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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

FOOLCONTROL for Iphone @ IBC

Mark L. Pederson said:
Hey Nikhil -

Offhollywood's HOTLINK is WIFI only hardware that connects to CTRL port of the camera and uses rs232 to pass RCP commands to the camera.

RED's Redlink Bridge is WIFI AND RF radio for THC control. It attaches to the back of the camera and uses the pogo pins to communicate with the camera via UART. So ... no cables ... but it has to be attached on the back of the camera.

With the Offhollywood HOTLINK you can not use the current version of the THC Controller - which is RF only - but you can mount the HOTLINK anywhere on the camera.
Click to expand...

Thanks Mark! I can see that the Hotlink + FoolControl + a new THC Controller that is wifi + RF (whenever RED announces it), will be the hottest party in town.
 
So is the Redlink Bridge the most cost effective solution for Fool Control right now?

Redlink Bridge = $395

Hotlink = $449

I'm just wondering why people are choosing the Hotlink over the less expensive Redlink Bridge.
 
Carey Lee Coffey said:
So is the Redlink Bridge the most cost effective solution for Fool Control right now?

Redlink Bridge = $395

Hotlink = $449

I'm just wondering why people are choosing the Hotlink over the less expensive Redlink Bridge.
Click to expand...

It's completely obvious, because the hotlink doesn't eat up your battery plate. If the REDLINK bridge allowed pass through it'd be okay, almost like a module adapter. Instead it creates a situation where you can't mount your V or AB bricks. The Hotlink is smaller and works with practically any setup.
 
Carey Lee Coffey said:
So is the Redlink Bridge the most cost effective solution for Fool Control right now?

Redlink Bridge = $395

Hotlink = $449

I'm just wondering why people are choosing the Hotlink over the less expensive Redlink Bridge.
Click to expand...
The REDLink Bridge is primarily designed as a development tool, and has to be attached directly to the brain or a DSMC module. It can't be used with a rear mounted battery power plate of any kind (including RED). The Hotlink can be mounted anywhere and powered from D-Tap, +1 module, or elsewhere. It also can be used with any battery plate configuration.

EDIT: Damn, Isaac beat me, lol...
 
I am planning to use the Hotlink with my Letus Helix, I pretty much can't have anything on the back of the camera, including the Redlink. I hoping to use the hotlink with foolcontrol and Canon lenses to control focus along with a paralinx/cinemizer for wireless viewing all powered via USB and Mophie batts attached to the camera body. Has anyone tried this set up? are there any issues powering the Hotlink via USB?
 
Mark Andersen said:
I am planning to use the Hotlink with my Letus Helix, I pretty much can't have anything on the back of the camera, including the Redlink. I hoping to use the hotlink with foolcontrol and Canon lenses to control focus along with a paralinx/cinemizer for wireless viewing all powered via USB and Mophie batts attached to the camera body. Has anyone tried this set up? are there any issues powering the Hotlink via USB?
Click to expand...

FWIW, I have my REDlink mounted on my Scarlet for use on my Helix and it does beautifully. It's extremely light and doesn't add enough length to effect anything. Nothing against Hotlink but the REDlink works perfectly well.
 
Interesting, I don't doubt that is works it may prove to be a slicker set up in the end. It just seems the farther back I can mount my camera on the Helix plate the better, when oi had it forward with a battery on the back it put a lot of pressure on L shaped braket and rear motor. Not so much a weight issue, more of a camera mounted forward on the bracket issue. But hey, if it is working for you then it will probably work for me too. Now what are we gonna do with all those Redmotes

EDIT: I still like the Hotlink for times that I'm not on a gimble and need to use rear batteries. it just seems more versatile in the set ups.
 
Mark, I'm planning a similar setup except the camera, Hotlink, and Paralinx transmitter will all be powered with IDX E-7S using the Freefly mount with 2x D-taps. I will only use the Mophie type batts for the Paralinx receiver and cinemizer googles.

Mark Andersen said:
I am planning to use the Hotlink with my Letus Helix, I pretty much can't have anything on the back of the camera, including the Redlink. I hoping to use the hotlink with foolcontrol and Canon lenses to control focus along with a paralinx/cinemizer for wireless viewing all powered via USB and Mophie batts attached to the camera body. Has anyone tried this set up? are there any issues powering the Hotlink via USB?
Click to expand...
 
