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The Gentleman's Underwater Bubble Blower Thread

question ..I remember someone saying they use a plus1 or plus 2..diopter on tokina 11-16mm lense..sharpens image..anybody ever due this...Question 2..what is the best longest playing v type battery for redone in housing..anyone ever buy and use global mediabatteries..yhanks.koz

Jim, you can use +1 or +2 on Tokina...but i have used it clean and personally i have no issue with the softer corners...in fact in many cases i like it and how it focuses attention on the subject in some cases. And if your audience is looking at the corners, we have bigger problems than just soft corners.

As for batts....I've used & have the Globalmedia's as well as the batts from: http://www.globalmediapro.com/dc/CA...-Power/Mount-V-Lock/Batteries-for-Red-Camera/
this i bought for red one and is largest to fit on top battery plate---BUT, measure for yourself and check specs: http://www.globalmediapro.com/dp/A2...S-R-Lithium-ion-Battery-160WH-for-Red-Camera/
 
Gentleman,
My company agreed to send me to shoot colorful coral reef scenes with colorful fish with our RED Epic. The shots will be 1hr long each and on a steady tripod. One week long shoot. Budget should be modest for the first time around.
I have good experience shooting Epic, but practically none underwater. I have one real ocean dive behind me. No other people in my company have scuba diving certificate. It is apparent I will need to get up to speed to accomplish this task.

So I need advice how to tackle this project best way:
1) Where should I go to get best footage? Living in Iowa, closest comes to my mind Caribbean.
2) Should I rent underwater housing on main land?
3) Should I hire scuba diving/boat operators, or should I rent the gear myself and bring people with me? How many people will I need to get the job done? I assume boat operator, me and scuba buddy.
4) Should I hire professional underwater videographer to train me and assist with first few shoots? Should he know RED?
5) Should I attempt to do SOME shooting without scuba gear, just snorkeling to save money?
6) Do I need to use lights to get great colors? How long will these lights last? Will the scenes look natural?
7) How many dives do you think I can do in one day/week?
8) What are the things that I am not aware off that could be a challenge?

I have so many questions. Greatly appreciate your advices.
Thanks
Radim
 
Gentleman,
My company agreed to send me to shoot colorful coral reef scenes with colorful fish with our RED Epic. The shots will be 1hr long each and on a steady tripod. One week long shoot. Budget should be modest for the first time around.
I have good experience shooting Epic, but practically none underwater. I have one real ocean dive behind me. No other people in my company have scuba diving certificate. It is apparent I will need to get up to speed to accomplish this task.

So I need advice how to tackle this project best way:
1) Where should I go to get best footage? Living in Iowa, closest comes to my mind Caribbean.
2) Should I rent underwater housing on main land?
3) Should I hire scuba diving/boat operators, or should I rent the gear myself and bring people with me? How many people will I need to get the job done? I assume boat operator, me and scuba buddy.
4) Should I hire professional underwater videographer to train me and assist with first few shoots? Should he know RED?
5) Should I attempt to do SOME shooting without scuba gear, just snorkeling to save money?
6) Do I need to use lights to get great colors? How long will these lights last? Will the scenes look natural?
7) How many dives do you think I can do in one day/week?
8) What are the things that I am not aware off that could be a challenge?

I have so many questions. Greatly appreciate your advices.
Thanks
Radim

Radim, best is to hire someone with a full underwater kit: camera/housing/lights/tripod etc.......and take with you....
 
Radim,

Couldn't agree more with Johnny, the best option, the only option even if you really want "keeper" results, would be to hire somebody who is experienced.

Shooting underwater holds an allure for many shooters, some feel that camera and shooting techniques knowledge will compensate for lack of experience underwater (wrong) and others just relish the thrill of a new experience. Either way, underwater introduces so many variables, both equipment and operator related, that if you REALLY need to justify the money and time expenditure, then the only way to go is hire a pro. If it is something you'd like to tackle in the future, then you can travel with your hired pro and serve as his assistant and learn the ropes while you are it, while giving direction as to the types of shot, framing, etc, but you'll do yourself a favor if you hire somebody who knows how to operate a particular camera in a particular housing in a particular location under a particular set of conditions. Yes, Caribbean would be your best bet. Having said all that, it would feel awfully familiar if I were to say that I'm available for such hire, but I'm not, so my advice comes from the heart. However, a lot of other guys on this thread are, indeed, available.

Jim,

A +2 works best with the 11-16, BUT you need an 8" dome with it, and then you'll have two considerations:

- If you want your corners as sharp as possible, then you need to place the lens as far back in relation to the dome as possible without vignetting. This will NOT eliminate soft corners (nothing really does with this lens) but it will make the softness quite acceptable. However, if you do this:
- you will then need to adjust back focus because with a +2 and the lens seated back, you will get "out of focuseness" on the rear areas of the focus plane, where things closer to the camera will be in focus but those in the back will not. It is quite a disturbing effect. So what I've done is move my back focus forward on the lens, where things that are .45 meters away focus at the .3 meter mark, and that took care of it.

