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RED's EPIC Pelican Case 1510

Brian Iannone

Brian Iannone

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I have a few questions about RED's EPIC Pelican Case 1510.

1. Is there an 'elegant' solution to remove the "RED EPIC" logo stamp on the front of the case? I'd rather remove it as I think it attracts a little too much attention...
2. What advantages does the laser-cut foam in it have over something else like Pelican's own "Pick N Pluck" foam, other than not having to carve out the foam manually?
3. I've heard that the case will fit a Scarlet. Yet, the compatibility checks on the product page say it only works with EPIC. Can someone confirm this?

Thanks!
 
I can answer your laser cut question in a big hurry:) If you have ever used any sort of case with the pluck-out foam, you know why they're no good in the real world since you will have little squares of loose foam floating around your case half-way through your first job. Laser cut is the only way.

I also understand where you're coming from on the Red Logo. Thing is, almost any Pelican Case is going to attract attention. People know that working pros in any profession keep expensive items in a Pelican. And if you're a photographer, that Red circle will cause most to slobber on their second take.
 
I have to disagree with the above regarding pick and pluck foam. If you plan out what you are going to remove, you get a lot less spurious foam. If you care for it the pick and pluck foam is just fine.

I have a number of cases that have survived numerous campaigns.

For rentals I'd say laser cut is more important. The foam is usually denser, and it has the right spacing. (I find its easy to try and "fit" things too tightly when I make my own cases, hence the planning I mentioned before.)

People are rougher on rentals, which is why those little improvements matter. (That's actually the main reason I like to own stuff. Then the only person treating my gear any kind of way is me.)

As far as your concerns about the case's Red badging, a little gaff tape should do the trick. I use white gaff and label it something innocuous, and I keep black gaff strips on there tabbed in case I need a quick bit of tape.

If you are really concerned ... well, a 1510 case isn't that expensive. You can just buy one and swap the foam/gear.

As to your compatibility question ... Scarlet is a bit smaller than Epic. The case will fit a bit loose, but it will probably be a satisfactory fit, and better than what you can manage with pluck out foam.

The various accessories will fit perfectly ... because they are the exact same between Scarlet and Epic.

Hope that helps.
 
Just a hot tip on pick and pluck foam if laser cutting isn't an option for you.

I built out 60+ Pelican cases over the last couple years for different rigs using pick and pluck. What I like and recommend doing is picking and plucking your component holes and then take measurements of each hole. Get some black fine felt (short haired) and cut out panels for each hole. Glue them all into place and over the top surface of the foam and you have a fairly rugged reusable Pelican case.
 
Phil Holland said:
Just a hot tip on pick and pluck foam if laser cutting isn't an option for you.

I built out 60+ Pelican cases over the last couple years for different rigs using pick and pluck. What I like and recommend doing is picking and plucking your component holes and then take measurements of each hole. Get some black fine felt (short haired) and cut out panels for each hole. Glue them all into place and over the top surface of the foam and you have a fairly rugged reusable Pelican case.
Click to expand...

Great Idea Phil. Thanks for sharing, this seems like a great cost effective compromise.
 
I have managed to fit my entire Epic package into one Pelican 1560 case with padded dividers and the lid organizer. It's tall enough that my Epic body can fit standing up without removing the top mounts. I have a photo of my setup at the bottom of this page: http://juliomquintana.com/Red Epic Package.html
 
Here's an (untested) idea: Buy a case with pick and pluck foam, fit everything how you like it, then send that (or its measurements) as a template to one of the companies that will custom laser-cut foam for you. You could also just take measurements and send those, but that method concerns me because you never know just how it will fit until you get the foam you've already paid for.
 
Phil Holland said:
Just a hot tip on pick and pluck foam if laser cutting isn't an option for you.

I built out 60+ Pelican cases over the last couple years for different rigs using pick and pluck. What I like and recommend doing is picking and plucking your component holes and then take measurements of each hole. Get some black fine felt (short haired) and cut out panels for each hole. Glue them all into place and over the top surface of the foam and you have a fairly rugged reusable Pelican case.
Click to expand...

Would you mind sharing a picture of one of these setups?
 
Phil Holland said:
Just a hot tip on pick and pluck foam if laser cutting isn't an option for you.

I built out 60+ Pelican cases over the last couple years for different rigs using pick and pluck. What I like and recommend doing is picking and plucking your component holes and then take measurements of each hole. Get some black fine felt (short haired) and cut out panels for each hole. Glue them all into place and over the top surface of the foam and you have a fairly rugged reusable Pelican case.
Click to expand...

Brilliant idea with the felt, Phil! This will clean up several of my cases... Thanks!
 
Non absorbant foam is a must there are a couple of types, Plastazote is our prefered foam then theres another harder type, cant rememeber the name. Cit it with a wet knife to get good edges or get it routered out proffesionaly. The pic and pluck foam is only a trempoary solution is absorbant for water and generaly no use for our work. Lable your cases suitably we use just the model number so for Tascam DR 100 would just be DR100 so its only obvious to those that are aware of the kit. We also have a company label on 3 sides and inside the lid. Before you put a label on the case degrease it first. They seem to have some sort of waxy coating on them.
 
Thanks everyone for all the suggestions! Some excellent ideas here. =)

Dave Blackham said:
Non absorbant foam is a must there are a couple of types, Plastazote is our prefered foam then theres another harder type, cant rememeber the name. Cit it with a wet knife to get good edges or get it routered out proffesionaly. The pic and pluck foam is only a trempoary solution is absorbant for water and generaly no use for our work. Lable your cases suitably we use just the model number so for Tascam DR 100 would just be DR100 so its only obvious to those that are aware of the kit. We also have a company label on 3 sides and inside the lid. Before you put a label on the case degrease it first. They seem to have some sort of waxy coating on them.
Click to expand...

Your idea about how to label the cases is brilliant! :)
 
Just getting myself organized. Going with padded dividers since these are Roll-aboards and trying to squeeze every damn thing into them. I would definitely go laser cut foam if I was checking gear, but there's no way I'd hand my Epic over to Airline Baggage Handlers.

311355_2580656430758_1084839154_32918021_1696307491_n.jpg
 
Christopher Barrett said:
Just getting myself organized. Going with padded dividers since these are Roll-aboards and trying to squeeze every damn thing into them. I would definitely go laser cut foam if I was checking gear, but there's no way I'd hand my Epic over to Airline Baggage Handlers.

311355_2580656430758_1084839154_32918021_1696307491_n.jpg
Click to expand...

Thanks for showing that photo Christopher. :) What cases are those? They look like Pelican 1510's.
 
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