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Switching Mounts For Different Lenses On Epic

Daniel Soderberg

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Just was curious to see if anyone ever switches between mounts (PL and Canon) on their Epic to go back and forth between different lens sets.

Could it be bad/damaging to switch mounts often?

Thanks!
 
Switch all the time between PL mount lenses and Canon. No problem at all.
 
Awesome! I assume you mean switching between the Red made mounts (rather than a third party mount like Allstar)?

Switch all the time between PL mount lenses and Canon. No problem at all.
 
Just was curious to see if anyone ever switches between mounts (PL and Canon) on their Epic to go back and forth between different lens sets.

Could it be bad/damaging to switch mounts often?

Thanks!

I do it all the time. PL to optitek Nikon. It allows me to use my Nikon 300mm 2.8 ais and a host of other lenses that I use occasionally but don't feel that I need them in pl mount.
 
Like most things on the Epic it's really easy!
I wondered what it would be like, thinking of pins that might snaps and shims needed, but it's just like screwing a tripod plate onto the base of a camera - flat piece metal, couple of screws, done!
Something work noting, the EOS mount has a locking ring on it as well as a bayonet. This is great as it means the lens clamped really firmly and won't twist when focussing etc., but if you don't know about it and try to remove your lens it won't come off and you might think its jammed on!
Steve
 
I do it all the time but lately I've noticed that the internal threading of the mount screw holes are becoming more difficult. The left side screws are now being extra difficult to thread so sadly, I have to send it into Red for an inspection and possible replacement of those threads. It seems to me like the metal isn't as 'hard' as it was when I first bought the camera.
 
I do it all the time but lately I've noticed that the internal threading of the mount screw holes are becoming more difficult. The left side screws are now being extra difficult to thread so sadly, I have to send it into Red for an inspection and possible replacement of those threads. It seems to me like the metal isn't as 'hard' as it was when I first bought the camera.
How are you tightening the screws when you put a mount on?
 
Id be interested to hear from anyone who check columation between different mounts. We are fining that you can change a mount and replace the same mount and it goes back with near exact same columation, I don't have figures for this. We are finding that different mounts do need change of back focus though. i.e. PL to Canon or Allstar. We are very careful with our camera columation set up and regularly check it, I don't know how frequently other users check columation on cameras.
 
Id be interested to hear from anyone who check columation between different mounts. We are fining that you can change a mount and replace the same mount and it goes back with near exact same columation, I don't have figures for this. We are finding that different mounts do need change of back focus though. i.e. PL to Canon or Allstar. We are very careful with our camera columation set up and regularly check it, I don't know how frequently other users check columation on cameras.

What you are saying matches with my experiance, everytime you replace a PL or Panavision mount you should check. If you always eye focus you might get away without it, fast wide angle lenses may not focus properly at infinity
 
What you are saying matches with my experiance, everytime you replace a PL or Panavision mount you should check. If you always eye focus you might get away without it, fast wide angle lenses may not focus properly at infinity

We are finding that we can remove a PL mount and replace it and it refits and is near exact collumation. If you switch to an other mount same type then needs flange depth resetting. Also we find that a Red PL mount is slightly different to say a PL A mount system. We check using an IBE collimator.

I asked this in another thread to see if we could set Flange Depth on PL and then say change to EF or Nikon mount but I think the Flange depth needs to be set for the mount intended for use which also implies you need a collimator with inter changeable mounts on it. I'm not sure if this exists or would work due to the very small tolerances involved. Id like to hear from an expert on this.
 
We are finding that we can remove a PL mount and replace it and it refits and is near exact collumation. If you switch to an other mount same type then needs flange depth resetting. Also we find that a Red PL mount is slightly different to say a PL A mount system. We check using an IBE collimator.

I asked this in another thread to see if we could set Flange Depth on PL and then say change to EF or Nikon mount but I think the Flange depth needs to be set for the mount intended for use which also implies you need a collimator with inter changeable mounts on it. I'm not sure if this exists or would work due to the very small tolerances involved. Id like to hear from an expert on this.

An autocollimator would fit the bill, it has a star focused at infinity. It's possible to make them fairly cheaply, there was a guy who sold the on Ebay 10 years ago for$175 however he retired.
 
I used to switch a lot between PL and the Optitek Nikon mount. Was concerned about doing so on set, losing screws, dirt, etc.
So I got the A mount system, and couldn't be happier! It's ridiculously easy to switch between Nikon and PL glass now, with no tools, just exchange the lenses.
Couldn't be happier.
 
I change all the time too. I do make sure to use the set of screws that came with the PL mount only with thePL mount, and the Canon mount with the screws that came with that unit. No problems so far
 
Yes. What do you want to know?
 
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