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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

HotLink or Redlink Bridge

Robert Hofmeyr

Robert Hofmeyr

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I’ve pre-ordered the Offhollywood Hotlink, but I’m now wondering if I perhaps should have gone with the Redlink Bridge. They cost much the same. Hotlink: $450, Bridge: $395. The Hotlink is lighter and uses much less power. The Bridge can also be used with Red’s T.H.C. The Hotlink requires 2 cables and uses the CNTRL port, whereas the Bridge is a module.


Obviously, the biggest issue with the current Bridge is that it’s an end module, so it blocks the A-mount on the back of the camera. I’m sure Red will release an updated version later, but I’d rather not wait.


I was thinking about buying a Redlink Bridge, taking it apart and cramming the innards into an Adapter Module I have lying around, but I’m not sure if that is possible (or wise).


Does anyone have any further thoughts or additional pros and cons? In particular, I’d be interested to hear from those of you using the Redlink Bridge. Any issues? How’s the range?


Thanks,
Rob
 
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the HOTLink uses the CTRL port not the GIG-E

so it means the GIG-E is still free for other uses if needed but also means you won't be able to plug the WMD into the camera at the same time to take control of PL glass.

Mark will certainly be making more modules with other features but the main advantage of the first HOTLink model is the size and flexibility to let everyone use their REDVolt XL, VLock or Gold mount batteries without changing their setup to fit the REDLink Bridge...

REDLink Bridge is sold at a cool price because it does not include all the modularity bits and cables a +1 module has to carry, and as such was always advertised as a developer kit by RED... when coding I use my camera on AC power anyway (and joyfully cram hours on my camera meter too...)

That still didn't stop the brave and crazy ones to start using it everywhere with the beta firmware to control cameras on set via SH REDVolts or VLocks on rails or on a battery belt clip :-)

more options is good, just choose your weapon...

facebook link


10676356_613087665469290_1125895114905076502_n.jpg
 
Does anyone know the weight difference? This will be on a Movi, on our HL drone.

Also does Fool control connect easier than the redmote did? As in, If I fly the drone away out of range then back, will I have to manually stop recording, or do you think it will reconnect easily enough to not waste time?
 
Chris Jordan said:
Does anyone know the weight difference? This will be on a Movi, on our HL drone.

Also does Fool control connect easier than the redmote did? As in, If I fly the drone away out of range then back, will I have to manually stop recording, or do you think it will reconnect easily enough to not waste time?
Click to expand...

I use a MoVI/Epic and Hotlink all the time and is my go-to setup.

Also does Fool control connect easier than the redmote did? As in, If I fly the drone away out of range then back, will I have to manually stop recording, or do you think it will reconnect easily enough to not waste time?[/QUOTE]

Hotlink no question. The hotlink is definitely lighter than the redbridge. With gimbal work especially, that added thickness the redbridge adds just makes it more difficult for camera tilts. You can power the hotlink off of D-Tap or even a Lipo (which is how I power it - lasts ALL day). Lighter the better for gimbal work.

Foolcontrol is an amazing app. Once you connect your phone to the hotlink wifi, fool control automatically connects once the app is launched. If your phone screen shuts off...it automatically reconnects with the camera, making setting changes a breeze. If you're flying, you could push record, fly away, then it will take a few seconds for your phone to find the wifi, connect, then you're good to go.

I've only noticed one bug with the app...when the camera goes into power save mode and fool control is launched, it will actually change the FPS on the camera to like 12 fps and you no longer have control over the camera. So you have to go to the camera head, get it out of power save by hitting any button, then you're good to go again. Not a big deal, just turn off power save on the camera. :-)
 
Chris McKechnie said:
I use a MoVI/Epic and Hotlink all the time and is my go-to setup.

I've only noticed one bug with the app...when the camera goes into power save mode and fool control is launched, it will actually change the FPS on the camera to like 12 fps and you no longer have control over the camera. So you have to go to the camera head, get it out of power save by hitting any button, then you're good to go again. Not a big deal, just turn off power save on the camera. :-)
Click to expand...

Hi Chris... I'm on BSC show tomorrow but will look into it first thing next week see if I can reproduce the bug and fix it..

I do not use auto power save on my camera so bever bumped into it... Manual sleep and wake up via the app does seem to work fine tho for me. Did you try to use the WAKE button in foolcontrol power menu (lower right on main screen where you can shutdown the cam)

Thanks for the report and feel free to email me more details...
 
Redlink works fine , battery issue is easily solved and no more cabling.

ps. Those asking if either wifi option is better than a redmote, no decision wifi leaves redmote for dead.
 
It is possible and works well. The only problem is finding a portable, easy to power from camera GIG-E router.

All the small ones are only 10/100 as they are often made for residential use and since wifi cannot reach GIG-E speed...

And altho the foolcontrol bandwith is very small, sadly the ethernet interface on camera requires GIG-E on the other end.
 
I too went with the Redlink cause it has no cables AND I would use it while using Redvolts say on a Ronin. Guess I just rather have less cables and a clean setup and save the extra cost. I also don't have anywhere to mount the hotlink since I don't put on any plates/cage.

If you don't mind having lots of stuff connected on the camera or use V-mount/AB batteries as your main power source, I think the hotlink is the better choice. Redlink is good if you don't need another module at the back.
 
Wil - you can mount the HOTLINK directly to the top of the camera in front of the cooling fan - it will attach to the ¼-20 taps on the front edge of the camera right above the lens mount - you don't need any plates, etc...

Jarek - the current REDLINK was meant for developers to give them head-start on developing apps and solutions for the new protocol. RED has clearly mentioned that more modules and accessories with the REDLINK protocol would be released later on...

:sifone: Peter
 
Good point Peter but that's where I put the 5" Touch monitor. Not a fan of putting the monitor on arms.
 
Wil Wong said:
Good point Peter but that's where I put the 5" Touch monitor. Not a fan of putting the monitor on arms.
Click to expand...

On super compact setup you can always velcro the hotlink on the side of your camera as it very small or fix it on a tactical Z even if you have no top plate or anything...
 
You can use the RedLink with an on camera battery solution -

Here is ours

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5wAJDk8.jpg



No issues with signal when we tested the signal range, you still have the ability to mount what ever you want as the mounting screw positions are still there.

It is also low cost and if you dont want your ports by the Hotlink taken up (+ spending $50) it opens up your ports.

Of course if you have other modules on the back such as the I/O but for those who just need battery solutions, I have found this to be ideal.


Jonny


EDIT - Also I was talking to Mikael at BSC and he had a theroy that they didnt add the moudule adapter on the back because of power passing thorugh the unit may have cost more or was a bit tricky with this sepcific unit (additionally this is only beta and many never get a full release).
 
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I believe someone had also converted the RedLink into a adapter module...or at least I think they tried to. Can't remember if they were successful.
 
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