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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Group Buy: Budget CRI 95 LED Strip Lights

Joachim Hoge said:
Again, thanks for posting and setting up the group buy. I'm doing a few short films after Easter and these lights will be perfect.
Do you use the Seconic to dial in the temprature?
Click to expand...

Yeah, I used the Sekonic meter. You probably could use the auto white balance feature on an Epic/Scarlet if you don't have a spectrometer.
 
My workstation crashed yesterday. Video card went down. I'll have a replacement card tomorrow and I'll finish up sorting out these last few unpaid orders.

I've just been told the guts (hardware/programming tweaks) for the last prototype are done and they are waiting on the new molds to be finished. They used dip switches for most of the settings in the first prototype and that's far from ideal. I insisted they use normal switches to make it more production ready for the final version. That is causing a small delay, but it's well worth the it.
 
Here's a few projects I've been working on in between shows.


Using LiteGear's DMX 4 channel dimmer I was able to make a standalone wireless DMX dimmer with V-mount plate.
Each channel can supply up to 4amps (~8' of LED)

9ieXpe2l.jpg


Inside is the DMX dimmer.
The little white thing is a 12V->5V step down transformer to power the wireless DMX receiver so I wouldn't need 2 power sources. Everything is just stuck into place with velcro. So the V-Mount plate that is inside actually just comes out of the case and gets stuck to the back of the case when in use. Or you can use a different power source and just leave the plate inside, out of the way. The DMX dimmer takes ethernet cable. So I have a little ethernet->3 Pin adapter to go into the wireless receiver. I also have a ethernet cable that goes out of the case, incase I don't want to use the wireless and want to go hardwired.

yOjBQwBl.jpg


This both cases.

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This is the Pocket Console. What's not pictured is a 9V->5V step down transformer. To power the transmitter.

Spn1mvXl.jpg



Eventually I want to get a stronger DMX transmitter/Receiver. This one works, but it was the cheapest I could find and obviously you get what you pay for.





The other project that I did, not sure if I posted yet. Is the bigger Kino-like LED.

FVA3AiZl.jpg


I made it like the smaller one, so that you can remove the section with the LEDs from the fixture(Shell) incase you need something extremely lightweight and compact. For now it's just on the by velcro, but I'm going to use rivets to hold the V-Mount plate into place. Even though the velcro holds. But I'm sure it's because the velcro is new.

7h99jf5l.jpg


Since I didn't want to have to make a 5-9 wire headcable. I made it so you can kill individual rows of 2. like a short 4 Kino by simply disconnecting sections.

BkusfCSl.jpg


This is hopefully a temp thing. But it works. I had a few baby plates laying around. Slapped some velcro on the plate and stuck it to the fixture. The Baby plate weighs almost as much as the whole fixture!

cIzOO3sl.jpg


Here's the fixture taped to a window. We didn't have access to the neighbouring yard.

Nbf5UB0l.jpg




Here's some stuff in play.

Interior SUV (Level's aren't set)

gap0gUvl.jpg


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Poor picture, but you can see how you can easily hide the wires in the trim/cracks of a vehicle.

ECpnLVWl.jpg


Interior Police car.

ph8JVpWl.jpg


Hootsuite Video. To get a little extra wrap/shape we just stuck some LEDs to the wall with 2 layers of diffusion.

yWEMcXpl.jpg
 
Profoundly awesome post there Corey! Thanks.

Gee.... can you make me some of those?

Also, do they make aluminum Baby Plates?
 
Wow. Excellent stuff Corey thanks so much for sharing. How long are the strips on your bigger "Kino" 2-3 ft? What type of splitters/extensions are you using, what's the highest Amp ratings you've found as far as splitters/extensions?

Thanks
 
Martin Stevens said:
Also, do they make aluminum Baby Plates?
Click to expand...

I'm sure they do, but the weight of the baby plate isn't the issue. Since the actual plate goes directly into the grip head. I just wanted something that is removable. The ideal thing would be a kino mating and mounting plate. but that would cost more than double the cost of building the fixture. So I'm looking at something similar to a old school foamcore holder. that is similar to the mounting plate of a kino.

Jamon Lewis said:
Wow. Excellent stuff Corey thanks so much for sharing. How long are the strips on your bigger "Kino" 2-3 ft? What type of splitters/extensions are you using, what's the highest Amp ratings you've found as far as splitters/extensions?

Thanks
Click to expand...

The strips are 16" each. At this point I'm just using some splitters I had laying around from using LiteStix. I plan on making a beefier splitter eventually. I'm not sure what these ones are rated for, I didn't really want to cut it up to see what gauge wire is in it. But I do plan to make some beefier ones once my batch of barrels and connectors come in the mail.
 
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I needed a portable china ball the other day and quickly made this:

K9b4fJC.jpg


1 part Lantern Lock rig, 1 part plastic water bottle, and a little tape. Worked fantastic!
 
Hello... I'm super late to this party but was wondering if these lights are still available to order on this group buy? If so, I'll take 2 rolls plus controllers...
Thank you!
 
Corey Jacques said:
The other project that I did, not sure if I posted yet. Is the bigger Kino-like LED.

FVA3AiZl.jpg
Click to expand...

Hi Corey.
Where did you found that shell. Does the flagging sides keep they're position like a Kino?
Can you share a link?
Many thanks for all your contribuiton to the thread
 
A quick update on the status of things:

I am splitting up the last of the unpaid invoices right now and contacting the people that are interested in the lights.

We are waiting on the molds to be finished for the final prototype. There were a couple fixes that needed to be made before I would approve them. The delay additional delay is now because I also insisted they use normal switches instead of dip switches. This requires a new PCB layout and case mold to be made, but it's worth the delay because using tiny dip switches to change settings got old quick when dealing with the prototype. The PCB is done. The mold is almost done.

As soon as the controllers ship I am flying back to the US to rush everything out to you guys. There won't be delays like this when we do the second batch.
 
Brandon J.F. said:
A quick update on the status of things:

I am splitting up the last of the unpaid invoices right now and contacting the people that are interested in the lights.

We are waiting on the molds to be finished for the final prototype. There were a couple fixes that needed to be made before I would approve them. The delay additional delay is now because I also insisted they use normal switches instead of dip switches. This requires a new PCB layout and case mold to be made, but it's worth the delay because using tiny dip switches to change settings got old quick when dealing with the prototype. The PCB is done. The mold is almost done.

As soon as the controllers ship I am flying back to the US to rush everything out to you guys. There won't be delays like this when we do the second batch.
Click to expand...

Great news Brandon. Also, normal switches are very, very much preferred.
 
Brandon J.F. said:
A quick update on the status of things:

I am splitting up the last of the unpaid invoices right now and contacting the people that are interested in the lights.

We are waiting on the molds to be finished for the final prototype. There were a couple fixes that needed to be made before I would approve them. The delay additional delay is now because I also insisted they use normal switches instead of dip switches. This requires a new PCB layout and case mold to be made, but it's worth the delay because using tiny dip switches to change settings got old quick when dealing with the prototype. The PCB is done. The mold is almost done.

As soon as the controllers ship I am flying back to the US to rush everything out to you guys. There won't be delays like this when we do the second batch.
Click to expand...

Hi Brandon, If there's more left from those who withdraw, I'll take 2 more
 
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