You could of course leave the lens aligned with the edge of the dome and not have this problem but then your corners will be really soft, especially when shooting anything at an angle from you, and the more the lens comes forward in relation to the edge of the dome, the worse it gets. There are many situations where the soft corners are not a problem as Johnny said, but with this lens in particular, there are those other times when it becomes a very noticeable, distracting issue. You need to learn to shoot for this lens, making sure there is nothing at more than 30 degrees from either end of the dome and positioning very unimportant things on the periphery of your shots, stuff that odes not need to be sharp anyway.
 
Like Johnny says. If you've not done this before and are completely confident Hire some one with kit and expertees.
 
thanks again the the advice..perhaps for ocean and lake shipwreck I should stick to the tokina 10-17mm set at 12..13..14mm maybe..give it a try koz
 
The 10-17 is plenty wide even at 15mm, and from 15mm to 17mm, pretty rectilinear too. And with that, you don't need to worry about diopters or distance to the dome for sure. In fact, you can even use a 6" dome, or even a 4", and not worry about the bulk of an 8"....Howard Hall is not bothered by fisheyes, neither is Johnny Friday, so you'd be a good company. I don't love them all that much, but then, I have the Nikon 10-24 which is AWESOME, but you can't use it on your Birger mount, so....
 
Rudi, Johny & Jim. You all are very confident that I need a underwater professional. I think that is reasonable and will be doable for this project. We do want best results, and don't have access to ocean to keep trying and learning. I will be collecting contacts and quotes. Thanks guys.
 
Rudi, Johny & Jim. You all are very confident that I need a underwater professional. I think that is reasonable and will be doable for this project. We do want best results, and don't have access to ocean to keep trying and learning. I will be collecting contacts and quotes. Thanks guys.

Radim,
not sure what you need....but you might also consider the numerous stock agencies out there....that might in the end fit your budget and get you the shots you need w/out going into the field. I'm sure most of us would prefer to say, hire a working pro, but often if budget is something you need to consider, then might look at stock instead.
 
Johnny, I believe stock is not an option for us. We need hour long uninterrupted scenes for our product in 5k and on a tripod.


yep....1 hour scenes on tripod are a CUSTOM setup....you'll also need to do the obvious. Setup SSD cards for correct compression & battery should be a big bastard...240watt hour. Not sure how R3d's do at one hour at constant FPS, but i assume no problems.....Other things that might be even a good thought are (if shallow enough)---topside monitoring and recording as a backup to SSD cards.
 
Johnny, I believe stock is not an option for us. We need hour long uninterrupted scenes for our product in 5k and on a tripod.



What Johnny said, best to hire a UW filmmaker to go with you and shoot the imaging you need. Yes, one that knows the camera, lenses. Underwater filming with little diving experience will frustrate you, you will need to be at home under the water as much as on land. Then filming UW with EPIC is a whole new ball game if you've never done it. Best money spent will be to take someone with you on the trip that works daily with the camera UW.

Add a tripod to the mix underwater, it'll be a fun time for you. Best and good luck,
Frazier
 
question..I just watched 2 underwater shows ..discovery channel..english diver.hostwhite sharks and second show was red squid in baja..the host was wearing the same fullface blue scuba mask where you can see his mouth with ots system and it had a big D.. on the mouthpiece..anybody no what the make..cost and where I COULD BUY ONE.THANKS..KOZ
 
question..I just watched 2 underwater shows ..discovery channel..english diver.hostwhite sharks and second show was red squid in baja..the host was wearing the same fullface blue scuba mask where you can see his mouth with ots system and it had a big D.. on the mouthpiece..anybody no what the make..cost and where I COULD BUY ONE.THANKS..KOZ

Could it be a Kirby Morgan full facemask? These are quite popular and they are modified by any number of other companies such as OTS and Rebreather manufacturers....It's the mask i have...i think mark 48?
but they also make band masks....but many other manufactuerers as well.
http://kmdsi.com/products/full-face-mask/m-48-mod-1
 
question..I just watched 2 underwater shows ..discovery channel..english diver.hostwhite sharks and second show was red squid in baja..the host was wearing the same fullface blue scuba mask where you can see his mouth with ots system and it had a big D.. on the mouthpiece..anybody no what the make..cost and where I COULD BUY ONE.THANKS..KOZ
Hi Jim those masks are from Diveways in Japan http://www.diveways.jp/products/fullfacemask.htm
 
I looked at this japanese mask..it is black and a little different..anyone no where the blue one is available in the usa. they used it in every shoot in the bbc series...OCEANS AS WELL
 
any reason you need THAT particular mask? What use are you going to use for? Maybe if you can tell us what you are using it for---on a rebreather or open circuit and for comms &/or talent to speak or just working divers communicating...I would stick ONLY with OTS for comms for reliability, maintenance and just quick access to parts/questions. As for masks....well you can modify just about any masks, but might go with something tried and true. I think there are a number of us that have used these before and some of us have used a variety....i am in the latter category and like the KM masks and the masks OTS has called the Guardian--not sure who makes the actual mask, but it's economical, works and great for talent to use.
 
I think the Diveways FFM allows you to see the presenters mouth and more of the persons' facial expressions but I believe you need to flush the CO2 regularly so special training is appropriate. I use the Drager Nova Panorama FFM with my ISC Pathfinder rebreather but I will most likely also be using the KM super mask MOD1 in the future with the OTS comms.
 
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