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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Red Scarlet X #316 "Skully"

Thanks guys.

@Kyle Gentz - I'm using an unholy combination of RedRock Micro (mostly on zooms and lesser used lenses), Shoot35 (on the majority of my glass), and Duclos hard fitted delrin on Leicas.


Heat and Camera Care

I just finished up some post work on The Haun Solo Project's "Addicted" music video that I shot back in April. It's a good lead in to something I've wanted to discuss here in this thread, heat and camera care. I'll also have some "beauty shots" of the Scarlet basking in the sun from the shoot here.


This was Lindsey Haun's concept and she directed it. I've known and been friends with her for well over half my life. Shooting this video has been something we've talked about doing for some time. She's currently on this season of HBO's True Blood.

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I served as Director of Photography, Digital Colorist, and Visual Effects Sup/Artist on the project. It was an interesting and challenging shoot. We shot for two days at two locations I've wanted to shoot at for some time out in the desert. A factory and abandoned brothel out in the desert. Then we had one day in Hollywood for the therapist and insane asylum scenes. All full shooting days. Lots of on the spot decisions and problem solving transpired due to the not so ideal hot weather conditions.

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It wasn't uncommon for the Red Scarlet to be in the harsh daylight for long periods of time. I attempted to compensate for the sun tan my camera was getting by having an umbrella on set at all times. In the photo above you'll see my little portable camera cart (it's a Multi-Cart with the foam injected wheels). I also had an umbrella over my lenses and RedMags. I took good measures to keep things cool, but sure enough on day two the Scarlet overheated after a 12 minute take. It was well over 100 degrees outside. The camera shut down. Then when powering up the camera immediately shut down. If you find yourself in this situation remember to stay calm. This is only the second time an Epic or Scarlet has overheated on me and this was a rather extreme situation when it comes to temperature by leaving the camera on for so long in such high temps. Here's what I did. I immediately told the cast and crew that we needed a 10 minute break for a tech issue. Everybody ran back to crafty and the shade, so I'm sure they didn't mind that much. I then buit a quick shade around the Scarlet (couldn't move the camera from this setup just yet), took out a full can of air, and gave the Scarlet a full camera air massage through all the vents. I pampered her with compliments and whispered how slender she looked. Physically I could feel the camera was cooler to the touch. I did wait a full 10 minutes prior to rebooting though, but once that timer was up everything was back to "normal" and we shot out the last two hours of the day.

Due to the difficulty of shooting with a couple dozen people in the middle of nowhere, the need for high mobility, and budgetary constraints I didn't have a DIT or even my Mini Dity station on location. I opted to have enough RedMag SSDs on hand and deal with it after the fact. In this case it was fine as I knew I was handling the post side of things. Also I brought a few extra batteries just in case. No power at all this far away from society.

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Another issue overall was the dusty enviroment. I made sure whenever there was a moment to keep the camera clean through blowing, sucking, or wiping depending on what was needed. I shot most of this on primes and was swapping lenses a ton. Zooms were used though obviously. On the homage to the "One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest" shock sequence I used two follow focus units on a Canon 24-70mm f/2.8 to pull both zoom and focus by hand. Something I haven't done without a motor in a long time. Same deal for the zoom on Lindsey's face within the Brothel but using the 70-200mm f/2.8L IS. I used one other zoom, the Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 on the very wide establishing shot of the Brothel with Husbear in the foreground.

Lighting for exteriors and interior of the Brothel and Factory was pretty simple broad daylight and occasionally the use of 6x6 bounce panels to add some fill and even use as a key for a couple of the Brothel interiors. The interior homage to the Twin Peaks soap beating scene is an example of that which was used to produce that rather hard shadow on the wall. The interior Therapist Office was very different however. Depending on the shot it was either a 3 or 5 light setup. A couple blending with ambient daylight from the window that's never really seen. It was diffused through shear cotton and looked nice for a couple angles. I used tungsten and dichroic filtration, daylight flouro, and daylight LED for that interior with some colored filtration for warmth and cool. The idea was to have a somewhat colorful yet also dark scheme for that setup, which was a good thing due to the simplicity of the set. The Asylum was a 200W flouro china ball and a bit of fill from an LED camera left.

