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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

The Gentleman's Underwater Bubble Blower Thread

Hi Johnny,

Thanks so much on your reply. And thanks for the solid advice, ordering second mag reader on Monday (only cheap thing on RED that actually don´t mind having as a backup ;-).
I am attaching my setup but it is a plain and simple as can be. I tried both the USB 3 and FireWire800 the red light shows the power is getting to the station but none of the 2 cards mount to the computer.

I really don´t see another reason except a faulty station.

Once again thanks on the reply and advice, Nuno.
 

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Problem solved, I just had to push a lot harder to get the card in. Had no idea the guys at RED worked on weekends ;-) If it happens to any one else you reaaaaaly have to push until it snaps.

Hello Nuno,
Thank you for contacting RED SUPPORT.
Could you please confirm that the RED MINI-MAG is being inserted fully into the RED STATION? We have seen cases in which newer RED MINI-MAGs and newer RED STATIONs can be a bit stiff at first and need a little bit extra pressure to fully insert. The bottom of the RED graphic text on the RED MINI-MAG should line up almost perfectly with the card slot when inserted fully.
Please let me know if this helps!
 
Also a gotcha with the camera.

Glad you got that solved Nuno, some shooters have experienced spontaneous mag disconnects, especially when opening the housings for fresh mag/ battery changes, and have solved these kinds of problems by installing w00dencameradotcom/SSD-Guard-EPICdothtml onto their Epics. Don't know if they make 512 mini guards, I expect they will soon.

Sorry to make you work for the link, Red doesn't like this company, long story apparently, but their products are very useful.
 
Chris Bryan has lightweight custom acrylic housing for his Miro, he used to have an Epic but unsure if he has another, he may have gone the 4K phantom.
 
Shark Suit for Sale (chain mail)

Shark Suit for Sale (chain mail)

Gentlemen

I figure this thread would be the only place really for such an ad.

Selling my two piece (Farmer john / Top) chain mail protective shark suit.
Excellent shape- chain mail is perfect.
Integrated hood, gloves and feet.
Adjustable straps.

Currently accepting offers- please spread the word ....
Contact me direct of forum if interested : mauricio@handlerphoto.com or dp@aquaterrafilms.com

Thanks!
 

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Great Footage Rafa!
 
4k 60fps Underwater Footage

4k 60fps Underwater Footage

So seems the latest tv manufacturers are calling for 4k 60fps content now....yet there are none or few tv's out there at moment...but that is what i see lining up at present in my latest sales of 4k docs and footage. I recently shot some test clips---yet, i don't have a tv that can see the results and squeezing it down to an H264 from 6k 60p seems like a lot of math...none the less, here are a few clips.


 
So seems the latest tv manufacturers are calling for 4k 60fps content now....yet there are none or few tv's out there at moment...but that is what i see lining up at present in my latest sales of 4k docs and footage. I recently shot some test clips---yet, i don't have a tv that can see the results and squeezing it down to an H264 from 6k 60p seems like a lot of math...none the less, here are a few clips.



Johnny:


I'm hearing the same thing about 4K 60fps from some of the people I work with.

I'm a Blackmagic dealer so have ordered a Teranex express ($1395) which will convert 4K footage to 60 fps in realtime (among 178 other format conversions). Will be running some tests when it arrives.

For those that might not be familiar with Teranex they were generally considered to be tops in standards and format conversion. Teranex was originally a spinoff from Lockheed Martin that spent something like $100 million in developing the video processing technology. In 2011 the unit was between $30K and $90K depending on software options. When BMD bought Teranex in 2011 they lowered the price to $20K for everything. then a year or two later redesigned it with modern chips and sold for $1995. In short their is a lot of serious technology in the box, for a previously unheard of price point, which is good news for all of us.
 
So seems the latest tv manufacturers are calling for 4k 60fps content now....yet there are none or few tv's out there at moment...but that is what i see lining up at present in my latest sales of 4k docs and footage. I recently shot some test clips---yet, i don't have a tv that can see the results and squeezing it down to an H264 from 6k 60p seems like a lot of math...none the less, here are a few clips.



Hi Johnny,

Thanks for the information. In your estimation are the manufacturers asking for 60fps content for 24 or 30 playback? Or they asking for the higher frame rate for 60fps playback? For many subjects I have often found 48fps for playback at 24 the most pleasing to my eye, but I always assumed that the slight over crank was just a personal preference.

Thanks,

matt
 
Manufacturers are asking for 60p timebase for their new 4k 60p screens.....this is not an issue of shooting overcranked, but shooting a timebase of 60p. So on the Dragon sensor for instance at 6k, all you can shoot is 59.94p and you cannot overcrank it unless you drop to 5k or 4k. I"ve not shot a lot of 59.94 timebase on the new camera, so i don't know more about the frame rates that can be shot....but i can say, 60p is not bad looking on a big screen.
 
Manufacturers are asking for 60p timebase for their new 4k 60p screens.....this is not an issue of shooting overcranked, but shooting a timebase of 60p. So on the Dragon sensor for instance at 6k, all you can shoot is 59.94p and you cannot overcrank it unless you drop to 5k or 4k. I"ve not shot a lot of 59.94 timebase on the new camera, so i don't know more about the frame rates that can be shot....but i can say, 60p is not bad looking on a big screen.

