Komodo + DJI RS 2

[Ethan Byrne]

Appreciate the responses! Just saved me a few hundred in batteries.

 

[Stefan Pausa]

The Tilta Quick Release Baseplate Counterweight Adapter with the with the pocket v mount plate seems to work similar to that. i recently saw a picture but cant find it anymore. still waiting for my komodo & rs2, but i think im gonna try that out (after 3d printing a hopefully tiny conversion plate)

 

[Christoffer Glans]

The Tilta Quick Release Baseplate Counterweight Adapter with the with the pocket v mount plate seems to work similar to that. i recently saw a picture but cant find it anymore. still waiting for my komodo & rs2, but i think im gonna try that out (after 3d printing a hopefully tiny conversion plate)

Is there a counterweight built into the adapter plate?

 

[Stefan Pausa]

Is there a counterweight built into the adapter plate?

im not sure if theres enough space on there, but wont be vmount itself be hefty counterweight?

 

[Christoffer Glans]

A reminder that I hope Red is looking into the Komodo Link Adapter to output video directly or work with the Raven-Eye in some way. It would be fantastic if we could ditch a SDI to HDMI converter and just plug the USB-C directly into the Raven Eye.

 

[Christoffer Glans]

So, finally got my RS2 after months of backorder.

Things I've noticed, the focus motor is enough to pull my CN-Es so that's good, but at the same time I've noticed that the motor is pushing the entire camera and it's very visible when looking at the footage. Doesn't matter if it's the heavier CN-Es or still lenses with a gear adapter, it moves the entire camera on its single screw mount. Nothing of this has to do with the RF mount and adapter being "flimsy", it's the entire thing moving, camera and lens.

Will the Tilta Extended Quick Release Baseplate fix this problem? Since it uses the two screw holes on the Komodo instead of just a single one? How will I be able to use the 12mm rod for the focus motor with this adapter when the extended part makes it impossible to mount the rod system?

Are there any additional stabilization arms to negate walking movements? Like side handles that have their own stabilization working? That way, we don't need the whole Float system to be able to get super smooth walking, just have that motion negated by the side handles being stabilized as well. I'm certain I've seen something like this for another gimbal, but are there anything like this for the RS2? Hopefully with electronics working as well. The Dual Handle Power Supply Bracket by Tilta works like this, but it doesn't have any stabilization and I don't think you can control focus with that on.

 

[Carlo De Agostini]

Hi, I have the Canon Cine primes and I'm able to balance them up to 50mm using 2 Blueshape 955 batteries and the small rig counter balance:
https://www.smallrig.com/smallrig-c...-rs-2-rsc-2-selected-zhiyun-gimbals-3125.html

I had to mount the blackmagic SDI to HDMI adapter to the bottom of the batteries so it doesn't touch the arm of the gimbal, but it's ugly. I mean it's super handy and works well, but it's really really close to touch the back.

I have the manfrotto plate as well, super handy and more solid, but the asset is exactly the same, with the same space between the back of the camera and the gimbal.
https://www.smallrig.com/smallrig-m...e-for-dji-rs-2-rsc-2-ronin-s-gimbal-3158.html

 

[Christoffer Glans]

Hi, I have the Canon Cine primes and I'm able to balance them up to 50mm using 2 Blueshape 955 batteries and the small rig counter balance:
https://www.smallrig.com/smallrig-c...-rs-2-rsc-2-selected-zhiyun-gimbals-3125.html

I had to mount the blackmagic SDI to HDMI adapter to the bottom of the batteries so it doesn't touch the arm of the gimbal, but it's ugly. I mean it's super handy and works well, but it's really really close to touch the back.

I have the manfrotto plate as well, super handy and more solid, but the asset is exactly the same, with the same space between the back of the camera and the gimbal.
https://www.smallrig.com/smallrig-m...e-for-dji-rs-2-rsc-2-ronin-s-gimbal-3158.html

But the Manfrotto plate means no quick release is possible? However, it might be good if the plate works on Manfrotto tripods and handheld rigs, that way it can stay built through changes in setups. It would also be nice if there was a way to use the focus motor with DJI's follow focus system, but instead, be able to use the motor even when it's not attached to the gimbal. There's no transmission system for it outside of the gimbal so I'm not sure how this can be done though.

