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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

DSMC is not going to happen...

Jiri,

My background is in shooting stills... for the past 20 years. I work with some of the best equipment available... 60 megapixel digital back mounted to either a technical camera or view camera (depending on the situation) and using the latest digital lenses from Schneider and Rodenstock. The first things I look at in a digital capture are the dynamic range, color fidelity and sharpness. Below is a quick test I did at the house to compare my medium format system to my Red One MX. These both look quite good. There is far more detail and sharpness in the image from my still camera, but look at the dynamic range in the Red One still.... most notably the hilight detail. This is HUGE for me as I'm often struggling to maintain detail in window views. I've had my Epic a few weeks now, and while I haven't done any side by side tests, it's range feels even more impressive. Once my Cannon mount arrives (enabling me to use Tilt/Shift lenses) I'll take the Epic out on a still only shoot and am anxious to see the results of that.

Meidum Format Digital Back... Big

P65.jpg



Red One... Big

RedOne.jpg


Looking back, I think the Red One Sample could use a hair more Red in the grading. Also notice how my Cooke Panchro/i 18mm (Red One) has way less falloff than my Schneider 35mmXL (MFDB).


Cheers,
CB

Thanks for that Chris,
just one last question...Have You tested new Leica S2 with new CS glass?
regards
jiri
 
Quick note on the stobe/continuous sync feature:

Since a big advantage of strobes is large volume of light out of a small package with little power, how can we get this with LEDs and small power packs? No doubt we're moving the direction of continuous lighting for DSMC, is there going to be a feature that starts the lighting system when the camera is recording only? This would save power and allow on-location shoots to carry small packs.

Unless I am grossly underestimating the power savings of LED continuous lighting, this seems like it would be a big help. Thoughts?

A Xenon flash tube releases all its energy in a very short time. One Megawatt for one microsecond per frame has the same illuminating effect as just one Watt applied to continuously the scene. Although this can be handy for "freezing" a moving object, Xenon flashguns were never intentionally designed for this, it's just a by-product of the way they work.

50 Watts from an LED source applied for about 20 milliseconds (the exposure time for 24fps with an 180 degree shutter) will give about the same amount of light energy on the sensor, but spread over the entire frame, and so avoid the rolling shutter problems.
 
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My buddies, Peter Lik and Mick, had just opened up their EPIC-M package and took it into the parking lot to do some testing and get familiar with the camera. They started rolling when the storm hit and it only took a few seconds to capture this. A 5K lightening strike still. Try that with a DSLR. :-)

Jim

1317775674.jpg
 
Cool!! Yeah, you'd have to have the luckiest trigger finger in the West to get a shot like that with a DSLR.
 
Very cool
My buddies, Peter Lik and Mick, had just opened up their EPIC-M package and took it into the parking lot to do some testing and get familiar with the camera. They started rolling when the storm hit and it only took a few seconds to capture this. A 5K lightening strike still. Try that with a DSLR. :-)

Jim

1317775674.jpg
 
Whoa that's nice.
 
Projecting the lightening strike at 4k has got to be insanely cool. After watching the 4k projection of a CU on a candle and a taser shot at 5k last week at Reducation, it's like looking at life through a microscope. There is so much detail you just stare at these images like it's a painting. Making the ordinary, Extraordinary.
 
My buddies, Peter Lik and Mick, had just opened up their EPIC-M package and took it into the parking lot to do some testing and get familiar with the camera. They started rolling when the storm hit and it only took a few seconds to capture this. A 5K lightening strike still. Try that with a DSLR. :-)

Jim

1317775674.jpg

Fair Enough,
but he prefers this:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/siboma2009/4252826777/

:yikes:
 
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I would suggest looking at fellow Reduser and Epic M owner Mark Fischer posted footage of the Hong-Kong Chinese national day fireworks (he created a thread for that here). You can see the potential for tourism promotional photography with that shoot. He can literally just grab the best frame of the fireworks if he chooses for print material, while keeping the rest of the footage for promotional purposes... Simply incredible!

http://reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?64199-Hong-Kong-National-Day-Fireworks-EPIC
 
It would be pretty cool if you could just export a panoramic photo by just panning the camera at 24 fps and then selecting the start and stop points you want.
 
My buddies, Peter Lik and Mick, had just opened up their EPIC-M package and took it into the parking lot to do some testing and get familiar with the camera. They started rolling when the storm hit and it only took a few seconds to capture this. A 5K lightening strike still. Try that with a DSLR. :-)

Jim

1317775674.jpg

Now that’s what I’m talking about …

So that’s the M bit making a really good S of the DSMC,

In day light you can’t leave the shutter open for extended periods of time to capture a thunderbolt…as you would at night time (as on a conventional stills camera). That’s a great example.

Thanks for that...

Eric

BTW it’s virtually impossible to capture a thunderbolt by randomly depressing the shutter, some folks use light triggered special equipment, but daylight snooker’s that situation too.
 
Powerful (tint corrected) LEDs are coming... and cheap.

Jim

You wouldn't care to ballpark a time frame would you (i.e. by this time next year)?

I've been looking at LED lighting to accompany my Scarlet purchase and FloLight currently seems to be the frontrunner as far as price/performance/availability goes.

I'm not positive but I think they may require a bit of gelling to compensate for a slight green cast. It's not a big deal but it would be nice to have tint corrected LEDs to start with.

Does anyone know if the Litepanels 1x1s or LEDZ Brute lights require the same type of 1/4 minus green filtering as some of the more affordable brands?
 
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but Red looks like it handles the highlights in the window and the lamp better.
 
I remember this being one of the first things I wanted to try with the Red One, original sensor running at 90FPS in 2k. The rolling shutter artifact didn't make for sweet slow motion lightning strikes, but was able to pull some neat lightning stills.

lightning1.jpg

lightning2.jpg

lightning3.jpg


cheers
Colin
 
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