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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Re-thinking Power

Isaac Marchionna

Isaac Marchionna

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I'll keep this as succinct as possible, because I'm either going to double down on the RedVolts, or change entirely.

So the situation is this, for what I'm doing at work we're recording to both 4k (soon to be 5K with the Epic coming in 2-3 weeks) on Scarlet (with Quad Battery Module), while also running a Sound Devices PIX 240. Driving both devices currently requires being tethered to a wall via AC, or running L-Type batteries in the Pix 240.

So I find myself with two choices:

1. Invest in something like the RedVolt XLs to drive the camera and just suck it up and run batteries on the PIX. *Cheaper cost for the XLs and L-Types but more weight*

2. Ditch the quad battery module and switch to something like the RED Bricks and be able to run the camera and PIX off one source (using a D-Tap cable). *Lighter weight but much more expensive*

The rub here is that with the upcoming '+1' module (being able to run the EVF and LCD together), I'm not totally sure you're able to use the module adapter AND a RED Brick setup.

Thoughts?
 
Just wondering, for what reason are you running the pix ?

I understand having one over at the video bay for quick replay and such but I never understood having one strapped to the camera, can you explain?
 
I'm running the PIX because it's a great way to do proxy edits or just straight editing using the ProRes HQ footage since right now the majority of our work heads out to Vimeo, and usually on crazy time crunches. We're a product design house, where we're documenting a lot of our process, production, and ideation. This usually means documenting design and creation in groups of people on the fly. Having the PIX on the camera lets me keep as mobile as I can.

In fully disclosure our video bay is non-existant, and our editing hardware is modest so I can back up our R3D files for later use or marketing work (frame grabs, etc), while being able to keep computer time to a minimum.
 
Bite the bullet and get industry standard batteries. How many times do you want to be in the situation where everything is perfect but you need to wait for the 2nd AC to show up with another battery for the Pix--or he/she can't slate, because she's running to recharge one of 4 in the camera? Get a bunch of 140Wh + batteries and you'll never look back. (Red bricks are 140 Wh)

If Red bricks are too expensive for you, get third party options from www.beillen.tv, globalmediapro, etc. All the same cells just packaged differently.
 
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I bought a bunch of 95Wh batteries that power my external monitor and other accessories and the camera... and they die after an hour and 20 minutes. I can't imagine changing batteries any faster than that, especially if I'm shooting documentary alone. So if you go the external route, get big'uns, and the weight will nicely counterbalance the camera on your shoulder...

Also I just picked up the Battery slide from the company called camera of wood. Smart little design sides up for shooting on sticks, slides down in 2 seconds for shooting handheld.
 
Actually the Wooden Camera Battery slider on a 19mm rail set would probably be the way to go, especially since it keeps the eventual +1 module adapter. And can be balanced.
 
Isaac,

I started out on Redvolts, but eventually switched to Redbricks. Yes, the Redvolts are lighter, but I really want as few interruptions on set as possible. I can be a little impatient sometimes.
 
This thread title really caught my attention. I'm really interested in the power management improvements that Jarred said should be coming in the big December firmware update. Can I ask a newbie question (i'm not trying to hijack here)? How do RedBricks compare to Anton Bauer batteries and such? It would be nice to see in one place the 5 most popular power scenarios for Red cameras and the specific product names involved.
 
In theory, better power management should affect power draw across the board. Let's say there's an intelligent standby mode that pulls 30W instead of the usual 50W--you'll see longer battery life no mater what you're using. But that's "in theory." I'd trust Red to work in something extra-clever for their own brand.

The use of Red batteries will not void your warranty if anything power-related damages the camera. Depending on accessories, the Red batteries draw:

Red: RedVolt (.3 - .5hr)
Red: RedBrick (1.5-2.2hr)

If anything power-related damages your camera, 3rd party batteries will void your warranty coverage. 3rd party batteries draw according to their watt-hour rating. Runtime in hours = Batter Wh / camera draw (about 60W with display).

www.antonbauer.com
www.idxtek.com
www.switronix.com
www.beillen.tv (I like these because they say "beillen" on the back instead of "global media pro")
www.globalmediapro.com

Many people prefer AB mount over V mount because if you use your camera a lot, the V-mount connection wears down a bit, and then a nudge can loosen the connection. Think adjusting the camera on your shoulder for handheld, or moving the camera on a hi-hat, all times it's happened to me.
 
Run Scarlet and Pix240 all day (via D-tap) with 3 - 150wt V-bricks. Quick, convenient and I think quite a bit cheaper than your current setup. 150wt chinese Bricks (where I think 70% of the market sources them) at $260 per. WITH a charger (so: 3 chargers) and free shipping off ebay. Can only sympathize what it must be like carting the PIX with 2 big-assed sony batteries attached. MUCH sweeter with the D-tap, no matter how you end up powering the camera...

Stu Aull
SX 199
Alaska
 
Jason, pardon my ignorance, but do you mean it'll basically have a D-Tap port on the side? If so that may be a good stop gap till I can spool up on RedBricks.
 
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