Mike P.
Well-known member
From the RED VV manual p.78
"ISO NOTE: To see the full range of ISO ratings, select ISO in the Upper Status Row, select Edit List, and select Custom. Select the camera ISO rating. The sensitivity value increments in 1/3 stops. When the ISO rating is adjusted, the camera logs the change as metadata and the monitor path reacts accordingly. Higher ISO values lead to brighter images in the monitor path, and vice versa. RED recommends setting the ISO to the default, then adjusting the aperture, lighting, and ND filters to match. The ISO can later be adjusted around one (1) stop for fine-tuning. Range is ISO 250 to 12,800. Default is ISO 800."
If the dynamic range is the same and the default is 800 why are we debayering at iso 3200?
Also how is there any way to compare the two camera sensor sensitivities to a xyla chart when Monstro has a custom LUT on top of Log3G10?
Setting the ISO (aka monitor path) to a higher/lower ISO while shooting will have a direct effect on how you physically light/expose a scene. Hence why the *higher* ISOs appear to capture more highlight information (because you'll end up using physical exposure tools -- ND, shutter, aperture, and/or less light -- to get your exposure down/correct).
The trick is finding a balance of noise/usable DR that you're personally comfortable with. RED suggest ~800 because it's the safest relatively bright/relatively clean ISO across their line. So much so that I think all the raw exposure checks - Gio scope, raw view, goal posts, stop lights - use ISO800/RLF as the base (regardless of OLPF and sensor, and regardless of the ISO you've selected for monitoring).
For this test specifically, Phil may have lit the dark scene at 800 (as that's the recommended default for both cameras), but then debayered/rendered at ISO3200~12800 to exaggerate and show the noise/grain structure of the sensors (which Monstro clearly dominated at, even after crappy youtube compression.)
Sidenote: This is another area where I think Arri does it better. They recommend ISO800 because it's not only clean across the entire DR, but also because that's where their exposure has even over/under (-7/+7). It makes it easier/more straightforward, and adjusting the ISO moves the stops up or down in a simple way -- (e.g. ISO1600 is ~-6/+8, ISO100 is -10/+4, etc.)
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