I'm just talking off the cuff here, so my thinking could be off. But couldn't you do a normal project rate of 24 or 29.97 and if you need slo mo shoot over cranked. Do the edit at your project rate, then do a final conversion via software or realtime by the Teranex for the final output. Obviously, not quite the same as shooting higher frame rates (i.e 120 or 180 fps) on a 59.94 timebase but might be more practical given the current state of technology.

Obvously, shooting and editing everything with a true 60p time base would be ideal, but it seems to me some of this desire for 60p may be like the way film projectors actually flash twice per frame (so 48fps for normal 24fps movies) - for a better visual/temporal effect.
 
Hi Michael,
I cannot comment too much on this, because i have not done (and likely won't) do thorough testing. Yes, you can do that, but with the extra frames and odd math...since normally you wont' be shooting multiples of the time-base of 60p...when shooting 24fps. Normally (me) i shoot 24p and then multiples of that when overcraking--48, 72, 96 since the math is much easier on the conversion. If you shoot an odd rate...for example 72fps on a 24p timebase....math is easy....but then convert that to a 60p timeline....perhaps you end up with artifacting since it's an odd frame rate and math is more complex.---Maybe you don't either, I've not done any tests....

But in terms of what i was originally referring....these TV manufacturers want true 60p footage and content for display purposes....so up converting is not an option for them and they won't buy that footage.....of course if this becomes a new medium, then likely you'll see a bunch of conversions---liken that to 2d converted...and you have instant content. Mabye it's as good, but also maybe not.....i suppose if you have the frames, it should work.

Johnny
 
UW Dragon/Ultras/Rouge: Fences - "Arrows" (Featuring Macklemore and Ryan Lewis)

UW Dragon/Ultras/Rouge: Fences - "Arrows" (Featuring Macklemore and Ryan Lewis)

Aloha Gents,
Sharing a great new music video that was just released. I filmed the underwater portions on a Dragon with Ultraprimes in my Amphibico Rouge housing. Lighting was a single 6K HMI topside and 1.2K Seapars for underwater fill. Hope you enjoy it, I thought everyone did a great job and I was stoked to be a part of the project! Special thanks to my awesome UW AC Laura James for sharing the BTS picts.
Cheers, Jeff

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ph6fmk27grc


Here's the Art Dept guys shooting arrows at me for use by VFX, better than facing hungry sharks I guess ;-)
arrows_web.jpg


Amphibico Rouge housing with topside HD-SDI tap and UW tripod.
arrows2_web.jpg
 
Hello gentlemen,

Just a quick note to let you know I have the last of my RED ONE MX/Gates Deep Red complete, ready to shoot systems for sale. If there's anybody interested in a backup package at a great price, send me a PM.
 
I am shotting 50fps at 180º but in Europe. Chosing what side of the Atlantic you are selling your footage when you are smack in the middle is a bit of a gamble ;-)

I am new to RED but in love and having a great honeymoon with the blue sharks, devil rays etc...

Only verrrrry anoing set back so far is problems with the REDMOTE. So far it happen twice: it will simply loose connection and go besurcs. Both the times after it lost communication it would not power on or off and just not respond to commands. The second time it happen before the dive as I was assembling the camera with the REDMOTE fully charged: wouldn´t power off and would recognise the camera or commands. Planned to drop the dive but realised the parameters of the last footage where ok so jumped on to the boat anyway to just shoot as it was (ISO 800, 25 Fps, 180º). Got to the dive site powered up the camera and the REDMOTE woke up, connected and worked fine and has done ever since. But wondering when it will go crazy next.

Downloading firmware now to check if that could be it.

Another issue for the UW guys is the calibration (Black shading). Still haven't come up with a solution to correctly calibrate it at the right temperature it reaches after a few minutes of operation. Up to 15 min of use and Temp and Exp is in green but after that the temp goes yellow as it goes over the temp it has been calibrated originally. The reading on the Temp indicator says around 46/69 so I guess it is calibrated for 46Cº and operating around 70Cº (I believe it is ok for +/- 15Cº so I am over the limit). I guess I will have to get the camera in the housing on land let it warm up to 70Cº and the do the Black shading. The fan control is set to Adaptive.
 
Nuno, do you have the new antenna upgrade? i think that is old news and should have been done a year or more ago. But further to this...only recently i have had problems where i loose a connection, but if you put your redmote back on your camera (the back)....it then regains control and you should be able to remove it and use it again. First though, are you using it in your housing? if so, what housing?....A simple way to always be sure you have this working is to set your camera up before your dive/shoot, then check your connection is working with redmote--if so, and all is well. Turn off the camera, then seal the housing (don't put a vacume on it) and then turn the camera back on from your housing controls and then your redmote---check you have a connection and then also pull the trigger to be sure you can record and you also did not forget to put in media. This is just a dummy check to make sure everything is working....if not, go back and fix what needs to be fixed.....IF you have no redmote connection, put it back on the camera to re-connect and try again.....OR, just before your dive, connect the redmote to teh camera....to get it connected and then leave the camera and redmote turned on and seal the housing, then put a vacuum on it and make your dive. This uses a bit of battery power, but assures you have your redmote operable for the dive.

As for doing a blackshade...i personally leave the camera in my housing and seal it and leave a very small gap for a bit of heat to escape, but i have it down to where the camera gets up to 55c to 60c and then make a blackshade.....and it seems Adaptive at 60 or 65c is good.....I am no expert in blackshading, but that's how i do it....

Good luck
 
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