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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

DSMC v5.2.28 Release Build

Yes. I shot in minus 18 recently.

Yes, the camera needs a lot more time to get to temperature. When we had the time (which was not often) we would re-black balance in the extreme cold after the camera had been on for a while.

I took to having the AC's power it at the beginning of the day and leaving it on all day.

Impressive. Camera kept working. MoVI M10 would not work in these temperatures at all.

Thanks Ben.


Minus 18 is very cold. I feel after minus 10 cameras and electronics in general start to behave a bit different.

This is good to know as most of my shooting this winter will be in sub 0 conditions. I won't have the luxury of AC power, so I will have to come up with a different strategy. I already do what David recommended (power up and then build the camera). I was also thinking of running those hot pocket hand warmers in my back pack.
 
I've been getting some really interesting blackshade results today on my Epic Dragon with this latest release firmware. Doing some testing before heading out on a really long and remote shoot, so these aren't real-world yet. That said...

I filled the calibration spots with my most common shutter speeds, all with the camera up to temp (65). BUT, I can sometimes switch between radically different shutter speeds (like 1/120 and 1/240) and, without switching calibration preset, my temp and exposures remain "green." What's up with that? I'm waiting for the camera to warn me that I need to switch to a different calibration preset but I get nothing. Normal? I can use a 1/120 calibration with a 1/240 exposure with no warning, but if I go to a 1/48 exposure I get a warning. What's the range and does it go both in the plus and minus directions?
 
Good questions Andy. I think of the various parameters like shutter angle, fps, sensor temp, etc as a matrix of interdependent variables that would create some sort of "factor" score if one knew all the specifics. My speculation is that in some cases just changing one parameter a relatively small amount stays within the "zone" a particular Cal map can handle, other changes go outside that envelope.

I've been experimenting with building a set of Cal maps to store in the 4 slots that cover enough of the possibilities I'm likely to use in typical shooting that at least one can be called up and used quickly when time is critical. Haven't been in enough different situations yet to say anything definitive, but so far I've been able to make the strategy work…

Cheers - #19
 
To be more specific, I am switching other parameters than just shutter speed. I'll go from 6k - 60fps - 1/120 - lowest RC (with the corresponding blackshade cal) to 4k - 120fps - 1/240 - lowest RC (with previous blackshade cal) and I won't get a warning. But if I go to 6k - 23.98fps - 1/48 - lowest RC I will get a warning.

Just thought I'd bring it up. Heading out into the field for a long shoot so it will be interesting to keep an eye on. I have the blackshades in there if I need them...
 
Agreed. We would normally only go down to minus 10 ish. But, that day was an exception. Lot's of other equipment failure, people not comfortable and we wrapped soon after and came back the next day and finished off in minus 8 to 10.
 
So I did the update and now it won't recognize my Nikkor 17-35 IF_ED. Doesn't even prompt to calibrate it. It will operate the iris, but no lens data. It sees my 80-200, asks to calibrate that. I had the 17-35 attached during the update, did I just fry that lens?

Also, after the update, I've noticed that If I do a black shade at the fastest shutter speed/smallest angle and then decrease shutter speed/increase angle, I'm getting less noise as shutter speed goes down, with no noticeable loss of image quality. I'm not sure if it's supposed to be like that. I've only gotten my Scarlet Dragon recently. I never tried this before, so I'm not sure what is happening...

Thanks!
 
Is there a reason that the Epic 5.2.28 firmware shows as "Locked" on the download site this morning (9/6/14)? Just back from two week trip and cannot download latest and greatest. Was able to get the Dragon firmware, but not the Epic Mysterium-X...
 
Is there a reason that the Epic 5.2.28 firmware shows as "Locked" on the download site this morning (9/6/14)? Just back from two week trip and cannot download latest and greatest. Was able to get the Dragon firmware, but not the Epic Mysterium-X...

Contact your BS rep to make sure they still have you as a registered owner of a Dragon as well as an MX.
 
Thanks Bob. That was a thought I had, registration issue. They had the wrong serial number for my Epic-M when it went in for the Dragon upgrade. Maybe my Epic-X is in LimboLand...
 
Hi Monday


My 17-35 2.8 isn't working too with the New firmware.


