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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Got weapon flipped handle forward.

Maybe a spacing module, giving an extra 1.5-2" with a cheeseplate surface would solve the top handle compatibility issue. Since it would sit behind the camera, it would have to have pass through intelligence.

Red should look into it. Seems like it would be a cheap fix, probably at around $500 or something like that.
 
Why???? You maimed it
 
This is awsome!

Not only is the new handle a little hidden compartment. I just found out that with a little bit of brute force you can actually unscrew it from the "button / front / mount part" which means the handle can easily be replaced by stuff from third party or RED if they decide to do so.

The rubber handle is basically a metal tube seated with threads and "lockit". So it would be very easy for somebody to make anything like a metal handle with bolt holes, top 19mm rod mount etc or what ever wanted that could replace the current really nice, but not so multifunctional rubber handle.

This worries me a bit, nonetheless, it looks like a cool way to upgrade to a handle with mounting points
 
Posted this in another thread swell dont know how to link.

Any comments before "Stubby Handle " goes to the CNC mill...

4 sides all with 1/4 threded holes. in reds "4 holes" distance between the first and third. Center holes on each side does not only have 1/4 inch threads but also threads and square hole to screw on red or Arri rossettes.
The front bolt thing screws in where the rubber handed is normally seated. the nut around it is to allow for a perfectly levelled fixation. (adjust and tighten kind of thing) that will not come lose.

Basically the idea is that this little box shaped aluminum lump cheese plate will work as a handle when needed but also it allows for what ever you want to mount there. Monitor, Nato rails, rosettes, noga arms. EVF.... we will also mill a 19mm rod holder that screws on like a cross bar that a EVF can nicely spin around / mount on to. ).

So if wanted its possible to have lets say arri rosettes on the short sides and red rosettes on the flat sides or mix and have nato rails or just plain 1/4 holes. And it´s possible to spin and reseat it all in the front part of the start stop / red handle with any side facing up... or not have rosettes and have gator rails in any directions on 3 sides and mount things on that...

Also in the front it has two 3/8 (I think it´s called, the larger, not 1/4 inch holes) as well for stuff that does use such threads.

And the back rosette is clearing the Vlock battery.

Now its baby blue but inodized black when done.


And also I will mill stump handles. that uses the red handle minsus the tube inside the rubber shaft, and it´s shorter to clear the back and underneath the end cup it will also have a 1/4 threaded hole so a noga arm can be placed there...


Will send to the mill tomorrow so toss your crazy handle ideas and we might do that in the last iteration.

24147202744_d5c5453be6_o.jpg
[/url]IMG_0053 by Björn Benckert, on Flickr[/IMG]


And one frame without rosette...

24148652483_955ff5ec98_o.jpg
[/url]IMG_0055 by Björn Benckert, on Flickr[/IMG]
 
Will your adapter attach securely enough for everything that might be added onto it?

For example, I'd like to see a t-shaped handle running horizontal to the camera, but gripping it would almost always risk unscrewing it.

There are a couple of bolt-holes on the side of the handle that could be used to secure your attachment so it's absolutely unmovable, or would that be too complicated and un-necessary?



 
Will your adapter attach securely enough for everything that might be added onto it?

For example, I'd like to see a t-shaped handle running horizontal to the camera, but gripping it would almost always risk unscrewing it.

There are a couple of bolt-holes on the side of the handle that could be used to secure your attachment so it's absolutely unmovable, or would that be too complicated and un-necessary?




Was thinking of that as well but I think as you can basically screw anything onto it an use that as a wrench to tighten it to the front handle and the locking screw will be so wide in diameter i think it will be fairly easy to tighten it...so it does not come of without using a long wrench or leveler.

Then there is always locktight, is what is holding the handle from unscrewing on the original version and thst has not the friction ring and does not seam to come of too easy :)

But if it does not work such solution as you describe will, was thinking of it and also. shape the front of the lump around the handel snd fastening it with a fat bolt going all the way trough from the back... but then there can not be a rosette in the back.

And the idea with the locking ring in the fron is so you can adjust it to have any of the four sides facing up.
have nato rail on one side, rosettes on two and empty screw holes on the third or such.
 
Anyone know what is the standard center thread for arri rosette... is it 1/4 inch screws just like red? and id the four small screws the same?

dont have arri stuff in out office.
 