 

[Carlo De Agostini]

Hi, as far as I know the "brain" of the DJI focus is the ronin, so it doesn't work unless it's attached to it.
The manfrotto plate means no quick release, but it's very quick to slide off the ronin, and as you said it's compatible with many big tripods. It's also more stable due to the double screws.
I'm curious about the Tilta Extended Quick Release Baseplate, since the camera is higher it can be lowered in the gimbal, so it might be able to gain some millimeters and not touch the gimbal going from regular to briefcase

 

[Adam Pavelka]

I was trying to figure out the best setup (available at the moment) and Im really digging into using cellphone instead of my Smallhd - which means converter
The blackmagic converter is ugly thing and it drives me nuts, but yeasterday, when I was first testing the whole setup, I was super sad about how bulky it was with monitor, external bebob baterry etc.
Maybe good solution is to buy Tilta Extended Ring and make the RS2 more of Ronin M on Steroids with plenty of space for accessories.
Also as you discussed here - the different plate I really dont believe to one screw setup here.

https://vimeo.com/516114319/97d0b08ea4

 

[Christoffer Glans]

I was trying to figure out the best setup (available at the moment) and Im really digging into using cellphone instead of my Smallhd - which means converter
The blackmagic converter is ugly thing and it drives me nuts, but yeasterday, when I was first testing the whole setup, I was super sad about how bulky it was with monitor, external bebob baterry etc.
Maybe good solution is to buy Tilta Extended Ring and make the RS2 more of Ronin M on Steroids with plenty of space for accessories.
Also as you discussed here - the different plate I really dont believe to one screw setup here.

https://vimeo.com/516114319/97d0b08ea4

The problem is the weight. Without anything to support it, it will be very hard to actually work long days with it. Keeping weight down is a priority so that rig seems pretty hard to work with? I rather go with BP batteries. But I also just wished there was some good stabilized side handles for it that works with the electronics.

 

[Christoffer Glans]

Looking for something like this that works with the RS2. Hopefully so it's possible to use the electronic handle on it as well.

However, this one, in particular, is not good. It's low quality and introduces a bounce movement instead of helping. But read that there are some with higher quality and hydraulic system together with the springs, but I've seen so little about these kinds of handles, so there's not a lot of info. It also needs to be as low in weight as possible.

Does anyone have any experience with these?

 

[Christopher A. Bell]

To me, adding all this “stuff” just kind of defeats the purpose of the small and lightweight systems(because it doesn’t take much before they become unwieldy and too heavy for all but the very briefest of uses). The little trick I saw several years ago to help mitigate the up & down bounce on one-handed gimbals was to actually hold the handle at an angle instead of straight up & down.

 

[Christoffer Glans]

To me, adding all this “stuff” just kind of defeats the purpose of the small and lightweight systems(because it doesn’t take much before they become unwieldy and too heavy for all but the very briefest of uses). The little trick I saw several years ago to help mitigate the up & down bounce on one-handed gimbals was to actually hold the handle at an angle instead of straight up & down.

But it still works better with Komodo compared to other heavier systems. And the side handles makes it more manageable compared to just holding the center which I find to be a really weird way to handle the camera in comparison. With an added 4 axis stabilization, it would enable shots that usually are made for steadicam systems and if it's too heavy, I could just remove the handles for other shots.

 

[Björn Benckert]

But it still works better with Komodo compared to other heavier systems. And the side handles makes it more manageable compared to just holding the center which I find to be a really weird way to handle the camera in comparison. With an added 4 axis stabilization, it would enable shots that usually are made for steadicam systems and if it's too heavy, I could just remove the handles for other shots.

I had such handles for small gimbals... my tip is to test them before you buy. the short swing they have and only on one axis and with no dampner. To my experience there is a reason why DJI does not have spring loaded arms in the ronin 2 and such gimbals. So yes got rid of them.

Alos just got rid of our armour man and ronin kit and unstead ordered a tilta float to go with the RS2 combo. As I see it the float steady cam kind of mast and long spring arm the way to go to dampen laterial movements.

Also what you get in float kit is quite an impressive load of stuff. The lemo powered gimbal base, control unit and power bank etc. All stuff that can be used in a lot more ways than just a steady cam. So even if its a bit more costly than other gimbal suports, it's also brings so much more to the table.

 

[Paul Kalbach]

Does anybody know whether the DJI 3D Focus system will work with the Tilta Nano motor, instead of the DJI focus motor that came with the RS2 Pro Bundle? Or if not the 3D sensor, than possibly directly from the focus wheel on the RS2? Just a different USB connector. The 12mm rod support is very limiting in how the setup is configured. Can't reach the focus gear on some lenses because of how the rod mounts. What the hell were they thinking by going with a 12mm rod instead of a 15mm rod?

 

[Christopher A. Bell]

The 12mm rod is really stupid.

I think you can only use their components. But that motor is pretty strong. It seems to have more than enough power on my Canon CN-E’s, when I’ve tested them. I actually wish you could adjust the torque, so you could dial it back. But that doesn’t really help you if you’re trying to rig it out on a longer 15mm rod. Does anyone make longer 12mm rods?

