James Miller 72
Well-known member
Anyone who has followed my progress over the last few years knows that as soon as we had removable OLPF filters on the DSMC1 EPIC Dragon (I think that was Dec 2014) I experimented with the glass from beta Metabones speedboosters.
Finding physical time to actually get something produced is very tricky finally I have had the time to actually document how it is achievable, to hopefully help others to have a go or just for amusement!
It started on the old Epic body and basically I used the speedbooster element from an early beta/mk1 Sony E mount to EF Metabones adapter. Then when I upgraded to the Helium the fiddling started again with my custom speedbooster caddy, which for fun I’m calling ‘The Reducer’
Its designed to fit the x.71 Speedbooster Ultra elements, its a larger lump of glass but does produce the best images.
Achieve beyond full frame at 8k FF on selected lenses, cropping in to WS will help if you are shooting at full resolution.
Most lenses will vignette at 8k FF / 7.5k FF but works very well on the right lens combination. 7k FF/WS is equivalent width to 35mm FF and is my standard goto.
Here is 3D printed caddy for the Helium.
What you need:
1: Metabones Canon EF to Sony E Mount T Speed Booster ULTRA 0.71x II (CVP £540.83) / BH $649)
2: REDucer 3D Print design in various formats. .3mf, .stl, .obj. (Digital download available soon) £129
Optional:
3: 3D Printer / Creality3D CR - 10S 3D(Gearbest £427.24 / $559.11)
4: PLA, PETG, ABS Filament 1.0KG used in OLPF caddy 12-14 grams (Amazon £21.95)
5: DSMC VV AL CANON MOUNT $750 / £664
Honing the DSMC S35 AL CANON MOUNT:
Hone the DSMC S35 AL CANON MOUNT to with an inch of its life. You need to do this as the front element & housing on the speedbooster protrudes into the lens mount and the DCMC1 lens mount is not wide enough. You have to be careful of the circuitry of course but its possible. To limit this you can also mill away the top and bottom of the threads on the speedbooster. (Only recommended if you really don’t want to purchase a VV mount)
6: Dremel Multitool (Amazon £36)
7: Optional DSMC2 OLPF $295 needed for a donor OLP filter but you could used your existing OLPF. The filter is the same size as the fixed OLPF inside the body and the distance is 0mm from the caddy IR cut filter so the VV OLPF donor caddy is not required.
The lens element used is the 0.71x designed by Brian Caldwell. Obviously going directly to Brian would save costs but I have used the stock Sony E Mount to EF version. You could machine down the flange distance on the now lensless Metabones adapter allowing you to use on full frame E Mount cameras if your up for a bit of modding or just use as a paper weight.
What it will cost:
Option 1: print your own REDucer caddy (via 3rd Party) with EF mount modification £670
Option 2: print your own REDucer caddy (via 3rd Party) with DSMC VV AL CANON MOUNT £1,334
Option 3: print your own REDucer caddy including 3D printer that I used & Dremel Multitool with EF mount modification £1155
Option 4: print your own REDucer caddy including 3D printer (that I used) with DSMC VV AL CANON MOUNT £1783
Ideally the perfect partner would be the RED VV EF mount as no modifications are needed to fit over the Speed Booster elements.
NOTE: You will need to adjust back focus to the maximum distance to compensate for not requiring a custom made EF mount that has a smaller flange distance. But you can swap back to standard OLPF and still use past infinity without re adjustment, although your lens marks will not be correct.
Based on the DSMC2 body. Body used in tests Weapon Helium. DSMC1 was also achieved and actually easier technically no technical drawings available to download at the moment. It was also easier as the OLPF for the DSMC1 was thicker in the caddy and that means you need less flange distance through diffraction.
Early designs and test on the EPIC Dragon. Blu tack featured heavily!
Assembly is fairly straight forward. Once you have printed the caddy it will need cleaning up as with most 3D prints. Depending on what filament you are printing, what temperature and what type of support scaffolding you are using will determine what cleanup is needed. Typically I will run at a nozzle temp of 220º and a bed of 60º. A scalpel and some fine grit paper work very well.
The fit of the element is friction and is pushed down until it seats flush with OLPF but I recommend once testing is over that you apply some locking paste/glue on the threads. The OLPF (IRCUT) glass is fixed in with a small amount of double sided tape either side, it protrudes slightly above the caddy. In the image below I have tried to reduce the rear lens assembly casing. The lower you can get this the further away from the internal fixed OLPF you will get the caddy OLPF/IRCUT filter.
It goes without saying that I will not take any responsibility for damages from modifications that you make to your camera. I love doing this type of thing but if your not sure I recommend not doing this. It’s really for the have a go type.
Back on the DSMC1 body mostly just as a project and in the summer of 2016 I shot a short film with Award Winning Director, Richard Gorodecky, on the DSMC1 Dragon using this setup. http://littleshitfilm.com
My tests films were shot on my creative version. Basically the top and bottom of the lens is ground down producing much more light reflections. This is kind of my favourite look as its not too digital.
You can see the results of chopping down the front lens elements with the reflections.