If the locking screw/nut had two flat sides you could literally use a spanner or wrench to tighten it right up if you wanted to.

Arri rosette has M6 internal thread according to this - https://wiki.apertus.org/index.php?title=Rosettes

The small attachment screws are M2 or M2.5 in a couple of examples I just saw.
 
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I'm going to just get the WC top plate and turn the handle facing forward and be done with it. Less hassle.
 
I'm going to just get the WC top plate and turn the handle facing forward and be done with it. Less hassle.


Not a bad solution but to me puting on a loaf of metal on the camera that is not easily removed goes abit against the whole lightweight carbon / magnesium small form factor thing.

want somthing that csn detatch and the top of camera is so small so with a handle and screen up there it get quite crowded.
 
If the locking screw/nut had two flat sides you could literally use a spanner or wrench to tighten it right up if you wanted to.

Arri rosette has M6 internal thread according to this - https://wiki.apertus.org/index.php?title=Rosettes

The small attachment screws are M2 or M2.5 in a couple of examples I just saw.

Any body knows if the small scew holes are layed out the same as red?
 
If the locking screw/nut had two flat sides you could literally use a spanner or wrench to tighten it right up if you wanted to.

Arri rosette has M6 internal thread according to this - https://wiki.apertus.org/index.php?title=Rosettes

The small attachment screws are M2 or M2.5 in a couple of examples I just saw.

Any body knows if the small scew holes are layed out the same as red?



And yes will make the lock nut so it´s possible to use a wrench on it.
 
Any body knows if the small scew holes are layed out the same as red?

The small screw-holes look to be placed the same distance from the edge of the rosettes, but if the RED rosette is 28mm diameter and the Arri one is 31.8mm, then no, the small screw-holes aren't laid out the same.

A diagram I'm looking at for an Arri-compatible rosette has the small screw-holes evenly spaced around a 1.250” Dia. Bolt Circle.
 
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The small screw-holes look to be placed the same distance from the edge of the rosettes, but if the RED rosette is 28mm diameter and the Arri one is 31.8mm, then no, the small screw-holes aren't laid out the same.

A diagram I'm looking at for an Arri-compatible rosette has the small screw-holes evenly spaced around a 1.250” Dia. Bolt Circle.

Yes got a Arri standard mount block now. And looked at their different rosettes, will do Red rosettes + 1/4 holes on the flat sides and do arri mount point +1/4 on the sides. And make it a bit thinner, (same as arri handle / blocks) to keep weight down. Then have the same spread of the holes as red has and make things like this to mount rods nato rails etc.
 

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If you put another rosette underneath the block, these RED handles might be able to clamp directly to it -

http://www.red.com/store/products/ball-socket-handle

And this one attached via an adapter to your block might even have enough height to clear V-Lock batteries - http://www.red.com/store/products/sliding-top-handle[/QUOTE


Yes the clutch ball handel on top if you want it. or sticking out on the side if preferred. wound need some custom long screws to reach trough.


Or dogbones http://www.red.com/store/products/dogbone-a-straight
to be able to balance and mount with normal 1/4 screws.

Or the nato rail handle on top of everything... Most has such already.
 
Thanks for the input guys, now I sent this drawing to our metal shop guy to get a sample IRL.

Made it:
Short enough to clear battery.
Easy to detach to loose weight.
No rubber grip, but good enough rounded edges to use it as a good handle. (It can have wide or slim surface facing down.)
Has red´s "4 holes distance" between the 1/4 inch holes, so monitor, nato rails and such screws fits fine.
Has a bunch of 3/8 threaded holes.
Has 2 mount points for RED rosettes. to mount RED dogbanes, handles etc.
Has 3 Arri standard mount points to use with those Arri buliding blocks, handles etc.
Will work nice with a old red one 19mm universal mount below or on top of it. (Those cost very little in the FS section or on eBay.)
Also with a nato on each side and two of those I think it will be bad ass / possible to get in good balance . http://www.red.com/store/products/gunner-handle-pack
Leaves the fans cleared.

Also small enough to fit a little screw on CNC´d Cedar wood thing on the botom side that the girl DP´s with sensitive fingers can use. :)

Flying to LA tonight for a shoot but hopefully this little bit of metal is laying in my reception when I get back home next week.

SkybridgeHandle by Björn Benckert, on Flickr
 
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