 

[Christoffer Glans]

The 12mm rod is really stupid.

I think you can only use their components. But that motor is pretty strong. It seems to have more than enough power on my Canon CN-E’s, when I’ve tested them. I actually wish you could adjust the torque, so you could dial it back. But that doesn’t really help you if you’re trying to rig it out on a longer 15mm rod. Does anyone make longer 12mm rods?

I'm surprised that it has that much torque. Isn't it powered by a 5v feed through the USB-C? If that is the case, then why do other brands claim their motors cannot operate without 12v?

 

[George Nathanson]

The 12mm rod is really stupid.

I think you can only use their components. But that motor is pretty strong. It seems to have more than enough power on my Canon CN-E’s, when I’ve tested them. I actually wish you could adjust the torque, so you could dial it back. But that doesn’t really help you if you’re trying to rig it out on a longer 15mm rod. Does anyone make longer 12mm rods?

Nope... you have to pretty much make your own. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V4N884Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Cuts easily with Dremel or hacksaw. But if your going over 10" you should look at aluminum tube instead. Also have been able to make this work:

its poly cable wrap (the spiral kind) 10mm+14mm and I can use 12mm rods in 15mm clamps

 

[Björn Benckert]

Lots of things that can improve performance on the RS2. We gone a bit nuts with the 3d printer lately. Made these bits and bobs, that makes huge difference.

new dovetail that is low profile, low weight an offset the camera 35mm to the pasenger side, which allows for bigger heavier setups without having to add roll counter weights. Simply put the camera is placed way to high and way to far to the driver side with the original dove tail that also does not have proper mounting points for counter weights. You want to be able to put your counter weights as far back and down as possible without hitting the roll motor. So preferably you want the weights placed as shown in this video... now here is a small lens in use but a big heavy lens works very well.

Then we also moved power out of the gimbal. Simply it flies way better this way. also the power port on the Komodo is not so well placed, a lemo connector sticks out right where you don't want it, even if you use an angled connector the way we made it we fit the Vaxis Atom and we get Dtap or 2pin lemo out on board, still it does not make the camera longer than if we only had a angled power lemo in the camera. And this way we can fly with any focus motor on board and we can choose to power with Dtap or 2pin lemo. The V power plate we made has 2x 2pin female lemo or 2pin female lemo and female Dtap.

Then we made another V power mount thingy that mounts to the Dji arm. Where a V-lock battery can be mounted and it has, Dtap out, 2pin lemo out and usb out. The usb is nice as it can charge the phone. Kind of needed to have power for the phone if shooting for long days. It can also charge the actual gimbal battery as well so simply all that needs to be swapped power vice during a shooting day is Vlocks. Hate to fiddle with multiple chargers, batteries etc.

https://vimeo.com/528074492

Untitled by Björn Benckert, on Flickr

Then we also did these little biscuits. Good to have when you want to add power to the vaxis or what ever Vlock Male connector without adding the weight of a battery and also stay slim. It was the iteration before we removed the Vlock back all together from the vaxis. But its still a good solution when not wanting to fiddle with the screws for the vaxis backplate.

PastedGraphic-9 2 by Björn Benckert, on Flickr

Then I did some of these, lightweight mounts for 15 and 12mm rods. it slim enough to sit on the revolva on the passenger. side with the camera moved over. So all weight is to the right. Which is good, it makes it possible to push together on the tilt axis and makes the gimbal more rigid so it holds together further when calibrating big setups.

Untitled by Björn Benckert, on Flickr

Another cookie lakrits mint...

Untitled by Björn Benckert, on Flickr

Dove tail from underneath.

Untitled by Björn Benckert, on Flickr

Also here not the best picture but as the Dji focus can not run lenses with traveling focus gears we made a gearbox thingy with a wide gear so we can fly really fat lenses. It's up there in the corner.

Untitled by Björn Benckert, on Flickr

And here is a picture of the 2pin lemo Dtap V power plate. Where the camera and vaxis is feed with a single Dtap. Quite nice to actually have such setup for hand held. Camera gets super small and I can have a small Vlock in my pocket and it's nice to have the camera with a nice round ass.

Untitled by Björn Benckert, on Flickr

next we are getting some flushed antennas for the vaxis as those are what hits the gimbal first when tilting huge setups, getting low profile antennas lets us move the camera at least like 10-15mm further back which is huge.

This was went into the oven during the weekend takes about 130 hours to print a whole kit with side handle phone mount and the whole enchilada

Untitled by Björn Benckert, on Flickr