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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Beta Camera Build 3.2.13

Sami Sinervä said:
I've been running the 3.2.13 beta all weekend now on my Epic X, and it has worked fine except for one thing: sometimes the camera boots to the monitor half white/black and stays there. Have to do a hard reboot and try again. A few times it's take up to 15 restarts before I got the camera going and no half white/black view. I am very happy with it otherwise, but got to downgrade to be able to work properly with the camera.

If it is possible to send you some kind of log file, where can I find instructions on how to do it? Thanks.

Gear: Epic X, Quad battery adapter, Red Volt XLs, 5" RED Pro monitor, Redmote.
Click to expand...

Rather than rebooting..just unplug and reinsert the LCD cable and you should be ready to rock. Happens to me a lot.
 
TheBied said:
- Create a folder called "force_preset" on the top level of your SSD
- Place the desired preset in the folder
- With your camera OFF, insert the SSD into the camera
- Start the camera, The preset will be applied on startup
Click to expand...

TheBied .
i try evreting,
When using this mode in default does not happen.
When to blackshading have this defect.
But only with this build over 75 fps
There is this bug?
Same in 2 red epic
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hk5_QaiMq-k&feature=youtu.be

thanks
Luigi
 
Chris McKechnie said:
Rather than rebooting..just unplug and reinsert the LCD cable and you should be ready to rock. Happens to me a lot.
Click to expand...
I wouldn't really recommend that since the LCD/EVF connector isn't meant to be hot-plugged and I'm pretty sure it's been stated that hot-plugging can actually damage the system.
 
Jaakko Rinne said:
I wouldn't really recommend that since the LCD/EVF connector isn't meant to be hot-plugged and I'm pretty sure it's been stated that hot-plugging can actually damage the system.
Click to expand...

I'd love an official comment from RED on this, as I searched and didn't see any warning on hot-plugging the LCD (although, I've been too paranoid to do so as it certainly makes sense that it might cause a problem).
 
You can hot-plug the LCD/EVF cable.
 
Les C. said:
I'd love an official comment from RED on this, as I searched and didn't see any warning on hot-plugging the LCD (although, I've been too paranoid to do so as it certainly makes sense that it might cause a problem).
Click to expand...

Well, I've been doing it now and the trick works fine. I am pretty skeptical that a $50 000 system would be sensitive to hotpluging a cable, but what do I know... No pun intended.
 
So I'm finally getting some downtime and I wanted to start pushing forward with getting to know my scarlet. One of the first things I wanted to do was to update the firmware. However I'm still at the default version 2.0.5 and I'm looking to add the 3.2.13. Is there an order in updating the firmwares? Or can you update from default to 3.2.13? Has anyone had any problems in this process? Thanks in advance.

Best,
-John
 
John Brennick said:
So I'm finally getting some downtime and I wanted to start pushing forward with getting to know my scarlet. One of the first things I wanted to do was to update the firmware. However I'm still at the default version 2.0.5 and I'm looking to add the 3.2.13. Is there an order in updating the firmwares? Or can you update from default to 3.2.13? Has anyone had any problems in this process? Thanks in advance.

Best,
-John
Click to expand...

You should have no problems upgrading directly from 2.0.5 to 3.2.12. Just make sure to follow the instructions included in the upgrade download.
 
I LOVE 3.2.13 however my Epic-X does not keep timecode (clock or date) when the battery is changed. It always did before. My rep, Nar, said to re-install the firmware but that didn't fix it. Suggestions? I assume there is a small internal battery that keeps time that could be dead? I only just got the camera at the end of Feb. Nar also said I could send it in, but it's working too often to be without it for week or more. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
 
I was seeing too many bits of wackiness with 3.2.13 - lcd white / cards not recognized when insterted / battery percentage not displayed. I missed a shot at an event because of the media thing, so I rolled back to 3.07 today. Will wait for a new update.

Going to BEG for power management in the next build ( I know it's in the plan ) and also wonder if we can get our redvolt chargers to start charging after the batteries are cooled. I understand if they can't start charging warm, but they should start once cool enough. I know there is no firmware updating the charger...
 
Jeffrey T. Morgan said:
Going to BEG for power management in the next build ( I know it's in the plan ) and also wonder if we can get our redvolt chargers to start charging after the batteries are cooled. I understand if they can't start charging warm, but they should start once cool enough. I know there is no firmware updating the charger...
Click to expand...

+1 on the REDvolts
 
problem with HDMI 1080p24

problem with HDMI 1080p24

I'm shooting 4K QuadHD on a Scarlet at 23.97.

I can output to my Samsung monitor using HDMI at 1080p 60 Hz and the monitor displays 1080p60.

If I change the Scarlet to the new output of 1080p 24 hz, the monitor says it's an unrecognized format.

If I change to 1080p 30 Hz, the monitors says it is displaying 1080p60.

If I connect a Canon HV20, the monitor says it's displaying 1080i60 - so it seems pretty good about showing which format it's seeing.

--
If I output the 1080p 24 Hz to a Black Magic Intensity card, it displays nothing.

