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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Komodo + DJI RS 2

Has anyone seen or tried to fly a Sigma 18-35mm T2 cine on an RS2 with the Komodo? It's 1400g but I think I would be able to balance it with a v-lock and the weight is fairly close in to the mount.
 
Hi Alex, not sure about the sigma but I've balanced the RS2 including briefcase the Canon CP 85mm (1.3kg) with the matte box.
Here the link, you'll find a video and a couple of stills: https://www.instagram.com/stories/highlights/17858223773253167/
After that, I tweaked it a bit buying the Smallrig plate (instead of the DJI), and 2 BP915 batteries, which I use only for counterbalance, while I've attached an external v-lock to the DC. The BP915 costs less then 10€ on amazon, they last 15min or so, which is cool because you can change the v-lock without turning off the komodo.

Screen-Shot-2021-04-16-at-13-47-20.png
 
Carlo De Agostini said:
Hi Alex, not sure about the sigma but I've balanced the RS2 including briefcase the Canon CP 85mm (1.3kg) with the matte box.
Here the link, you'll find a video and a couple of stills: https://www.instagram.com/stories/highlights/17858223773253167/
After that, I tweaked it a bit buying the Smallrig plate (instead of the DJI), and 2 BP915 batteries, which I use only for counterbalance, while I've attached an external v-lock to the DC. The BP915 costs less then 10€ on amazon, they last 15min or so, which is cool because you can change the v-lock without turning off the komodo.

Screen-Shot-2021-04-16-at-13-47-20.png
Click to expand...

Hey Carlo,
Thanks for sharing. I was wondering if connecting everything via dtap splitter would be a problem due to the sdi 12g connector on the komodo? Does anyone know it that has an effect if one Battery detached from the camera will also have the chance to frie the sdi when the dtap is connected + first?

Thanks
 
Alexander_Klose said:
Hey Carlo,
Thanks for sharing. I was wondering if connecting everything via dtap splitter would be a problem due to the sdi 12g connector on the komodo? Does anyone know it that has an effect if one Battery detached from the camera will also have the chance to frie the sdi when the dtap is connected + first?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Yes if the Dtap is removed or attached to the battery when all is hooked up you run a risk of frying the whole setup.
 
Carlo De Agostini said:
Not sure what it means, isn't it dangerous for the SDI only when the accessory is connected to P-TAP? In my setup the SDI converter is connected via USB to the RS2? Thanks

https://support.red.com/hc/en-us/articles/360057166453-Preventing-Damage-to-SDI-Outputs
Click to expand...

Difficult to tell by looking at the picture. What is the Dtap actually powering / connected to?

What red and other manufacturer wants is that all cables have shielding that connects before the + pol is connected... Dtap does not have such.
 
Björn Benckert said:
Difficult to tell by looking at the picture. What is the Dtap actually powering / connected to?

What red and other manufacturer wants is that all cables have shielding that connects before the + pol is connected... Dtap does not have such.
Click to expand...

It powers the camera using the red original ptap cable
 
Carlo De Agostini said:
It powers the camera using the red original ptap cable
Click to expand...

As I understand, When you do. The right procidure for swaping power source is... Yes sounds crazy. To first unplug the 2pin lemo out of the camera. Then swap battery on the Dtap. Then insert the lemo back into the camera. That way you are using a shielded cable when power surge goes into the camera... If swapping battery on the Dtap you risk of applying the + pol before the - pol and when you do you might fry things.

That is if I understood the Arri documents and what red writes in their manuals correctly.

In my mind... for us that simply will not apply to the full safy protocol like this there is a little smaller safty precaution that could be done when insert a Dtap. IF you angle the Dtap slightly so the - pol connects before the + pol... then in theory your running a smaller risk of having the stuff go bye bye... But dont hold me accountable for it. :)
 
Björn Benckert said:
As I understand, When you do. The right procidure for swaping power source is... Yes sounds crazy. To first unplug the 2pin lemo out of the camera. Then swap battery on the Dtap. Then insert the lemo back into the camera. That way you are using a shielded cable when power surge goes into the camera... If swapping battery on the Dtap you risk of applying the + pol before the - pol and when you do you might fry things.

That is if I understood the Arri documents and what red writes in their manuals correctly.

