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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Red Time-lapse For flicker-free timelapse?

Black shade at that point is even more crucial. Since every tiny shutter speed change is a huge exposure change. Set all the settings for the long exposure you want and then black shade. If you have any ? Let me know I shoot time lapse on my dragon all the time and use it exclusively for time lapse except for astro work were a DSLR is better designed for that situation.
 
I did some tests this morning but I don't know how to make the camera record a frame every 6 seconds?

This are my setting.
Project timebase 29.97
1fps
Internal Timelapse Timer
Limit recording to 600 frames
Record: 500 frames
Interval: 500.00 sec.

When I try to chance the interval to 1,2,3 4,5,6 sec ...etc. it always goes back to Interval 0f 500.00 sec.

What I'm i doing wrong?

Here are the instructions from the manual. Page 92.

INTERNAL TIMELAPSE TIMER
In Internal Timelapse Timer mode, the camera records a specified number of frames at a specified interval. Thecurrent sensor frame rate determines the timing of the frames per pulse.
For example, in Internal Timelapse Timer mode, you can choose to record a total amount of 1000 frames, andtake 1 frame every 4.67 seconds. After recording 1000 frames (which takes 4,670.00 seconds), the recordingprocess stops.
To use Internal Timelapse Timer mode, follow the instructions below:
  1. Go to Menu > Settings > Recording > Mode.
  2. Select Internal Timelapse Timer from the Recording Mode drop-down menu.
  3. Use the Limit Recording to fields to set the recording to end at a predefined frame limit (optional).
  4. Select the number of frames to be captured in the Record field.
  5. Select the time interval from the Interval field (range is 1–3,599 sec). The Interval setting specifies thefrequency at which the frame or group of frames is captured.
  6. Close the menu.
  7. Start recording to start the interval.
    The overlay displays the number of frames recorded out of the total amount of frames.
 
Chad Lancaster said:
Black shade at that point is even more crucial.
Click to expand...

Just tried this with my Epic last night for the first time. I'll post footage after I have a cleaned up edit. The black shade at that exposure takes a lot longer than normal -- is that your experience as well? I mean it took on the order of 20 minutes and consumed 30% of a v-mount battery. I will say it cleaned up the image quite a bit. I need to learn more about BS management as I then had to re-BS this AM in order to resume regular use of the camera.
 
@Todd, I'm curious about the black shade calibration too. I made an experiment last night (1/4sec exposure and calibrated to that, 16 frame averaging making frame rate to 4sec), but in the morning light the exposure was about 1/2000 (aperture locked to 2.8). This means a huge missmatch with the BS cal. I could see that the exposure in your example was also extremely different between night and day (the sharp car lights versus the motion blurred car lights. So, my question is how did this affect in image quality (having an inconsistent BS either in night or day part of the clip)?

About the frame summing or averaging, I had the impression that it does not make a difference if you have frame summing or averaging on while doing the BS calibration. What matters is that you do it with the right exposure time, right?
 
I'm trying to figure out a couple of things with my time-lapse images. I found a pretty heavy vertical band in some of the frames, see the image below. This is after blackshading right before shooting so I don't think it is a BS issue. I also found that the processed image would have extreme exposure level changes, bright flashes in the composite stream. There was some light that I could not control in the shot but it was nowhere near as bright as the flashes. I am thinking that perhaps the summing gets confused when there are variations.

Note band at the far right:

6iqGB0u.jpg
 
Last edited:
I blackshade using the "current frame rate" settings.

The black shade is more critical at the longer exposure times, so the faster shutter speed when the ambient light increases should have little noticeable effects.

You are correct, the black shading is based on exposure time and not affected by the summing or averaging.
 
Humberto Ramos said:
Is it possible to use the epic with a motion slider that triggers the camera?
Click to expand...
Yup, I use my Kessler cinedrive all the time. They have a cable to control start/stop.
 
Hi Chad

This is super interesting, as I didn't think that was possible. I've been using my nikons for shoot move shoot on my Kessler.

Are you able to share your settings on the Epic for this?

thank you very much in advance.
 
Hi Chad

This is super interesting, as I didn't think that was possible. I've been using my nikons for shoot move shoot on my Kessler.

Are you able to share your settings on the Epic for this?

thank you very much in advance.
 
I see no reason to shoot timelapse on Epic unless your fps is going to be 2fps or higher. Your going to be getting far better quality using a DSLR for timelapse. There is some more work in post dealing with the RAW files but the long exposures look so much better on a DSLR. I have never been able to get long exposure frames out of Epic that I liked, even with BSC for that exposure time. Its a fine timelapse camera during the day but at night a DSLR will blow it away.
 
Andrew Walker said:
I see no reason to shoot timelapse on Epic unless your fps is going to be 2fps or higher. Your going to be getting far better quality using a DSLR for timelapse. There is some more work in post dealing with the RAW files but the long exposures look so much better on a DSLR. I have never been able to get long exposure frames out of Epic that I liked, even with BSC for that exposure time. Its a fine timelapse camera during the day but at night a DSLR will blow it away.
Click to expand...

I am realizing that more and more as I try to shoot time lapse on the Dragon. Another reason for shooting time lapse on red, other then shooting above 1fps, would be to take advantage of the dynamic range. It works really well for long lens sun and moon set shots (where its also good to shoot more then 1fps as an option). HDRX might be another reason to attempt timelapses on the epic. I have tried so many times to get frame summing to produce a clean image, after about 10 tries with different black shade calibrations, just can't seem to make it happen.
 
yup, this last May just a couple days after my epic got upgraded to Dragon.

I also partly agree with andrews statement. I've gotten great results on my dragon up to about 2-4 seconds, anything beyond that I go to a DSLR. At which time i'm usually using it for astro-timelapses where a dslr is king.
 
I've done a good amount of Timelapse over the years. And more recently over the last few months with Dragon. One thing that "is" cool I do want to add to the conversation is using HDRx for Timelapse. Protects you when things get hairy during natural daylight shoots for sure. Pretty powerful.

I'm with Chad and Andrew when it gets to long exposure/astro work though.
 
Phil Holland said:
I've done a good amount of Timelapse over the years. And more recently over the last few months with Dragon. One thing that "is" cool I do want to add to the conversation is using HDRx for Timelapse. Protects you when things get hairy during natural daylight shoots for sure. Pretty powerful.

I'm with Chad and Andrew when it gets to long exposure/astro work though.
Click to expand...

Phil and anyone else who'd care to respond...

How would you setup Dragon for the Blood moon/eclipse about to happen?
 
Phil Holland said:
I've done a good amount of Timelapse over the years. And more recently over the last few months with Dragon. One thing that "is" cool I do want to add to the conversation is using HDRx for Timelapse. Protects you when things get hairy during natural daylight shoots for sure. Pretty powerful.

I'm with Chad and Andrew when it gets to long exposure/astro work though.
Click to expand...

The HDRx function on Epic is pretty helpful when shooting day timelapse sequences but the DR I've been pulling out of my D810 cameras has been insane. Goes way beyond what the camera specs says it is, which is 14 stops. I'll post some examples in a little bit.
 
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