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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Nikon Mount

chuck colburn said:
Not always. More commonly on long focale lengths.
Click to expand...

well I have about 20 nikon lenses and they all go past infinity but i think the oldest lens I have is 30 years old. I have the 300mm 2.8 and it goes past infinity. same with 600mm f4

well it sounds like its all NIKON ED glass that has no infinity focus stop. Otherwise yeah you'll have to collimate the mount. but those of you focusing by eye with ED glass will possibly be fine.
 
setting the flange focal distance

setting the flange focal distance

Hey, I just had a thought. It might be possible and very convenient to put marks on the adjustable RED collar, the part that you attach the PL or Nikon mount to. One mark on the camera, and one mark on the collar for each adapter. Now in theory you shouldn't have to reset the depth for a new adapter, and you just might not, but given the extreme tolerances involved and the variations in the black art of anodizing (variances in electromagnetic fields, dip time, dye/chemical strength etc) there may be a difference in the rotation of the adjustable collar for each mount.

So you have a mark on the adjustable collar for ARRI PL (mark the position as it came from the factory before you change it) then another mark for the Nikon mount.

Now the reason this should work is that the adjustable mount seems to have no play, or backlash, as far as I can tell. So you could swap mounts in only a few minutes and just rotate the adjustable collar to the new mark without doing the whole chart and tape test. Could really cut down on the time to swap mounts, making it possible to do in the field.

Well it probably would be best to confirm with the chart and tape, but I'll give this a try and see how it goes. If it works, I'll post a new video on Youtube showing how to do it.

If this is confusing, please go to Youtube and search on RED CAMERA LENS MOUNT to see the two videos where I swap mounts.

Since i GOT MY VERY OWN RED TODAY (Wahoo!!) this should be easy to check out. And no, I paid full price for it, didn't get it as some special deal. Not even that $2,500 coupon! And I'm quite happy to pay that money. This camera is da bomb. Is that what you young folk say these days?
 
Sounds like a great idea Douglas. Let us know how your tests work out.
Congrats on getting your Red. I hope you'll come up with some interesting accessories for it! :)
 
OMG, please ship me mine now!!



Congrats Doug, looking forward to cool stuff from you...
 
For what it's worth, I already have this mount on my RED. . . got it directly from Mr. Underdahl before RED decided to get into the act. . . and it is fantastic! Works like a charm! He did a great job. Mine isn't black anodized, though. :-( It was an early issue. I need to figure out something to kill that shine.

Stephen
 
Angryseven said:
Stephen would you be able to share any of your prized footage or stills?
Click to expand...

We are just now doing some RED tests. . . but my DP is very excited about the look we're getting. I've never posted a pic here on REDUser. . . can anyone give me a tip on uploading a TIFF??? And don't bust a gut here. . . what we've shot is NOT terrifically exciting stuff!

Stephen
 
If you hit the A icon in the top right, if will give you drop down for advanced options. Hit the 'Manage Attachments' button at the bottom.
 
Well, I tried. . . but it didn't work. I'll need complete step by step instructions.

Sorry.

Stephen
 
You can't upload TIFF files and to zip them, they still have to be under 97.7k. You may want to convert them to JPG files and then upload those. The JPG resolution limit is 1024x1024 and file size limit is just under 1MB.

Once you do that, here are the step by step directions:
1. Click Post Reply for this thread.
2. Click the little paperclip icon.
3. In the pop-up window, choose your JPG files.
4. Click the top Upload button.
5. Then click Submit Reply.
 
i think the max you can upload to reduser is 2mg file and Tiff is not one of the OK type files ..
you could put a link to another url where you have the tiff's ?

to upload a max 2mgs file ... hit the red icon "files upload center " ..use BROWSE to select your file on your computer .. then hit UPLOAD ... when it is finished you then COPY the window ( location where file is on reduser site) and paste that into your post ...

if you have files on your site you can hit the "insert image " and copy in your url ..
 
They replace it. . . you take the PL mount off and put the Nikon mount on.

This is a stop gap for me until the Canon/Birger comes out, but it works very, very well.

Stephen
 
Okay. . . here is a BRUTALLY processed image. It was taken on the first night we fired up the camera, using practicals for lights (hence the harsh highlight on her forehead). It is of my younger daughter, Barri, who was home on Spring Break after a grueling quad, so be kind about the subject. She'll kill me as it is when she finds out she's on a post!

Here's the story:

1. Originally shot in 3K.
2. Minimally processed in REDAlert
3. REDAlert into a TIFF.
4. Cropped (on the left side only), converted, and downsized into a jpg using iPhoto.

It aint much. . . but it WAS shot with the Underdahl Nikon mount and a Nikon 85mm lens.

Stephen
 
One more. . . pointed my RED up at the ceiling to just see how well it dealt with highs and lows (BRILLIANTLY!).

Same processing (except it wasn't cropped). . . and, just so everyone knows. . . the fan blades were turning (on slow).

Stephen
 
Douglas Underdahl said:
Hey, I just had a thought. It might be possible and very convenient to put marks on the adjustable RED collar, the part that you attach the PL or Nikon mount to. One mark on the camera, and one mark on the collar for each adapter. Now in theory you shouldn't have to reset the depth for a new adapter, and you just might not, but given the extreme tolerances involved and the variations in the black art of anodizing (variances in electromagnetic fields, dip time, dye/chemical strength etc) there may be a difference in the rotation of the adjustable collar for each mount.

So you have a mark on the adjustable collar for ARRI PL (mark the position as it came from the factory before you change it) then another mark for the Nikon mount.

Now the reason this should work is that the adjustable mount seems to have no play, or backlash, as far as I can tell. So you could swap mounts in only a few minutes and just rotate the adjustable collar to the new mark without doing the whole chart and tape test. Could really cut down on the time to swap mounts, making it possible to do in the field.

Well it probably would be best to confirm with the chart and tape, but I'll give this a try and see how it goes. If it works, I'll post a new video on Youtube showing how to do it.

If this is confusing, please go to Youtube and search on RED CAMERA LENS MOUNT to see the two videos where I swap mounts.

Since i GOT MY VERY OWN RED TODAY (Wahoo!!) this should be easy to check out. And no, I paid full price for it, didn't get it as some special deal. Not even that $2,500 coupon! And I'm quite happy to pay that money. This camera is da bomb. Is that what you young folk say these days?
Click to expand...
Anxiously awaiting your test.
 
Last one. . . I'm NOT a DP. . . so I won't subject myself to any more potential ridicule, but I like this shot. This one was shot in 4K using the Underdahl mount and the Nikon 85mm. Same processing as above (but not cropped).

Stephen
 
The plant shot is great...

How are you finding these lenses as far as breathing, sharpness, ease of finding focus, etc?
 
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