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DJI RONIN - independent review and in-depth test

So if you want to mount the gimbal to a multi-rotor or another platform (like steadicam - more about this later) without the handles - you are looking at 3390 g
Ah, here's the information I was really looking for. 3390 g plus Epic & lens & a battery... oh boy. Not sure my octo can lift that much, to be honest :/
 
Ah, here's the information I was really looking for. 3390 g plus Epic & lens & a battery... oh boy. Not sure my octo can lift that much, to be honest :/

You and me - time to build a new one to safely handle the Ronin. On the other hand my Bergen Turbine Observer can handle 10 kg (22 lbs) payload...

:sifone: Peter
 
So we're pretty much looking at between 7.5 - 8kg for Ronin/Scarlet/Cine lens/battery to fly on a copter. The combined weight of my current hexa/gimbal/GH2 is the same weight! I'm also thinking it's time to beef it up.
 
I am really impressed with the base-plate and the integrated 15mm modular rod solution. The build quality is outstanding while keeping it featherweight - all the while without compromising the strength...

Before I dive into details I wanted to share the bellow pic (please excuse the blurriness) - I am holding up the 3.5 kg basic cam by the end of the rods and they exhibit absolutely no flex or bending. I really can't express how solid this feels - I am yet to see stronger implementation of a front-mounted 15mm rod support.
Needless to say - I will not worry about supporting any reasonable gear (and no - Optimos are not reasonable! Heheheheh) from these...:

Ronin_base_plate_strength.jpg



Here is the basic base plate...

Ronin_base_plate_upright.jpg


Ronin_base_plate_upsidedown.jpg



It comes with 6x 15mm rods sections and two of each ¼ and ⅜ bolts...

Ronin_base_plate_pack.jpg



The base-plate on its own weighs just at 130 g ...

Ronin_weight_base_plate.jpg



Fully kitted with all three extensions it is 255 g ...

Ronin_weight_base_plate_pack.jpg



Each individual section weighs only 15 g and adds 67.5 mm (or 2.65")...

Ronin_weight_rod.jpg



The mountain hole spacing does not match between the two larger ⅜'s on the bottom of the camera - but it does align perfectly between the outer ⅜ and the ¼ - which actually adds more lateral stability as these two are further apart. As I have mention before - DJI provides two of each bolts...

Ronin_base_plate_alignment.jpg



Both the mounting holes and the bolts are tapered - and I really love this. Many plates (including RED's own plates for the QR platforms) have a little play between the bolts and the plates - so you need to make sure the plates are aligned before you tighten the bolts.
No so with the Ronin plate - the tapering automatically aligns the plate perfectly with the optical axis of the camera...

Ronin_base_plate_taper.jpg



The bolts themselves use RED's standard adopted 3/16 alan (hex) tool...

Ronin_base_plate_bolts.jpg



Finally - here is the plate with the three basic length sections of the rods on the camera...

Ronin_base_plate_on_cam_1s.jpg


Ronin_base_plate_on_cam_2s.jpg


Ronin_base_plate_on_cam_3s.jpg



The final production run of these plates will also have a locking pin (this prototype did not have it) and as I have said above - will feature the side metric scale markings for precise alignments and will also be available (as an optional accessory) in longer versions to accommodate longer camera(s) and configurations...

:sifone: Peter
 
Peter, and this is probably too early to ask, have you noticed any obvious ways to reduce Ronin's weight for multicopter use via re-machining some parts? Are there any heavy metal parts that could be replaced by carbon fiber ones?
 
Alternatively, can anyone educate me on the best way to increase my multicopter's lifting capability without building a whole new copter?
 
Peter, and this is probably too early to ask, have you noticed any obvious ways to reduce Ronin's weight for multicopter use via re-machining some parts? Are there any heavy metal parts that could be replaced by carbon fiber ones?

I was wondering this myself - but not really. The Ronin is really well thought out design and they have really reduced everything to a bare minimum. While the arms look massive - they are actually super light. The heavy bits are really the motors. But you need such a beefed up motors to handle 16 lbs payloads...

:sifone: Peter
 
Alternatively, can anyone educate me on the best way to increase my multicopter's lifting capability without building a whole new copter?

Stronger motors and larger propellers - if space allows. Other then that - might as well build a new one...

:sifone: Peter
 
Peter, I think you have the 15mm adapter out front upside down. Flipping it over I believes gives the standard hieght for 15mm lws.

