Welcome to our community

Be a part of something great, join today!

Register Log in
  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

News from Cool Lights

From my experience the CDM globes are more durable than quartz halogen. I just accidentally knocked a 150w CDM over that was on a short baby stand (about 18" off concrete floor). The globe survived and was on during the fall.
 
Richard Andrewski said:
Hehe, you're prepared then. Picture a cross between the two. Something about the same size as the CL-455P (but thinner), a bit lighter and filled with LEDs instead of reflectors and flo tubes. There you go.
Click to expand...

I'll take two. :smile5:
 
Mr. Andrewski,

I'm looking to start building a decent light kit for my short film work. I have about $2000 to spend...do you have any recommendation on what would be the best budget setup to purchase from you?

Thanks,
Andrew
 
Hi Richard,

I would love to see Cool Lights at NAB with a 2500! what say ya?
 
Andrew Thomas said:
Mr. Andrewski,

I'm looking to start building a decent light kit for my short film work. I have about $2000 to spend...do you have any recommendation on what would be the best budget setup to purchase from you?

Thanks,
Andrew
Click to expand...

Richard is fine ;-)

This is often a long conversation. A lot of it depends upon the size of scenes you plan to stage. A common kit today is made up of LED fixtures that we sell quite often now. LEDs are about the king of efficiency now and can be used in many instances in the place of a fresnel or flo. Not a complete replacement but many times can work.

For instance, an LED 600 flood, spot and 1 or 2 LED 256. They have their limitations but they can be used anywhere you mainly wanted to flood an area with light and shadows are not important or can be vague and undefined.

When you want finer control or well defined shadows for "drama" so to speak, you go back to fresnels--either tungsten or CDM (HMI) types. When you want to flood a very large area with light, say green screens, its hard to beat fluorescent for economy.

Something to think about. You can also write to me at info@coollights.biz with further questions as well. Thanks for your interest.
 
Paul Hazlett said:
Hi Richard,

I would love to see Cool Lights at NAB with a 2500! what say ya?
Click to expand...

Hi Paul,

Wish I could. One of these days we'll try to do NAB. I still feel that we are in development mode and have been spending most of my time on that. Marketing hasn't been so much a problem so NAB hasn't yet been a priority for us. We are working hard on the biggest LED fixtures now and hope to release the 1200 before too long then the 2400 after that. Thanks for keeping after us!
 
Hi Richard,
First to the Reduser folks - hey, I've been reading for a while but my first post. Great group of people and nice body of work.

I'd love some thoughts from 600 and 256 users.

We do a mix of broadcast and doc work, studio and location, usually with 2 - 3 person crew and often behind the camera myself. Mobility and ease of setup is a key requirement with everything I do these days. I just spent two years doing profiles and 2 short films on the Olympics and realize now how great it would have been to have an all LED, battery powered kit.

So before I start the next project I'm going to do just that. I've got about 5k watts of 5600 flos so if I need more wash and softer light I'm covered.

What I'd love to know is whether anyone is using Endura V-mounts like the E-7s with there 600s. Because so much of what we do requires traveling out to difficult locations sometimes with backpack kits - lighter and smaller is better. Again, because the batteries and fixtures are so small I'm leaning toward a good balance of the 256s.
Am I right that the photometrics show that the 256 is actually as powerful as the standard 12x12 Litepanel?

Anyway, my basic plan for a small kit is 3x 256, 2x 600 flood and a 600 spot.

So would the Enduras E-7s work or simply be too light weight and how about the Sony 970 for the 256?

Thanks
 
Last edited:
Hi Jim,

I don't know of anyone specifically using that battery but it would give a bit over an hour at 71WH capacity which is what it says that model is on the web.
 
I use the 600's with B4B (150Wh). They work very well but I have not timed them for battery life. My guess would be well over an hour, Having that option has been quite helpful.
 
Jim Giberti said:
So would the Enduras E-7s work or simply be too light weight and how about the Sony 970 for the 256?
Click to expand...

As chance would have it, I just used an E-7s on a 600 fixture today (they haven't gotten much workout since our RED arrived). It felt like it lasted for about an hour - though it is always hard to judge time under shooting conditions.

I find it amazing to see how much light these babies pump out, and how long such a small battery lasts.

Hope this helps.
 
Thanks Martin, the approx. hour for the E-7s is what Richard had suggested in an email. I like the option of the smaller v-mount for some location work and traveling light.

Nice look on the kids shoot. Was that with the CL softbox? Curious if you used the -1/4 green filter or just graded?

Jim
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top