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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

KOMODO....

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Just watched the ZCams work with a phone, thinking what the hell does my DSMC2 not do this:mad: Get this in my hands, I’ve waited so long...... It was pretty slick usb c and over wireless...
 
Jarred Land said:
Bingo. And IOS shortly after.
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My mind is abuzz with ideas...
Say, might there be a RedCine for the new iPad Pro that can be hooked up via USB-C...???
That’d be so cool!
But personally I’d be even more interested in the possibility of an Iodine Tablet...
See, in my head Hydrogen is the RED Media Machine, to take on other handheld smart devices.
But a RED Iodine Tablet is the best thing you can have as a Komodo Wrangler if you are going on a thermonuclear war against other Compact Cinema Cameras!!!
:emote_head_explode::emote_head_explode::emote_head_explode:
 
Gregory Karydis said:
My mind is abuzz with ideas...
Say, might there be a RedCine for the new iPad Pro that can be hooked up via USB-C...???
That’d be so cool!
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Komodo + iPad Pro tethering pls and thank you.
 
Gregory Karydis said:
And I sure hope we can have a version of it on the Komodo... :)
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This is one other reason I really think 60fps is a must on the Komodo. HDRx is dependent on the maximum framerate possible in order to put one lower exposure frame after the primary exposure. Processing-wise, from what I understand, it's only about what framerates that are possible. If we get 50 fps on this thing, we will be able to do 25 fps HDRx on it. Lower than 50 fps will make HDRx impossible. This is another reason why I think 50 fps is a minimum top framerate at 6K.
 
Christoffer Glans said:
This is one other reason I really think 60fps is a must on the Komodo. HDRx is dependent on the maximum framerate possible in order to put one lower exposure frame after the primary exposure. Processing-wise, from what I understand, it's only about what framerates that are possible. If we get 50 fps on this thing, we will be able to do 25 fps HDRx on it. Lower than 50 fps will make HDRx impossible. This is another reason why I think 50 fps is a minimum top framerate at 6K.
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Christian, do you have some pointers to work you've done with HDRx. It something I've often thought about, but it's a capability that's always remained in the toolbox for me. I'd love to find a way to make more distinctive use of the tools I have, but haven't really found a good way to work HDRx into my production plans.
 
Michael Tiemann said:
Christian, do you have some pointers to work you've done with HDRx. It something I've often thought about, but it's a capability that's always remained in the toolbox for me. I'd love to find a way to make more distinctive use of the tools I have, but haven't really found a good way to work HDRx into my production plans.
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Not really much too it, just turn it on and expose normally. When you're in a situation where there are very hot highlights, like a bright sky or you need to see through a window from inside without overlighting the inside, it's a great way to just expand the DR to 25 stops if needed. Then you have to do some work in post to make it look good, I usually put some post-motion blur on the X-Track to cover up the sharp edges of the faster shutter on it. I wouldn't do much hand-held action shots with it though, since each frame of each exposure level ends up one after another, so at a higher camera movement speed, it's gonna be pretty visible. But for most types of shots, it works great.

I recommend just trying it, film from inside a dark tunnel or room and expose the room normally, then use the X-track to pull back the overexposed areas.
 
Christoffer Glans said:
Not really much too it, just turn it on and expose normally. When you're in a situation where there are very hot highlights, like a bright sky or you need to see through a window from inside without overlighting the inside, it's a great way to just expand the DR to 25 stops if needed. Then you have to do some work in post to make it look good, I usually put some post-motion blur on the X-Track to cover up the sharp edges of the faster shutter on it. I wouldn't do much hand-held action shots with it though, since each frame of each exposure level ends up one after another, so at a higher camera movement speed, it's gonna be pretty visible. But for most types of shots, it works great.

I recommend just trying it, film from inside a dark tunnel or room and expose the room normally, then use the X-track to pull back the overexposed areas.
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I've tried that but failed when reflections of exteriors are bright enough in the dark areas that they make contrast/brightness adjustments of the bright areas look all fake and wrong. I guess that's why there are so many giant rugs in castle interiors!
 
Michael Tiemann said:
I guess that's why there are so many giant rugs in castle interiors!
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Exactly how medieval HDRX used to work!
Rumour has it that later on, Vermeer employed a similar method :001_tongue:
 
Michael Tiemann said:
I've tried that but failed when reflections of exteriors are bright enough in the dark areas that they make contrast/brightness adjustments of the bright areas look all fake and wrong. I guess that's why there are so many giant rugs in castle interiors!
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The trick with HDRx is:

Trurn it on.
Set it to choose amount of stops. Like 2 stops or so. Depends what you do but if there is a lot of motion then I would not do more. 2 stops means your xtrack lost 3/4 of its motion blur and is down to 45 deg if you shoot 180 deg.
Then very important look a the Xtrack and expose is right under clip. In other words tap the xTrack view button, look at your stoplights and open up until the stoplights goes on then dial back one stop.



The above will give you a A track with exposure for your lowlights and the Xtrack will have coverage for your highlights. In other words to make use of hdrx your a track needs to be overexposed or it has no use.

You could also up your shutter to lets say 360 deg and get more motion blur than normal in your highlight, and more normal motion blur in your lowlights, so that is another parameter to balance in / think about.

The common trouble / error people do is that they turn on HDRx but then expose with the A track right under clip. That does not give more latitude as the the Xtrack is a fraction of the A track the X track needs to be right under or on clip.

And yes what Christoffer says, if you render out the two passes and add motion analys based motion blur onto the X track things will look Better when there is a lot of movement / that will help the shorter exposure for the X track. A bit fiddly process if there is a lot of shots and such but not big thing once you have it set up.
 
Cool tips, thanks.
Luca Bigazzi told me once he use HDRx very often but I thought it was all about big post budgets, his talent and experience on lighting. Personally, I dismissed HDRx right after using it, years ago, finding weird motion. I'll have another look for sure..
 
One of the best uses I have found for the HDRx is when using the camera for time lapses where you have some crazy contrast and hi light issues. IE Sunset or reflections on water etc etc.. Its a supper cool tool to have. Un like any other camera out there.
 
It's been awhile since a significant Komdo update. If shipping is still set for end of year, I'd think we'd be close to an official announcement. Any update on timeline?
 
Russ Fill said:
One of the best uses I have found for the HDRx is when using the camera for time lapses where you have some crazy contrast and hi light issues. IE Sunset or reflections on water etc etc.. Its a supper cool tool to have. Un like any other camera out there.
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That makes a lot of sense to me.
 
Björn Benckert said:
In other words to make use of hdrx your a track needs to be overexposed or it has no use.
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OMG that makes so much sense. I've been mostly not very impressed with it up till now. I can't wait to try that out.
 
Other than HDRX the frame averaging and summing features are very useful as well, for time lapses and cleaner lowlight recordings. Those features obviously require higher framerates as well.
 
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