I only had six days for post work and finish. Pretty tight deadline. Lindsey performed the edit using Final Cut Pro using Quicktime proxies I made. I then relinked the .R3Ds back using RedCine-X Pro and tightened the edit up in Adobe Premiere Pro. The color correction and grade was achieved through RedCine-X Pro, Adobe Speedgrade, Adobe Premiere/After Effects, and Magic Bullet Looks for some special flare and vignette work. It was a fairly delibrate choice to go higher key with all the "crazies" for instance to produce more a dream-like feel. Comps, paint fixes, and additional blending of CG elements was all performed through After Effects. There were 22 paint fixes and that took the majority of the post time for me. No way around that. I refer to that as "ass in chair" time that just has to happen. The end composite was really the only tricky shot due to the wild non-moco tilt and tracking/blending 3k 48fps elements together. There is a 3D element added to the Therapist's Office of a picture frame with a shot of the Brothel on the wall to help fill out the set and also elude more towards the sort of mental insanity concept on display here. There wasn't too much post cropping/reframing and I usually don't like doing that, but it's there on a few shots to match head size and balance edge elements a smidge on a few wides.


Lighting

Thought I'd share some thoughts and quick notes on some lights I'm considering. I'm nuts about different types of lighting and I'm in the market for something new. If you were at NAB or Cinegear this year you probably noticed that there's a lot of new, new-ish, and old favorites being showed off. Lot's of directions you can go with light these days and many options out there. Light in general often comes down to a personal choice once you hit some technical marks. Me personally, I'm looking for something strong and daylight balanced.

Profoto 800W & 200W Air HMI
cinegear2012_Light_Profoto.jpg

These are very appealing to me. Mainly the 800 watt unit. Crisp, clean, and colorful HMI light all in a very tidy and compact package. I already own a few Profoto 2400R kits that we use for texture photography and stills. They are clearly designed to go up against the K5600 800W Joker. Profoto's balast design is very smart and compact. The ability to control the lights via "Air" to dim to 50% power wirelessly is pretty nice as well. I really like Profoto's Cine Reflector accesories and the ability to use the new HMIs with existing Profoto modifiers. They also have developed tungsten units as well.

NILA NH, JNH, Boxer, and SL LED
cinegear2012_Light_Nila.jpg

I have many mixed feeling about LEDs. Especially since one of my set has since gone extremely green over time. However, I really like what NILA is doing when it comes to their units. I'm interested in the NH and Boxer primarily. The NH and JNH are comparable to a 200W HMI in output. The only difference between the two is the JNH can be attached to each other to create light grids. The Boxer is close to an 800W-1200W HMI. They also have a newer model of the Boxer that's weather sealed for outdoor use. One thing I really, really like about NILA LED lights is their extremely rugged build quality and extremely blocky design. I can see 3 or 5 of these in a nice compact kit and having a good deal of fun setting up strange configurations quickly. You can control the units through the panel on the rear or setup a DMX controller. THey also have built in mounting points for Chimera softboxes to attach to them.

HIVE Plasma Lights (LEP)
cinegear2012_Light_Hive.jpg

I'm very excited about HIVE's lights. LEP tech promises high quality, flicker free, and cool to the touch light output. They currently offer three flavors of lights. The Hornet Fresnel; 575W HMI equiv., the Wasp Par; 400W HMI equiv., and the Killer Maxi; 1.2K HMI equiv.. On top of that they can retrofit other Fresnels and Lekos to use their LEP tech for a pretty affordable price. Bulb life is listed at 10,000+ hours, but you can likely get away with around 30,000 depending on how much color drift is acceptable to you. I like "single bulb" sources that are cool to the touch. I'm leaning towards these at the moment.

Happy Independence Hump Day!
 
Great update Phil , great music clip as well, strong visual composition. I was really disappointed there where no babes in bikinis, champagne bottles & guys with lots of bling ....& you know what........ it worked a lot better without it...anything but another boring cliche music clip. Luved the cake shot & the reverse angles. Desert light in my book hard to beat.

