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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

IBC - Motion Mount ready to ship...

You may also be seeing some sharpening due to the polarizing effect of the motion mount.


It's possible that Red is doing extra sharpening when a MM is used. This would be similar to how they are normalizing the color when MM is between the sensor and lens. This is all transparent ( pun intended ) to the user and is picked up from the metadata in the r3d file. What color is MM when you look through it at a white wall ? Greenish ?

If someone sends me a couple of r3d files : one shot with and one shot without MM of same scene, I can tell what exactly is happening.
 
I am not saying this is due to the motion mount, just that I have never seen this until I put the mount on. It could be a weird setting, a bug, anything.

So the artifacts you're seeing are actually something that can happen under certain shooting conditions when using a linear polarizer on all camera systems that have an OLPF. The linear polarization bypasses a single layer of the OLPF birefringent material, which in turn causes aliasing protection to be removed along one axis. Hence the color aliasing you're seeing.

Where I see it in my tests the most is focusing on high frequency detail past 20 feet in things like straight up and down or diagonal objects with minimal spacing between tonal detail.
 
Hello,

Can someone tell us what technology is involved in the motion mount? Simply put, how does it work?

Can someone tell me if strob light from nightclub don't cause any rolling and split image artefact with the motion mount?

Thanks

Pat
 
So the artifacts you're seeing are actually something that can happen under certain shooting conditions when using a linear polarizer on all camera systems that have an OLPF. The linear polarization bypasses a single layer of the OLPF birefringent material, which in turn causes aliasing protection to be removed along one axis. Hence the color aliasing you're seeing.

Where I see it in my tests the most is focusing on high frequency detail past 20 feet in things like straight up and down or diagonal objects with minimal spacing between tonal detail.

Thats interesting and impressive you know that much about OLPF tech. I wish I knew half as much as you do. As I stated in an earlier post, the aliasing disappears or is greatly diminished when processed through RCX so it's really not an issue. On a different note, I found out today the hard way that images shot on a camera with a motion mount don't play well with older builds of RCX.
 
Thats interesting and impressive you know that much about OLPF tech. I wish I knew half as much as you do. As I stated in an earlier post, the aliasing disappears or is greatly diminished when processed through RCX so it's really not an issue. On a different note, I found out today the hard way that images shot on a camera with a motion mount don't play well with older builds of RCX.

I've been on a weird side of the fence for a few camera and sensor designs over the years. Had to learn fast.

The good news is it can be processed out most of the time if it appears, but it's something to be aware of for sure. One thing that is interesting is each lens behaves differently based on how light exits the lens, travels through the Motion Mount, and eventually hits the OLPF then sensor.


Can someone tell us what technology is involved in the motion mount? Simply put, how does it work?

Can someone tell me if strob light from nightclub don't cause any rolling and split image artefact with the motion mount?

Voodoo.

Seriously though. It's essentially an electronic liquid crystal shutter that changes the shape of the exposure window through varied modulation patterns. By doing so you can eliminate temporal aliasing effects such as rolling shutter and partially exposed strobe frames.

Additionally the Motion Mount has a couple other things going on. When attached you'll always have a linear polarizer in front of your camera. Additionally the Motion Mount has a built in IR Cut Filter. There's also some fancy things going on in there in regards to the color that is captured at various levels of electronic neutral density.

If you use the Motion Mount within the "strobe safe" shutter angles you can indeed eliminate the half exposed strobe effect from night clubs, flashes, and Zeus.
 
that would be pretty cool.....

curious if it would be possible
 
The artifacts that you can get when shooting wide open with a lot of ND is that relative to the lens itself or specifically lenses that can go to say t1.4? What I mean is do you get the same effects on a lens that can only go to T1.4 or is it about just being wide open (T1.4, 2.9, 3.5....) in general
 
@Martin: this one from PH should go in the best reduser quotes:
If you use the Motion Mount within the "strobe safe" shutter angles you can indeed eliminate the half exposed strobe effect from night clubs, flashes, and Zeus.
 
@Martin: this one from PH should go in the best reduser quotes:
If you use the Motion Mount within the "strobe safe" shutter angles you can indeed eliminate the half exposed strobe effect from night clubs, flashes, and Zeus.

Seconded.
 
Glad to say l picked up my Canon Motion Mount today from RED Europe, many thanks to Sam for his help.

I will start tests next week and let you know my thoughts.

Apart from the motion mount looking really cool, l can't wait to put it through its paces and ditching ND filters.
 
Does anyone know if the motion mount will work with the Scheider 2x and 1.4x extenders ? [the schneider extenders go a bit back, kind of like the RPP 18mm which will not work the the motion mount]

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/992442-REG/schneider_0xm_352l_00_2_0x_century_pl_to.html
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...er_0xd_14pl_00_century_1_4x_focal_length.html

I am looking to get a extender but want it to work with the motion mount.

I can find out next week for you with a real answer, but I've used these over the years and think they will both work fine. I'm also curious on this one though.
 
I can find out next week for you with a real answer, but I've used these over the years and think they will both work fine. I'm also curious on this one though.
Awesome, thanks Phil. I keep debating the new anamorphics, and what I'm pondering is just getting one (like a 40mm), then putting the 2x extender on that. I would have the ND set at 2 stops with the motion mount for the 40, then flip it to zero stops when i go 80mm (40mm with the 2x extender). Kind of a "low" budget yet high end look approach. With my current monochrome, i run 90% of the time with ND filters on, so I'm figuring more of the same with the dragon.
 
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