Creative versions above.
To note the RED PL mount fits over the caddy and element without and modifications but because of the reduced depth in the mount only shorter glass can be used. Will have to get a list on that one.
Cheers, James
Finding physical time to actually get something produced is very tricky finally I have had the time to actually document how it is achievable, to hopefully help others to have a go or just for amusement!
It started on the old Epic body and basically I used the speedbooster element from an early beta/mk1 Sony E mount to EF Metabones adapter. Then when I upgraded to the Helium the fiddling started again with my custom speedbooster caddy, which for fun I’m calling ‘The Reducer’
Achieve beyond full frame at 8k FF on selected lenses, cropping in to WS will help if you are shooting at full resolution.
Most lenses will vignette at 8k FF / 7.5k FF but works very well on the right lens combination. 7k FF/WS is equivalent width to 35mm FF and is my standard goto.
Here is 3D printed caddy for the Helium.
What you need:
1: Metabones Canon EF to Sony E Mount T Speed Booster ULTRA 0.71x II (CVP £540.83) / BH $649)
2: REDucer 3D Print design in various formats. .3mf, .stl, .obj. (Digital download available soon) £129
Optional:
3: 3D Printer / Creality3D CR - 10S 3D(Gearbest £427.24 / $559.11)
4: PLA, PETG, ABS Filament 1.0KG used in OLPF caddy 12-14 grams (Amazon £21.95)
5: DSMC VV AL CANON MOUNT $750 / £664
Honing the DSMC S35 AL CANON MOUNT:
Hone the DSMC S35 AL CANON MOUNT to with an inch of its life. You need to do this as the front element & housing on the speedbooster protrudes into the lens mount and the DCMC1 lens mount is not wide enough. You have to be careful of the circuitry of course but its possible. To limit this you can also mill away the top and bottom of the threads on the speedbooster. (Only recommended if you really don’t want to purchase a VV mount)
6: Dremel Multitool (Amazon £36)
7: Optional DSMC2 OLPF $295 needed for a donor OLP filter but you could used your existing OLPF. The filter is the same size as the fixed OLPF inside the body and the distance is 0mm from the caddy IR cut filter so the VV OLPF donor caddy is not required.
The lens element used is the 0.71x designed by Brian Caldwell. Obviously going directly to Brian would save costs but I have used the stock Sony E Mount to EF version. You could machine down the flange distance on the now lensless Metabones adapter allowing you to use on full frame E Mount cameras if your up for a bit of modding or just use as a paper weight.
What it will cost:
Option 1: print your own REDucer caddy (via 3rd Party) with EF mount modification £670
Option 2: print your own REDucer caddy (via 3rd Party) with DSMC VV AL CANON MOUNT £1,334
Option 3: print your own REDucer caddy including 3D printer that I used & Dremel Multitool with EF mount modification £1155
Option 4: print your own REDucer caddy including 3D printer (that I used) with DSMC VV AL CANON MOUNT £1783
Ideally the perfect partner would be the RED VV EF mount as no modifications are needed to fit over the Speed Booster elements.
NOTE: You will need to adjust back focus to the maximum distance to compensate for not requiring a custom made EF mount that has a smaller flange distance. But you can swap back to standard OLPF and still use past infinity without re adjustment, although your lens marks will not be correct.
Based on the DSMC2 body. Body used in tests Weapon Helium. DSMC1 was also achieved and actually easier technically no technical drawings available to download at the moment. It was also easier as the OLPF for the DSMC1 was thicker in the caddy and that means you need less flange distance through diffraction.
Early designs and test on the EPIC Dragon. Blu tack featured heavily!
Assembly is fairly straight forward. Once you have printed the caddy it will need cleaning up as with most 3D prints. Depending on what filament you are printing, what temperature and what type of support scaffolding you are using will determine what cleanup is needed. Typically I will run at a nozzle temp of 220º and a bed of 60º. A scalpel and some fine grit paper work very well.
The fit of the element is friction and is pushed down until it seats flush with OLPF but I recommend once testing is over that you apply some locking paste/glue on the threads. The OLPF (IRCUT) glass is fixed in with a small amount of double sided tape either side, it protrudes slightly above the caddy. In the image below I have tried to reduce the rear lens assembly casing. The lower you can get this the further away from the internal fixed OLPF you will get the caddy OLPF/IRCUT filter.
It goes without saying that I will not take any responsibility for damages from modifications that you make to your camera. I love doing this type of thing but if your not sure I recommend not doing this. It’s really for the have a go type.
Back on the DSMC1 body mostly just as a project and in the summer of 2016 I shot a short film with Award Winning Director, Richard Gorodecky, on the DSMC1 Dragon using this setup. http://littleshitfilm.com
My tests films were shot on my creative version. Basically the top and bottom of the lens is ground down producing much more light reflections. This is kind of my favourite look as its not too digital.
Creative versions above.
To note the RED PL mount fits over the caddy and element without and modifications but because of the reduced depth in the mount only shorter glass can be used. Will have to get a list on that one.
Cheers, James
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