In my mind... for us that simply will not apply to the full safy protocol like this there is a little smaller safty precaution that could be done when insert a Dtap. IF you angle the Dtap slightly so the - pol connects before the + pol... then in theory your running a smaller risk of having the stuff go bye bye... But dont hold me accountable for it. :)
Click to expand...


Thanks Björn!
 
https://tilta.com/shop/battery-plate-to-rs-2-power-pass-through-plate-kit/?aff=Syndicate

Anyone got the tilta rs2 battery plate yet? Seams smart to move the battery away from the back of the camera to underneath and sorts all kinds of power needs for focus motors, transmitters etc. Even though the weight of it all is still stressing the motors. Fun to see how tilta that you to be the copy cat is kind of running in the forefront on these things now.
 
That’s actually pretty damn ingenious. The bottom of the plate can take the Ravens Eye or their Gold mount or V mount plate (removable/swappable) and if your’re not running a GM or VM batt, you can run power into any one of the four power connection ports and it will feed out of the other 3 ports.
 
Kwan Khan said:
Can you control the RS2 focus motor with this remote?
Click to expand...

Yes the joystick reset and focus wheel on the backside works just the same as those on the gimbal handle but wireless. Runs all day on a little gopro battery inside.
 
Björn Benckert said:
Yes the joystick reset and focus wheel on the backside works just the same as those on the gimbal handle but wireless. Runs all day on a little gopro battery inside.
Click to expand...

Hey Bjorn, iv been looking for something that does exactly this. Do you know if there's anyway to purchase the Tilta Wireless Thumb Controller separately? I've looked everywhere online I can't seem to find the controller.
 
Björn,

In your custom RS2 rig, you have a Vaxis Atom 600 KV, and modified the V-Mount to put in under the camera (better balance / increase rear clearance).

Question : If you were to do this again - do you think using a Vaxis Atom 500 SDI would be a better starting point for gimbal use?

I am trying to work out if the 600 KV (with its 600ft range) would be preferable to the 500 SDI (500ft + same latency + smaller + lighter) + Tilta BP Battery Dummy + RS 2 Power Pass-through Plate?

1624328970.jpg

DB-BP-2LEmain_legacy2-2048x1154.jpg

TGA-PPK-Vbottom_legacy2-2048x1154.jpg


Thanks,
AJ

Björn Benckert said:
Lots of things that can improve performance on the RS2. We gone a bit nuts with the 3d printer lately. Made these bits and bobs, that makes huge difference.<snip>
Click to expand...
 
I've been underwhelmed by the Tilta Advanced Ring with RS2. After waiting for the thing for several months, it doesn't seem to communicate very well with the RS2's focus motor, and in the worst possible way, overshooting your mark when the connection is spotty. Also, the run/stop toggle when using my A7Siii is unreliable, though I haven't yet tried the run/stop on Komodo. Any tips would be awesome...I actually recently bought each a Nucleus Nano and a Nucleus M motor to play around with it. I like the ring, but the communication seems like junk IMO.
 
Antony Newman said:
Björn,

In your custom RS2 rig, you have a Vaxis Atom 600 KV, and modified the V-Mount to put in under the camera (better balance / increase rear clearance).

Question : If you were to do this again - do you think using a Vaxis Atom 500 SDI would be a better starting point for gimbal use?

I am trying to work out if the 600 KV (with its 600ft range) would be preferable to the 500 SDI (500ft + same latency + smaller + lighter) + Tilta BP Battery Dummy + RS 2 Power Pass-through Plate?

1624328970.jpg

DB-BP-2LEmain_legacy2-2048x1154.jpg

TGA-PPK-Vbottom_legacy2-2048x1154.jpg


Thanks,
AJ
Click to expand...

To me the Vaxis 600 KV is best possible for Komodo when having our little mod for the V mount for it. As if not having a battery mount the lemo power cable will stick out just as much as the 600KV but it will not add any weight in the back. So the good thing with using the 600KV is that it makes the camera more back heavy without adding too much in the back / as little as when having only a lemo into the camera.

I got the 500SDI for my monstro. But yes the 600KV is really nice as it sits slim, ads a Vmount and also a usb and HDMI out. So to me it works better than anything else I tested with the tilta power plate, but that is when having one of our little power mods for it.
 
I also bought a Playstation controller for our R2S as that allows an operator to have one joystick for pan and one for tilt. Something that is quite needed if you want to do perfectly straight pans or tilts.
 
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