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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

DJI Ronin

Jonathan S Strauss said:
To make it clear we aren't a DJI authorized distributor we purchased it through Ariel however we have shown interest in distributing for them and distribute for many other related companies/products (blackmagic,woodencam, etc)

I'll let your know how the support progress goes. The build quality of the Ronin is incredible and a great value and hopefully with this products incredible initial success propels them to train a knowledgeable support staff. It just is unfortunate we are going to have to rent a MOVI this weekend instead of getting to use our Ronin which arrived a week ago.
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Your first point of contact with such issues should be the dealer you have purchased this from (after you have red the manual front to back and you are sure the issue is not addressed in the manual).
DJI will be launching the new PRO SUPPORT the following Monday.

In the meantime if your reseller is not able to help - feel free to reach out to me at peter(at)derylgroup(dot)com.
I can also provide you with my phone number and Skype ID if you need some more interactive support.
Please bare in mind that I am not DJI's employee and that I am working independent professional just like you guys - so I might not be able to reply immediately or answer the phone right away.
Also I am based in Tokyo - Japan, so please check the local time difference...

I will get back to you ASAP... ASAP = as soon as possible (many people think ASAP stands for "right away" or "within an hour") ;o)

Peter
 
Greg M said:
Why couldn't the power cable run thru the arms and under the camera just like its supplied to the motors?
Then we could have one larger battery capable of powering everything. Having multiple batteries to deal with doesn't make sense to me.

Regarding losing power mid flight...well that can happen regardless of how many batteries you have and if you don't know the consequences, then you shouldn't be operating.
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Greg - the camera needs more AMPs = thicker cable. Thicker cable will affect the operation of the gimbal. You could only do this by redesigning the product to include various independent slip-rings to pass through three separate "packets" - precisely regulated power to the motors, data from/to the IMU and other sensors (which now also passes just enough power for the accessories) and the high-amp power for the camera. This is not a trivial / easy modification that you may think it is...

By all means go ahead and use the RED belt clip and run the power cable along the handles all the way to the back of the Ronin - or even the handlebar itself - and see how that affects your ability to operate the gimbal... ;o)

:sifone: Peter
 
Peter Majtan said:
Greg - the camera needs more AMPs = thicker cable. Thicker cable will affect the operation of the gimbal. You could only do this by redesigning the product to include various independent slip-rings to pass through three separate "packets" - precisely regulated power to the motors, data from/to the IMU and other sensors (which now also passes just enough power for the accessories) and the high-amp power for the camera. This is not a trivial / easy modification that you may think it is...

By all means go ahead and use the RED belt clip and run the power cable along the handles all the way to the back of the Ronin - or even the handlebar itself - and see how that affects your ability to operate the gimbal... ;o)

:sifone: Peter
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Yes Peter, I understand that the cable has to be thicker and I have no desire to use a belt pack..Thanks though. My question was regarding the initial design...I wonder why they didn't consider this from the beginning? Its not designed for the GH4...its designed for 12-16lb cameras.
 
Phil Holland said:
Hi Willis,

I have a project coming up later this month and it's likely going to be the thing to get me to pick up a Ronin.

Question though. Is there a way/what is the best way to securing attach the Ronin to a 100mm ballhead?

Thank you sir.
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I have a prototype of exactly such a mount that I will be offering for sale towards end of this month, early next - so not likely in time for your project Phil. I will be releasing info and tentative pricing around middle of this month.
Please do not push me for earlier release of info / sneak peaks / etc - I have learned from some of the grub buy threads in here about releasing any such an info BEFORE the product is actually ready for the prime time... ;o)

You should have my email Phil - so send me more details about your project - especially the schedule - and I will see if anything can be done...

Cheers

:sifone: Peter
 
Greg M said:
Yes Peter, I understand that the cable has to be thicker and I have no desire to use a belt pack..Thanks though. My question was regarding the initial design...I wonder why they didn't consider this from the beginning? Its not designed for the GH4...its designed for 12-16lb cameras.
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Yes, exactly. Unlike the GH4's, 5D's, etc - which feature their own internal batteries - the larger pro cameras have usually various external power solutions and each customer have their own preferred one.
Also - unlike those smaller cameras - these larger ones do require a lot more current to run.
It is one thing to make slip-rings for GH4 and it is completely different thing to do this for RED.
I understand that there are many who would prefer to be able to power up the camera directly from the gimbal's battery. Helix offers this.
But look at MOVI - they have also chosen to power the RED from its own V-lock.
FREEFLY has years of experience with gimbals - DJI even more so... There is reason why both of these have chosen this particular design.
The best hint I can give you is that the control boards that power up the motors can be affected by something else (like RED) drawing massive currents though the same power source.
Lot of the initial AlexMos boards had this exact problem even with just trying to drive larger motors - let alone power up a camera.
If there is large enough demand - DJI (or some third party like myself) might consider making a modification (or a completely new version) of the Ronin to allow for this...