Same for 25 Hz and 30 Hz - it doesn't detect it as a valid signal (the Black Magic cannot accept 1080p60).

The Black Magic card will accept 1080p23.98, 1080p24, 1080p25, 1080p29.97, 1080p30.

The Black Magic will also accept 1080i50, 1080i59.94, 1080i60 - so it works perfectly with the Canon HV20.

At the moment, I don't have a way to record 1080p using the Black Magic and the Scarlet.

--
So, with the two pieces of equipment I've tried to use in my studio, the new 24 Hz 1080p24 doesn't seem to be working.

I did connect the Scarlet at 1080p 24 Hz to a very large Sharp HDTV. It would sometimes display it, but at times had artifacts and problems where I had to switch to another input and back again. Although the Sharp will show an informational message of 1080p24 when I play BluRays, it didn't show what format it thinks it's receiving when I had the Scarlet set to 1080p 24 Hz for some reason.

BTW - as I intend to use this for capturing video and audio, as a backup in case of problems (which might come in handy if the audio gets out of sync, as recently reported), it would be great if instead of just 24 Hz, if it could also output 23.97 to match the recording format (as it seems to do for SDI)

Thanks a lot for adding this feature!!! I'm really looking forward to using it.
 
I would like to report a bug. If you roll out a mag, camera freezes and keeps recording.
 
Les C. said:
I'm shooting 4K QuadHD on a Scarlet at 23.97.

I can output to my Samsung monitor using HDMI at 1080p 60 Hz and the monitor displays 1080p60.

If I change the Scarlet to the new output of 1080p 24 hz, the monitor says it's an unrecognized format.

If I change to 1080p 30 Hz, the monitors says it is displaying 1080p60.

If I connect a Canon HV20, the monitor says it's displaying 1080i60 - so it seems pretty good about showing which format it's seeing.

--
If I output the 1080p 24 Hz to a Black Magic Intensity card, it displays nothing.

Same for 25 Hz and 30 Hz - it doesn't detect it as a valid signal (the Black Magic cannot accept 1080p60).

The Black Magic card will accept 1080p23.98, 1080p24, 1080p25, 1080p29.97, 1080p30.

The Black Magic will also accept 1080i50, 1080i59.94, 1080i60 - so it works perfectly with the Canon HV20.

At the moment, I don't have a way to record 1080p using the Black Magic and the Scarlet.

--
So, with the two pieces of equipment I've tried to use in my studio, the new 24 Hz 1080p24 doesn't seem to be working.

I did connect the Scarlet at 1080p 24 Hz to a very large Sharp HDTV. It would sometimes display it, but at times had artifacts and problems where I had to switch to another input and back again. Although the Sharp will show an informational message of 1080p24 when I play BluRays, it didn't show what format it thinks it's receiving when I had the Scarlet set to 1080p 24 Hz for some reason.

BTW - as I intend to use this for capturing video and audio, as a backup in case of problems (which might come in handy if the audio gets out of sync, as recently reported), it would be great if instead of just 24 Hz, if it could also output 23.97 to match the recording format (as it seems to do for SDI)

Thanks a lot for adding this feature!!! I'm really looking forward to using it.
Click to expand...

I am curious as to why you want a 24 Hz output??
 
Also getting in and out of keys locked on the REDmote is now a hassle, seems to be a bug on the REDmote's firmware.
 
Terry VerHaar said:
I am curious as to why you want a 24 Hz output??
Click to expand...

When recording in my studio, my workflow is to have the camera connected to an HDMI splitter.

One output goes to a large monitor for checking focus and framing - and the other goes to a Black Magic Intensity card, currently connected to a MacPro with FCP7 (but soon I'll move everything to AE/Premiere on Win7 where I'm doing all my R3D file editing) where it records ProRes 422 HQ.

With a 'normal' camera, recording the hdmi feed bypasses all the mpeg compression and gives you true 1920 x 1080 from a DV camera.

I can record the session in 1080p with sound and immediately review the take on a large monitor with studio sound monitors.

Most of my takes are very short, but they need to be perfect. If I don't like a performance, I can immediately show the talent what they are doing wrong, and get them to correct it.

It's great to be able to look at a high quality version of what was just shot immediately, without having to deal with pulling R3Ds off the flash. I'll know exactly what a debayered output will look like (and sound like), in advance.

My hope is that when the 1080p24 is working, that I'll be able to do this with the Scarlet.

The Black Magic card in the Mac Pro won't record 1080p60, so I need to get the Scarlet to output at 1080p24 or hopefully 1080p23.97. The same goes for the Matrox MXO2, it won't work at 1080p60.

Unless there's a problem with the R3D files, I doubt the 1080p recording will be used for anything but review, but ... it never hurts to have a backup for video as well as sound (as some are reporting audio synch issues lately).

I'm toying with the idea of doing this in the field also, using a Win7 laptop (and external monitor) and a Black Magic USB3 Intensity - as I've gotten used to having a large monitor when recording.

The laptop would serve double duty for pulling R3D files off the flash cards to back them up and recycle them.
 
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