- Banned
- #461
Yes, the PARCAN's are more useful in some situations than a normal PAR since you don't have to deal with side spill and the tube is long enough to put a gel in a gel frame holder in front without melting (except for the narrow spot ones -- they are called "firestarters" for good reason to be careful how close the light is to a surface). You can also clip a scrim from another light to a PARCAN, or put it on a dimmer.
I also find ellipsoidals like Lekos or Source-4's very useful for lighting, especially as a bounce where the light can be precisely cut to match the area you want to bounce off of. You can see a Source-4 with a 575w Joker HMI inside of it here (normally Source-4's and Lekos are tungsten, under 1K):
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Here the Joker HMI Source-4 (called a "Joe-Leko") is being bounced off of a white card above a window to create a soft backlit effect. Once the card is in place, the spotlight will be centered on the card and then the iris leaves of the Source-4 will be adjusted to match the edges of the white card:
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What's great about that trick is that it is much easier to rig white cards to ceilings than a soft light unit. The Source-4 doesn't really spill around the edges (unless the front lens is dusty/dirty) so you don't need a lot of flags to cut the light and get rid of any flare. It only lights what it is aimed at.
Great tips!
Just to make sure we are on the same page, when you say PARCANs you mean just a normal long PAR64 like this right?
http://www.bulbamerica.com/photos/products/2/42/42/thumbnails/250x250/PAR64B.jpg
When you use PAR64’s do you find yourself using the MFL as much as the VNSP or do you feel that if you need a MFL you would rather use another type of fixture all together and use the PAR64's only for distant throw?
I’m just trying to figure if I should get both or just VNSP for my kit.