Was interesting to hear how you handled the camera heat issues. In Aus. we've been known to have a few days over 100 F ; ) . In fact I may be doing a job in similar circumstance coming up later this year. In the olden days I remember one Aussie DP placing a six pack of beer on plastic connectors ontop of a digibetcam to cool it down. Arhhh.....Old school.... To this day I am still really impressed with that approach. However a its no go for a Scarlet/Epic......mmm.....or is it...lol.

Dust is my worst nightmare. I have a shoot scheduled for 2 days in sand dunes with very fine sand. Still deciding how to handle that. I know the fan air/heat exchange is self enclosed but I'm still worried about lens changes in these conditions. Also subjects are low to the ground, so the camera is going to be down there as well, on mats or something will be my approach. So your post is good reference point for similar circumstance.

Given the adverse conditions you where shooting under how did you find your gear holding up? Like the manfrotto tripod, the O'connor MB & the Redrock FF, any concerns ?
 
Dust is evil. I'm sure of that. I remember a gig like in 2006 where we had a black rubber mat on a camera cart that we occasionally changed lenses on. Don't know if that helped or not. I would certainly take extra care if the camera is closer to the ground where things can get kicked up super easily. If you're in an extreme situation I can highly recommend putting electrical tape around plugs and unused sockets. Maybe even over some of the buttons even if it doesn't interfere with shooting.

The first thing I did after this shoot was clean all my gear. I've since shot 7 other jobs. No issues at all. I'm pretty sure I'd have to run over that O-Box before it gives out on me. The only issue I've had with the Manfrotto 536 legs to date was pulling one leg too hard and it popped out. A quick moment on the floor with some tools and it's been back at 100% since. I did clean the follow focus pretty good. I remember it had dust in bad areas. Blew out the whole thing and it's been fine too.

I did scratch a 0.6 ND filter sadly. No biggy though. That's bound to happen eventually.
 
Hey Phil, what were your fan settings when you ran into heat issues? Could you have raised them higher? I'm concerned about heat issues as it seems RED as no intention of fixing the thermal design until Dragon.100f/35c is hot, but its actually somewhat common here in Toronto during July and August... And our humidity makes that temp much worse (for humans and cameras).
 
Thank you Brandon.

Mike - I had it on auto from what I recall. I'm 100% confident this overheating happened due to a "perfect storm" of variables. It was over 100 degrees out, the camera was rolling for around 12 minutes, and it was in the sun. Mainly I'm writing about it as something to watch out for and prep for if possible. I haven't experienced it since. At a minimum I would bring a shade of some sort if you are in the sun.
 
Cool, thanks. You mean you *haven't* experienced it since, right? I understand they were extraordinary conditions, I'm just trying to get rid of as many variables as possible. I'm wondering if keeping the fans going full-bore (100% not auto) may have prevented the shut down from happening. As always, I appreciate your letting us know your real-world experiences with your RED.
 
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Bloody auto correct. Corrected! Haven't experienced it since and I've been shooting in both very warm and cool conditions. I do tinker with the fan a whole ton. Probably something most don't do. Auto is fine most of the time. On this shoot, as it was a music video with no audio being recorded, auto was the easy choice. I have done some close ups with dialogue where I've really lowered it's recording speed. Be careful in those situations though as after a while it will kick on.
 
As usual, one of the best posts out there! Thank you so much for sharing your tons of experience and knowledge with us!
And - also as always ;) ... great pictures, Phil! Keep up the awesome work! Already looking forward to your next post ;)
 
Another big thumbs up for the post, Phil. Your input in this forum has been one of the must see resources for new users. If there's a Scarlet camera that deserves a sticky like the Epic-M's, it's this thread and Phil's "Scully".
 
Another big thumbs up for the post, Phil. Your input in this forum has been one of the must see resources for new users. If there's a Scarlet camera that deserves a sticky like the Epic-M's, it's this thread and Phil's "Scully".

Yes - Yes - Yes!

Though I have a feeling Phil will be in the Epic section soon.
 
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Phil, you have been busy, thanks for the thread.