:sifone: Peter
 
Just FYI...:

The P-Taps on the Ronin can provide maximum of 3 Amps draw at 12.8V combined between the two ports - this is clearly engraved on the power-breakout box bellow the ports. RED draws 60W on average - that translates to 4.68 Amps - and this current can and does get higher in certain circumstances (high-speed, HDRx, hot ambient temperature, etc...). This is over 50% more that what the cabling on the Ronin can handle safely - and this does not account for all the other accessories you will need. Once you add wireless FIZ and video - you will need 7+ Amps - more then double of the safe limit. You will most likely end up burring up the cables / electronics. Don't say you have not been warned...

The 5V USB port is limited to 500 mW - or 0.1 Amps - the industrial standard for USB connections. This is perfectly matched for the Paralinx Arrow / Arrow+ in case you are wondering...

:sifone: Peter
 
Great stuff Peter - and like you, I am willing to help the community out here (within reason) with any kind of general troubleshooting, assistance or help.

I do this because I really enjoy providing greater access and understanding of technologies that help us make great films.
 
Dan Kanes said:
Great stuff Peter - and like you, I am willing to help the community out here (within reason) with any kind of general troubleshooting, assistance or help.

I do this because I really enjoy providing greater access and understanding of technologies that help us make great films.
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Dan, what you guys at Paralinx - and you in particular - do for this community is unprecedented and very much appreciated. Most people might not realize what it takes to run a company like Paralinx and to still have the time to help out the way you do...

Thank you!

Peter
 
Peter Majtan said:
First of - the voltage in the P-taps is 12.8V - which is enough to power the camera. This is not the reason why we can't do it.
The reason is the power draw (amps) - which is also related to the thickness of the cables running the power.
The current cable is designed to cary data information and only enough power that the cable can safely provide without overheating / melting.
THIS is why you can't run the camera from the Ronin's battery.
Just look at all the various power cables for the RED - how thick they are. Such a thick cable will drastically affect the balance of the gimbal and prevent it from operating the way is meant to.
If you wan to power the camera from the Ronin battery - this would require product redesign with so called "slip-rings" instead of direct power cable...

So - in conclusion - Ronin as it is will not allow to power the RED directly from its (Ronin's) battery.

Various people have their own preferences. I find this approach safer as the camera can run out of its power and the gimbal will still stabilise it.
If you were in remote scenario (let say using the Ronin on helicopter, car, boat, etc...) and the camera was powered from the Ronin and drain the power to shut down - the gimbal will stop stabilising and the camera could start spinning violently depending on wind, motion of the rig at that time and other factors (how well it was balanced), etc...
Even if you were hand-holding the rig and the Ronin would suddenly power down - it won't be pretty for the very same reason...

:sifone: Peter
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Sorry I got that confused. Thanks for clearing it up!
 
Tyler Dreher said:
Sorry I got that confused. Thanks for clearing it up!
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No worries Tyler.

What folks need to realise is that we need to power the accessories as well. Your average FIZ may draw around 2 Amps on its own - depending on how strong its motors are and how many are you using. Add to the mix the wireless HD and possibly wireless TC (for larger productions) and your accessories alone will saturate the 3 Amps supplied on the Ronin's P-Taps (combined). RED on its own needs 4.6 Amps plus to run and when you want to shoot high-speed, or in hot environment, etc... - it can draw more. It would be easy to melt the cable and burn the electronics. Things might work when you turn them on, but you need to be able to sustain hours of operating the gear under such a power draw. This is why MOVI and RONIN do not power the cameras directly from the gimbal's battery...