Mark Andersen said:
Interesting, I don't doubt that is works it may prove to be a slicker set up in the end. It just seems the farther back I can mount my camera on the Helix plate the better, when oi had it forward with a battery on the back it put a lot of pressure on L shaped braket and rear motor. Not so much a weight issue, more of a camera mounted forward on the bracket issue. But hey, if it is working for you then it will probably work for me too. Now what are we gonna do with all those Redmotes

EDIT: I still like the Hotlink for times that I'm not on a gimble and need to use rear batteries. it just seems more versatile in the set ups.
Click to expand...

Ha - as much as I like my REDmote (I am one of the few who seemed blessed with one that worked well), I think this app is a REDmote Killer.

The Hotlink looks great. I already own the REDlink and I just don't attach batteries to the back that much. If I didn't already own the REDlink, I'd probably buy Hotlink for versatility.
 
I use Redlink, my reasons for opting in with it are....

1) I hate spaghetti, so all I need IMO is another black box (regardless of size) with wires coming out/in taking up limited real estate on our noodle box sized cameras.

2) The Redlink when mounted takes up less room then that extraneous and annoying bit of kit called a module adaptor (never under stood it why it's needed ) .

3) I came up with a simple solution using a v mount back mounted behind the Redlink . Works out as roughly the same length as those who are using a module adapter + Red V mount module.

4) I seem to remember reading in a thread there could be upgrades happening with external control via the lemo jack mounted on the side. ...maybe someone can correct/inform me .

P.S just found Mikael's post no 176 on this thread clarifying this point.

P.S.S I can see attractions with Off hollywoods product with the ability to mount it anywhere and not necessarily on the camera, for better reception.
 
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Mike Garrick said:
I use Redlink, my reasons for opting in with it are....

1) I hate spaghetti, so all I need IMO is another black box (regardless of size) with wires coming out/in taking up limited real estate on our noodle box sized cameras.

2) The Redlink when mounted takes up less room then that extraneous and annoying bit of kit called a module adaptor (never under stood it why it's needed ) .

3) I came up with a simple solution using a v mount back mounted behind the Redlink . Works out as roughly the same length as those who are using a module adapter + Red V mount module.

4) I seem to remember reading in a thread there could be upgrades happening with external control via the lemo jack mounted on the side. ...maybe someone can correct/inform me .

P.S just found Mikael's post no 176 on this thread clarifying this point.

P.S.S I can see attractions with Off hollywoods product with the ability to mount it anywhere and not necessarily on the camera, for better reception.
Click to expand...

That's the answer I was looking for, thanks!
 
Mike Garrick said:
The Redlink when mounted takes up less room then that extraneous and annoying bit of kit called a module adaptor (never under stood it why it's needed ) .
Click to expand...

Mike, wait till the new module adaptor becomes redlink enabled ! ! ! ! ;)

Mike Garrick said:
I came up with a simple solution using a v mount back mounted behind the Redlink . Works out as roughly the same length as those who are using a module adapter + Red V mount module.
Click to expand...

Please could you share some pics? thanks!!!!!
 
I will be testing a GiG-E to Wifi bridge which is USB powered this week. iOS will take care of the adhoc network. Does anyone have experience setting up a network on iOS without a hacked device?
 
Robert Andriessen said:
I will be testing a GiG-E to Wifi bridge which is USB powered this week. iOS will take care of the adhoc network. Does anyone have experience setting up a network on iOS without a hacked device?
Click to expand...

Could you share which one? Thx Thommes
 
Went and got my redlink from the RED store NYC today, just got finished playing with it the foolcontrol, dope app, it definitely lives up to the hype. However I've tested it with my AF Sigma art lenses (for Nikon) & when I go to focus marks that I've set they are off, anybody else experiencing this?
 
Hello Jamon and thanks for the feedback.
I only tried with Nikons and Canons lenses myself so far but I think luigi from cine5K tried the sigmas but he probably had the canon version... Will try to ask him if he got good results and see if I can find those lenses around me to test it too...

Is the Nikon version of these lenses officially supported in the RED FW ?
 
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