Do you have some pictures of your LWS setup? What are you attaching to your Scarlet body? That's a custom bottom plate?
Is your machinist taking orders for the baseplate? I assume the baseplate has LWS rods supports built in the front? I can't see by the pictures.

I am hoping for something similar that I can attach my O'Connor FF1 Follow Focus and O-Box mattbox. 9" might just about do it.

Thanks Phil.

LWS 15mm Rod Notes
Just some useful notes for those interested in using LWS 15mm Rods and still lenses. I am using 7 inch and 9 inch rods. I have decided for my uses 9 inch rods will stay on the rig the vast majority of the time. Long enough to support 200mm and 300mm glass and just short enough to stay out of frame of the Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 at 4k. My machinist came through and provided a new sturdier baseplate that is about 80% of what the View Factor plate is, just with some extra mounting options. My top plate should be done next week.
 
Will, My rig has gone through a few transformations. My first LWS 15mm setup was a simple 15mm clamp bolted onto a drilled out Manfrotto baseplate. If you are looking for compact, that's about as compact as you can physically get. Then my machinist came through and created a baseplate that's very similar to the Viewfactor plate, with just a couple of simple modifications. My top plate never was actually built sadly. I needed to rig up an additional camera for a two camera shoot not long ago and I ended up purchasing a Gini cage with LWS 15mm, 19mm rods, and the ability to use a bolt on dovetail plate. This now lives on my Scarlet and I have the other components for situations when we need more than one camera.

Here's what it commonly looks like these days:
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Gotta admit. I change things out depending on the shoot. If I fly the camera on a steadicam or even on a jib I'll swap out to that first 15mm LWS plate.

Based on my experiences I will rig my cameras with LWS 15mm and 19mm with a dovetail from here on out. Whether it's Red gear, WC, or "other".

In terms of rod length I'm primarily on 9" carbon fiber 15mm. Works as wide as 11mm and allows up to 300mm comfortably with lens support. I usually have my OConnor O-Box WM on my rig and 9" works for damn near every situation. Here's a side profile image:

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The key thing for me is modularity, which the Red Scarlet and Epic excel at. I've probably configured the camera a couple dozen ways with very little setup time. And the fact that you can get it down in size to do silly things like this:

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Is utterly fantastic.
 
Hi Phil,

Firstly thanks for all the info re Scarlet, secondly I see you have a small dolly on the piano, who manufactures those, l have a smaller version made by Peco but is too small for the Scarlet.
 

It's been a while since I've updated or discussed a topic, but I'll get something up next week.


Hi Phil,

Firstly thanks for all the info re Scarlet, secondly I see you have a small dolly on the piano, who manufactures those, l have a smaller version made by Peco but is too small for the Scarlet.

I randomly was at FilmTools (in Burbank) the day before this shoot and I saw this cute Konova tabletop dolly sitting all alone in the back. It was like $150, but I started imagining using it on the piano surface, so I grabbed it. I have used it one other time since then. It's not the best tabletop dolly I've used, but it's the least expensive by far and supports the weight of the Red Scarlet just fine. It came with a swanky little orange and black zip up carrying case which protects the wheels.
 
Yes I've been thinking about this jib lately also
 
Dreaming of jibs?

I haven't actually bought one just yet, but maybe in two weeks. I'll have a need for one again on a project. I've used it a couple times since I wrote about the jib though (on a project that won't out until next October). It's really a nice design and very quick to setup. I like the reach of the jib. I'm pretty confident they offer the 66lb counter weight kit now because of my feedback a few months ago. It's plenty sturdy for an Epic and Scarlet. I've used that REMO30 with the Scarlet too and it works nicely. I'm pretty sure it can take up to 20lbs once balanced, but they list an 11 pound payload. You can get the camera weight down by mounting power elsewhere if you are concerned. It can hold a camera, lens, battery, and FIZ though. Even underslung it with the Manfrotto 509HD via mounting a plate to the top plate of the camera. Which looked silly but was real quick to do.

I gave them a couple suggestions on some AKS and an add-on for the center column. They seemed to like those ideas.

Rent or buy I'll take some shots and do a write up on it after the next shoot. Right now it's my go to for that size.
 
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