:sifone: Peter
 
I got to try the DJI Ronin with the Epic-X and it performed quite well considering that weight is almost at it's maximum. Though, two things... we couldn't adjust the controller to pan/tilt the camera faster. The speed was too slow to be able to accurately control the camera. Second was that the handles feel very unstable. Whenever I tilted the camera down the handles would nudge out of place. The screws holding them felt too loose for work with the Epic's weight. However tight we tried making it, it never held for a tilt. They need to be able to be hold solid to the rig. Maybe have holes so they never glide out of place.
 
Christoffer Glans said:
I got to try the DJI Ronin with the Epic-X and it performed quite well considering that weight is almost at it's maximum. Though, two things... we couldn't adjust the controller to pan/tilt the camera faster. The speed was too slow to be able to accurately control the camera. Second was that the handles feel very unstable. Whenever I tilted the camera down the handles would nudge out of place. The screws holding them felt too loose for work with the Epic's weight. However tight we tried making it, it never held for a tilt. They need to be able to be hold solid to the rig. Maybe have holes so they never glide out of place.
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Chris - both of your issues have solutions...

About the remote controller - you need to learn and understand all the various settings. The one in particular is the "max speed" setting with limits the maximum speed of the gimbal. Just increase this to full 100 and you will be on your way slapping your AC with the Ronin before he can duck... ;o)

The handles - note that you have both the wing-nuts and inside them there are alan (hex) bolts. For the heavier setups you need to tighten the handles with the respective alan key. They will not budge - I have turned upside-down the 12 kg setup without any problems...

:sifone: Peter
 
Just a quick test with my Ronin & Scarlet on a friends cablecam rig :) Was also tested with a BMCC

(btw that's not me operating, I'm the one filming)
 
James Peach said:
What battery options to power the RED are there that will work with the Ronin?


I was looking at getting the REDVOLT XL MODULE. Cant tell if theres room for this?


Then I see most pics of the Ronin or other gimbals there using the side mount V not sure if its the freely mouthing kit.


And I have seen few have a long cable and battery on there belt.


If the best is the side mount what size is been working best?

I see few people talking about XL arms, is there more info about them and what more are using them for or there needs for them are?



Thanks
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Any help with this or who could help?
 
James Peach said:
Any help with this or who could help?
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James, this has been already answered - few times actually.

As of now if you want something that just works, you have two options:

A. REDVOLT in SIDE HANDLE - only downside is that you need to move the camera to the side for changing the battery, but if you mark the balance position - this only takes less then a minute after little practice.
B. The FREEFLY side V-lock mount combined with the IDX E-7s batteries

You might be able to use the rear-mounted V-lock with the E-7s - but you need to check your configuration and lens options. (See post # 256 above from JC showing similar setup)
Once the longer arm accessory is available (still no ETA) - more options will open up.
I am also going to announce a new V-lock solution (that also deals with three other features) in 10~14 days with expected shipping of the first units towards end of the month, or early next...

:sifone: Peter
 
Peter Majtan said:
James, this has been already answered - few times actually.

As of now if you want something that just works, you have two options:

A. REDVOLT in SIDE HANDLE - only downside is that you need to move the camera to the side for changing the battery, but if you mark the balance position - this only takes less then a minute after little practice.
B. The FREEFLY side V-lock mount combined with the IDX E-7s batteries

You might be able to use the rear-mounted V-lock with the E-7s - but you need to check your configuration and lens options. (See post # 256 above from JC showing similar setup)
Once the longer arm accessory is available (still no ETA) - more options will open up.
I am also going to announce a new V-lock solution (that also deals with three other features) in 10~14 days with expected shipping of the first units towards end of the month, or early next...

:sifone: Peter
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Thanks for the info,
I was trying to look for be four asking and did not see any one talking about it.
Must have looked over it trying to skim thru every thing.

I see the 256 post after I posted.
Seeing how deep it is makes me think the Redvolt XL will work. Just not with a heavy lens.
The Larger arms will help a lot, hope they come soon.

Im glad I have a large DJI delar only 20min a way from me.
Other day they let me try it out with my epic. I liked the Ronin a lot, it works so much batter then others I have and or have used.
 
Peter Majtan said:
I am also going to announce a new V-lock solution (that also deals with three other features) in 10~14 days with expected shipping of the first units towards end of the month, or early next...

:sifone: Peter
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peter, as the dji ronin dealer of the benelux, i am very interested in you solutions. would you get in touch with me to see what we can do for each other? please contact me on vincent@droneland.nl . thanks in advance, we are very curious;)
 
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