Anyone else having this issue?





So I did the update and now it won't recognize my Nikkor 17-35 IF_ED. Doesn't even prompt to calibrate it. It will operate the iris, but no lens data. It sees my 80-200, asks to calibrate that. I had the 17-35 attached during the update, did I just fry that lens?

Also, after the update, I've noticed that If I do a black shade at the fastest shutter speed/smallest angle and then decrease shutter speed/increase angle, I'm getting less noise as shutter speed goes down, with no noticeable loss of image quality. I'm not sure if it's supposed to be like that. I've only gotten my Scarlet Dragon recently. I never tried this before, so I'm not sure what is happening...

Thanks!
 
To be more specific, I am switching other parameters than just shutter speed. I'll go from 6k - 60fps - 1/120 - lowest RC (with the corresponding blackshade cal) to 4k - 120fps - 1/240 - lowest RC (with previous blackshade cal) and I won't get a warning. But if I go to 6k - 23.98fps - 1/48 - lowest RC I will get a warning.

Just thought I'd bring it up. Heading out into the field for a long shoot so it will be interesting to keep an eye on. I have the blackshades in there if I need them...

If your shutter angle us changing (degrees) then that is what could be prompting the warning. To check it read the degrees when you change shutter angle and see how wide a swing is in degrees (exposure time)

battistella
 
E Cal doesn't have anything to do with latitude. You should do a black shade when you change the shutter. Make sure you do this when the camera reaches operating temperature. You will get much cleaner blacks.

Not technically true. Blackshading crushes the blacks. The longer your exposure the brighter your black shade. The higher the noise removed gets, the more your bottom stops are crushed. If you used a 1/48th blackshade on a 1/24th exposure I would expect more dynamic range than a 1/24th exposure with a 1/24th blackshade.
 
This is not an issue in the soon to be released updated RedcineX Pro with some DEB improvements and tweaks Graeme has done. I cannot see a visual difference other than the red noise being gone.

Matt, I think Michael's example points to the fact, that from the camera manufacturer's point of view it is not possible to say, or in more formal terms, to define a priori what is noise (and what is not). Although this may sound bit philosophical, but an elementary example is, you may want to shoot (red) noise and show it on the screen. Say, think of some welding kind of stuff that created a lot of small reddish spots. Hence, Michael just points to the fact that the DEB should, as it is, be an option, and that in the end of the day it does not make sense to argue it should or can be employed in all cases.
 
After reading the awesome list of improvements I decided to update... Previously my Nikon 18-300 performed well, data was read and all was relatively good. Now, no data is read. I tried to re calibrate but it did nothing to resolve this... In particular I use the focus distance in my manual focusing, especially run and gun. Focal length too but not as critically.

I am using the red Nikon mount which also shows up in the menu as: unknown mount.

So why would it work before but now no longer?
 
Not technically true. Blackshading crushes the blacks. The longer your exposure the brighter your black shade. The higher the noise removed gets, the more your bottom stops are crushed. If you used a 1/48th blackshade on a 1/24th exposure I would expect more dynamic range than a 1/24th exposure with a 1/24th blackshade.

This makes sense. I mostly blackshade set at 47.95 time base at 360 degree shutter, and noise just hasn't been that much of a problem for me in low light. Some noise... yes, but not enough to be problematic.
 
After reading the awesome list of improvements I decided to update... Previously my Nikon 18-300 performed well, data was read and all was relatively good. Now, no data is read. I tried to re calibrate but it did nothing to resolve this... In particular I use the focus distance in my manual focusing, especially run and gun. Focal length too but not as critically.

I am using the red Nikon mount which also shows up in the menu as: unknown mount.

So why would it work before but now no longer?

I would suggest that yoou try the "Rediscover" function under the "Mantenance" menu. It used to be called "Rediscover Hardware".

Obviously if the camera is not recognizing the mount, it's not going to read the data from it. Gotta get it to see the mount. If "Rediscover" doesn't work, I'd re-install the firmware.
 
If you are experiencing an issue with your DSMC NIKON MOUNT and an electronically supported Nikon lens, please save a camera log file and submit a technical support request here so our RED SUPPORT team can assist you directly.

NICK
 
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