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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

New toys... (IndiSlider, stupid lights & 200mm F2 Nikkor)

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  • #21
Well, I took off the plate and replaced the screw with a longer 3/8" brass screw held in place by a lock washer on the bottom. Next I used a large, thick washer to clear the smaller attachment screws and finally the bottom of my 2575 has a Cardellini head lock which just happens to have a fully drilled and tapped locating pin, which I removed and replaced with a 1/4" 20 hex bolt. To get the head on I screw it on to the locked 3/8" bolt and use the 1/4" 20 as an anti-twist anchor against the base. It's a slow attachment but it's solid. Still, it shouldn't be that hard to make a true mitchell bottom, I'd also like to spread the gliders out more for stability.
 
Evin Grant said:
Well, I took off the plate and replaced the screw with a longer 3/8" brass screw held in place by a lock washer on the bottom. Next I used a large, thick washer to clear the smaller attachment screws and finally the bottom of my 2575 has a Cardellini head lock which just happens to have a fully drilled and tapped locating pin, which I removed and replaced with a 1/4" 20 hex bolt. To get the head on I screw it on to the locked 3/8" bolt and use the 1/4" 20 as an anti-twist anchor against the base. It's a slow attachment but it's solid. Still, it shouldn't be that hard to make a true mitchell bottom, I'd also like to spread the gliders out more for stability.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the details. Any chance you could post a picture? I follow what you said except for the cardellini head lock and how the 1/4" bolt prevents the head from twisting ...

If you made a true mitchell bottom how would you attach the head? (The threads would have to match up exactly with the "lock" of the mitchell base would they not? Since there really isn't any room underneath the plate to tighten the screw...)
 
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  • #24
I'l try to post photos later tonight. The Cardelini head lock is what makes it possible because you don't need a tie down screw.
cinemasupplies_2033_503877608

http://www.filmtools.com/caheloforoch.html
 
Great stuff Evin, and definitely looking forward to have you in one of my projects, I like your attitude of things, shooting and making images with the absolute best this industry has to offer when there is a budget for, is easy, but
creating creatively in a low to no budget is a different story.

BTW, as for the (Stupid lights :)) the ones you used are 85W @ 5000k as the ones I linked above but I also have the 200W bulbs which produce each 12000 lumens fallowing the link http://www.servicelighting.com/Maxlite-35871-SKO200EA50-Twist-Compact-Fluorescent-Light-Bulb this are great bulbs.

ciao
 
Evin:

Thanks for all the info. This is exactly why I frequent this forum. Do you know what the going rate is for the 200mm Nikkor?

Thanks,

Nick.
 
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  • #30
You can get already converted ones for around $4-5K but the original lens alone sells for $1500 and a PL conversion is about $2000, so it's 6 in one and 1/2 dozen of the other.
I'd suggest calling Martin at Isaia or Visual products first and then look into a conversion.

Or just use it with the Red Nikon mount.

Here's one on e-bay for $1300
2b23_12.JPG

http://cgi.ebay.com/Nikon-Nikkor-AI...9|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50
 
hey Evin, thanks for the write-up!

I'm curious, why go 5000k for the stupid lights? Why not jump up and hit 5500k so you could better mix with incoming daylight?
 
I'd get non-paper Chinaballs and get three socket splitters... make a tree with four 30W 5500k for a total equivalent of 500w tungsten. The trick is to keep the China assembled as much as possible and to add a little modification to hold the tree in place. What is nice is that you can add or subtract bulbs easily. But if you need to stay agile I'd use the single 5000k bulbs for sure, of course, so hardly worth the hassle unless you get the thing nice and stable inside by tying it down with something... if they just made 50W bulbs at least, then it could be worth it with a total 800w tungsten.
 
Evin, what fixtures are you using for the stupid lights? do you have a link to something I could see?
 
Brandon said:
Evin, what fixtures are you using for the stupid lights? do you have a link to something I could see?
Click to expand...

I'm curious as well ....


Also for those of you who were not aware this is a great little adapter for using a China ball with a C-Stand: LANTERN LOCK
 
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  • #37
Just your standard Home Depot clip light fixture. I just picked up one of theses RP lights from Filmtools, it's OK but not really any better than the home depot specials.
XL-2V647.JPG

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2V647

cinemasupplies_2033_391317373

http://www.filmtools.com/rps12cesorer.html

For the lantern I used a Chimera and star fixture which I already owned for my Joker. But the lantern locks are a kick ass, cheap way to achieve the same quality in a pro fixture.

cinemasupplies_2033_363338544

http://www.filmtools.com/chmomebasoan.html

cinemasupplies_2033_188989838

http://www.filmtools.com/ch20chlacat1.html

Lantern locks...
http://www.filmtools.com/lanternlock-24-mogul-socket.html
 
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