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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

DJI Wireless Follow Focus - 1st Impression

I used to have a redrock then sold it and bought an RT motion. The expensive stuff hurts, but buy once cry once.
 
Check out the most recent post, #237 on the Tilta Gravity Group Buy Thread. There is something new/ long anticipated in the air.
 
Hi
We tested it last Sunday while a packshot shooting.contax had lot of lens breathing so we finally changed the lens.
We have tested the dji 3 timed for the moment and I am very happy with it
 
I want it to be my next purchase but I was just wondering what the limitations and quirks and issues with it are, except for Tommaso who had a terrible experience with it :)

Hard to find reviews from sources I actually trust.
 
Ben, it's really simple.

Reliability aside (4 units were currently in RMA at the dealer where I bought mine...FYI...), it's NOT precise enough for still lenses.

Again, maybe I'm really spoiled by the accuracy of my RTMotion MK3.1 once perfectly calibrated (which is a form of art almost...).

Maybe I was aiming too high.

Because you know...when you're shooting with a WA up close...maybe with a still lens even...
(it happens sometimes he he...especially with jobs where you find this follow focus...)...
and you're working in 2-3 degrees of rotation...well...you'll curse yourself to have bought it.

If you use it with S4/i sets...then the problem becomes thinner and thinner...BUT in these kind of jobs you'll have money to rent a better unit anyway.

Once I'll get it back and if I'll have both WFF kits available I'll even try to do a comparison...DJI said 1-2 months for the repair...
so you'll probably be focusing with sonar based mind-controlled laser beams powered focus thingy by then.

And with grey hairs. Ha!

My 2cents.
 
For the price point and functionality the DJI just can't be beat. It's a low cost item. It will not preform reliably like a Preston, Arri, or CMotion unit. That being said I've used it with Alexas and Dragons, S4s, Panny Primos, Master Primes, etc and it works very, very well. Honestly I prefer using the DJI on a small hand-held setup as it keeps the camera uber tiny without having to attach and power a MDR unit.
 
Adrian Jebef said:
It will not preform reliably like a Preston, Arri, or CMotion unit.
Click to expand...

Why is that? I have had 2 units since it came out and they have been reliable. The difference with these higher priced units is the features that they have and the DJI doesn't.
 
Tommaso Alvisi said:
If you use it with S4/i sets...then the problem becomes thinner and thinner...BUT in these kind of jobs you'll have money to rent a better unit anyway.
Click to expand...

Adrian Jebef said:
I've used it with Alexas and Dragons, S4s, Panny Primos, Master Primes, etc and it works very, very well.
Click to expand...

Daniel Stilling said:
Why is that? I have had 2 units since it came out and they have been reliable.
Click to expand...

Exactly, S4/i, UP, MP, 'lux & 'cron -Cs, Angie zooms, with all of these it will perform somewhat *fine*.

Barrel stability from the mount to the tip of the lens, resistance to torsion, HARD stops (not "hard"), and especially the expanded 300° rotation, etc, this is EASY.

BUT try it on a still photo lens, then try the same thing with an RTMotion.

There's a HUGE difference, and I tried MULTIPLE units of the DJI.

BTW Ben will be using this WFF with still photo lenses...
 
Tommaso Alvisi said:
Exactly, S4/i, UP, MP, 'lux & 'cron -Cs, Angie zooms, with all of these it will perform somewhat *fine*.

Barrel stability from the mount to the tip of the lens, resistance to torsion, HARD stops (not "hard"), and especially the expanded 300° rotation, etc, this is EASY.

BUT try it on a still photo lens, then try the same thing with an RTMotion.

There's a HUGE difference, and I tried MULTIPLE units of the DJI.

BTW Ben will be using this WFF with still photo lenses...
Click to expand...

What do you mean the RT motion does to a still lens that DJI don't? The DJI unit is as I see it 100% accurate and there is absolutely no play, so what more is it to ask for?
 
Björn Benckert said:
What do you mean the RT motion does to a still lens that DJI don't? The DJI unit is as I see it 100% accurate and there is absolutely no play, so what more is it to ask for?
Click to expand...

+1.

Mine has been excellent.
 
Björn Benckert said:
What do you mean the RT motion does to a still lens that DJI don't? The DJI unit is as I see it 100% accurate and there is absolutely no play, so what more is it to ask for?
Click to expand...

Accuracy with lenses with a shorter focus throw.

Better handling of "uncertain" end stops (old still photo lenses mainly which have a tiny play in the barrel/helicoid).

These motors even at their lowest torque setting abuse the barrels/helicoids of the still photo lenses.

RTMotion have a compensation algorithm which works far better.
 
Tommaso Alvisi said:
Exactly, S4/i, UP, MP, 'lux & 'cron -Cs, Angie zooms, with all of these it will perform somewhat *fine*.

Barrel stability from the mount to the tip of the lens, resistance to torsion, HARD stops (not "hard"), and especially the expanded 300° rotation, etc, this is EASY.

BUT try it on a still photo lens, then try the same thing with an RTMotion.

There's a HUGE difference, and I tried MULTIPLE units of the DJI.

BTW Ben will be using this WFF with still photo lenses...
Click to expand...


Yep mostly Otus / Milvus / Contax
 
With OTUS and Milvus you'll be fine (maybe you'll struggle a little with the 28mm @ 1.4 OTUS and with the wider Mulvuses in some instances).

Reliability remains a concern tho.

Hope it helps!
 
Yeah, try it if you can!

So you'll feel how heavy is the hand controller too...

Hint: unnecessarily heavy...I bet there's some weights inside...I'm not kidding, it's unreal...

RTMotion is much more evolved and weight much, much less...same goes for BarTech and Chrosziel, etc etc...

and don't tell me it's because DJI can't afford lower weights alloys...
they can and the difference is not from a cheaper ALU vs a more expensive one...
there are some friggin' weights insideeeeee I tell 'ya

:shocked:
 
Tommaso Alvisi said:
So you'll feel how heavy is the hand controller too...

Hint: unnecessarily heavy...I bet there's some weights inside...I'm not kidding, it's unreal...

RTMotion is much more evolved and weight much, much less...same goes for BarTech and Chrosziel, etc etc...

:shocked:
Click to expand...

Not going to defend DJI on reliability or customer service as their products have been known to go out and terrible CS. My DJI FF works great for now, but always a bit nervous because of their track record.

in regard to the hand controller, it's beefy, but it feels good to me. It weights 1.6lbs, which in the scheme of camera gear, is light. I'm not particularly strong, but I have no problem holding mine all day.

if you have the cash, get RT Motion. If you can't afford that, DJI FF is a viable option.
 
Tommaso Alvisi said:
Accuracy with lenses with a shorter focus throw.

Better handling of "uncertain" end stops (old still photo lenses mainly which have a tiny play in the barrel/helicoid).

These motors even at their lowest torque setting abuse the barrels/helicoids of the still photo lenses.

RTMotion have a compensation algorithm which works far better.
Click to expand...

Ok, so how can it be more accurate? To me DJI is as accurate as accurate can be, like the most expansive ARRI kind of accurate.

If you are afraid to ruin your lenses by hitting the end stops with to much torque you can simply set the endstops manually on the DJI. But yes I even think that hitting the end stops hard on shitty still lenses is just a question of time before the barrel and mount starts to get damaged and possibly your RT motion has some sort of silky gloves programed in to it but we been using FD lenses and DJI focus quite a bit without having any of the issues you are mentioning. And if there is a play in the endstop I doubt that hitting them will be accurate no matter how you do then setting the calibration by eye on the mark seams to me be the only way no matter what lens.
 
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