Bob - there is a reason for that - that I can't yet reveal. You can easily mount them any way you want - just two bolts holding it to the base plate... ;o)

:sifone: Peter
 
Thank you very much for your replies, Peter. Much appreciated!
 
Very helpful info! Looks like a great piece of equipment.

Bummer about the massive weight. MoVI and H14 are probably going to be the better options for flying, unfortunately.

Thank you Peter! Look forward to reading more.
 
Ronin_base_plate_pack.jpg




BTS VIDEOS OF THE RONIN:



These gimbal designers keep copying each other instead of using proper camera conventions. Tell ell them we need a slotted dovetail , not fixed holes. How are you supposed to get two screws into anything? Freefly is the same way so then they design cage that also requires a screw into the camera's top handle. It's ridiculous, imagine if all steadicams had to do that.

edit: looks like the spacing is specific to epic, so you can get two 3/8-16, but still, a combo of fixed holes and slotted grooves makes more sense for something that needs to be universal.
 
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These gimbal designers keep copying each other instead of using proper camera conventions. Tell ell them we need a slotted dovetail , not fixed holes. How are you supposed to get two screws into anything? Freefly is the same way so then they design cage that also requires a screw into the camera's top handle. It's ridiculous, imagine if all steadicams had to do that.

edit: looks like the spacing is specific to epic, so you can get two 3/8-16, but still, a combo of fixed holes and slotted grooves makes more sense for something that needs to be universal.

Jason - first to clarify - yes, the spacing is made directly for the RED DSMC cameras - but do keep in mind that it uses the spacing between the outer ⅜-16 and the smaller ¼-20 - not between the two ⅜-16.
This is actually good approach as that spacing is further apart then the one between the two ⅜-16's - which in the end provides more lateral stability - and that is absolutely crucial to 3-axis gimbal stabilisation.
This is also the sole reason why 3-axis gimbal makers chose to go this route - any (even tiny) play in the mounting of the dovetail will adversely affect the performance of any gimbal.
So "proper camera conventions" can't apply in such a specialised application...

DJI will also be making other plates - especially for longer-shaped cameras - so people will eventually be able to buy plate specific to their camera...

:sifone: Peter
 
Alternatively, can anyone educate me on the best way to increase my multicopter's lifting capability without building a whole new copter?

Petri you would need much sturdier frame than the one I know you have or atleast had. You would need to get more powerful motors and much sturdier arms. You would probably be better of a coaxial 8 rather than a flat model. The base plates should probably be around 4mm with a quite large circumference and main arms should be in the range of 30mm.

Coaxial design would allow for shorter arms for massive propellers, 18 inch with motors of 200kV and over 1kW power. Anyway to build a suitable copter for lifting 8 kg with reasonable flight times (6 min or so) will require a lot of experience. A quick calc gives me a gigantic payload for batteries as well. The all up weight for such copter would probably be in the range of 15kg or maybe even more.

Personally I would not use any of the commercially available frames for this, unless of course there is something really cool available now.
 
Jason - first to clarify - yes, the spacing is made directly for the RED DSMC cameras -
DJI will also be making other plates - especially for longer-shaped cameras - so people will eventually be able to buy plate specific to their camera...

:sifone: Peter

I'm only pointing out that cameras on steadicams are under the exact same forces and requirements and we typically use one dovetail for all cameras (except sometimes Alexa). Two screws are enough even in slotted grooves and this has been true for decades. A new dovetail for every camera is unnecessary. Don't you think Ronin operators should be to show up on set and be able to mount any camera on their rig?
 
I'm only pointing out that cameras on steadicams are under the exact same forces and requirements and we typically use one dovetail for all cameras (except sometimes Alexa). Two screws are enough even in slotted grooves and this has been true for decades. A new dovetail for every camera is unnecessary. Don't you think Ronin operators should be to show up on set and be able to mount any camera on their rig?

Yes and no Jason. In principal you are correct, but really 3-axis gimbal is a whole new territory.
I agree that slots work (and have been for ages) - but this setup really makes it that much easier and faster.
I do not think there will be a dovetail for each specific camera. Just like the Raptor - I believe that Ronin was primarily designed to handle the RED and as such the first plate is custom tailored to it.
I think the longer plate they are working on will have slots and accommodate most of the other cameras out there...

:sifone: Peter
 
Full rig = 4175 grams or 9.2 lbs if anyone was wondering. Thanks for the info.

Oooooh! This is heavy. Wonder how long one can handhold this plus a camera and lens and follow focus (at the minimum) and shoot.
 
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