully and correctly ? Im thinking now of the smooth track functionality.
 
Peter Majtan said:
Patrick - calling the 14-SG novice is like saying that Scarlet is not a pro camera just because there is Epic.
:sifone: Peter
Click to expand...

Ok Peter but since Scarlet has exact same user interface as Epic your comparison is little unfair to my argument since both share the same user experience. And this I think is the beauty and genious of RED system, same user experience through out all cameras.
 
I agree with Peter, the Futaba 14SG is a really good radio. It is light years ahead of any Spectrum system as far as reliability goes. I have been a Professional R/C Helicopter pilot for nearly thirty years and most of that time I have been with Futaba. I have two of the 18MZs, two of the 14MZs which I use for camera mounts and two of the older 9ZWC radios. The 18MZ is a wonderful radio. It is right up there with sliced bread and toilet paper, but it is expensive and not necessary for camera mount applications. Since Futaba makes the R/C radio for the Ronin I have no issues with using it as long as you don't need focus control or aperture control when using the Ronin on a Multirotor. I do need those things so I use my 14MZ on the Ronin.


Wayne Mann
 
I have a question that I can't seem to find the answer to. I tried mounting my 5D Mark ii with the 24-105 f4 lens to my Ronin yesterday and everything went fine until I tried mounting the lens support bracket. It will not go low enough. If I pre mount the lens support bracket and then install the 5D the support will hold the front part of the camera body up off of the camera mounting plate. The camera (5D) obviously needs a spacer plate between it and the mounting plate, unless I am missing something. Any ideas?


Wayne Mann
 
I use the baseplate for the Zacuto "pincher" (HDMI protector). This raises the camera up about 1/4".
 
Hello everybody....

Hello everybody....

I'd like to re-introduce myself to the group since I have been a red-user member since the 2008 but mostly active in the 3D forum. My name is Pedro Guimaraes, SOC. I am a Union camera operator living in Los Angeles (also a steadicam operator) some of you might even know me already. I am a RONIN Beta-Tester. I also Designed and operated on the shot for the Ronin Promo "Brainstorm". I started a company called www.cinemilled.com we are making some pretty innovative and usefull RONIN accessories. Please visit our website and check out our products. Follow us on FB or Instagram to get all the latest news on all of our upcoming products. There will be new things every other week!!! (I hope)

Oh yeah....I'm also the guy in all the Ronin ads!!!

10454900_728808727165909_1472796290253674810_o_zps0873209d.jpg


Brainstorm watch here: http://youtu.be/b333dB_cOvg
BTS- http://youtu.be/XlqVABCrX5A

So feel free to ask questions about anything, I've had some time with the Ronin......in my hands and out of my hands!! As you can see here I put the ronin on my steadicam and even made a low budget cable cam. Check out the Demo video.....

https://vimeo.com/103361343

Ronin on my steadicam

IMG_4374-300x225.jpg


Ronin on my makeshift cable cam.

IMG_4804-300x300.jpg


On my panther tripod

IMG_4385-300x292.jpg
 
Im not going to tell anyone about Cinemilled - just got mine today and if everyone knows about it and how good your machining is it will be hard to get your next one! Its packed up and leaving in the morning - thanks for getting it to me fast Pedro!
 
Im looking in to using a small lipo for powering Epic. via an XT 90 connector, any do's or dont's for these batteries. Using breakers/fuses etc for Epic ? Mounting points on Ronin etc. Im assuming its all obvious but would like to know any real world experiences
 
Impressions and issues

Impressions and issues

First, like to thank Peter for all the support and help he's given on this topic. Definitely help me learn how to balance properly and to go all wireless.

I'm starting to get a good feel for my Ronin now after having it for about a month. Shot a music video last weekend with Red Epic, Ronin, RRM wireless, and paralinx.
My setup has been working great and the shots almost feel like it was on a dolly. We're able to shoot for 6 hours on a single battery, that's due to turning it off between long breaks.

Briefcase mode, smooth follow, it all working well for me. No wobble or bad motor cut off issues thus far.

Issues:
1. I have the RRM wireless cut off problem others have expressed. After a quick message to RRM, they sent me a firmware update and bam! problem solved. RRM now works like a charm!

2. I noticed the clamp that locks in the dovetail plate does get loose after a hand full of opening and closing. Moving from location to location, I find myself having to retighten that hexscrew to the clamp, otherwise the camera will slowly slide on the mount.

3. I also noticed on the top mount from the gimbal that slides onto the arm is also not super tight. I will tighten it to the max, when I hold the top mount and push down from the arm, there is a very slight wiggle room there (prob less than half a millimeter), regardless of how tight I turn the knob. It hasn't seem to impact stability at all, but just wondering if this is normal or should the top mount be absolutely no wiggle room??
 
Ned Wilson said:
Ronin spare batteries, when?

This one battery per rig situation is not cool at all. DJI should know a pro user needs at least two or three. In spite of the great price, this batt situation is unacceptable. WTF? When and who will have them?
Click to expand...

We received an initial shipment of Ronin batteries, which are now gone. But we expect another shipment to arrive in the next 5-7 days.

http://hotrodcameras.com/dji-ronin-battery.html
 
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